TTY head bolts with engine in-vehicle

[strutaeng]

I finally finished cleaning the pistons!

Today I washed the block. Soapy water, brush cleaning kit, then dried immediately with compressed air and sprayed it with PB Blaster.

I decided to do a quick paint with Rust-Oleum, paintbrush special.

I also realized one of my motor mounts is broken! The rubber block on side side of those clamshells is missing. Doh!

 

[strutaeng]

More progress. Changed the cam bearings. The replacement bearings are wider, supposed to be a good thing. I'd bought the Summit Racing dedicated LS cam installing tool. This my second time using it, and it's pretty good, I think. Installed the cam (Summit SUM-8718R1)

Also washed the crank, checked the main bearing clearance with plastiguage. I only checked the 1 & 2 rods with plastiguage since everything was looking pretty consistent.

Installed piston/rings. I decided to buy a fixed ring compressor and I liked it much better that the other engine I put together with the adjustable type. Definitely recommend it. Only bad thing is you need one for each specific bore.

 

[strutaeng]

Next is the oil pump. I was gonna just slap it back in...then decided to clean just the outside and next thing you know, I completely disassembled it, LoL.

The pump gears looked excellent after cleaning. Also cleaned the timing chain and installed it. I need a pickup tube o-ring. I'll get one from the local parts store tomorrow.

 

[strutaeng]

No real update. 2 years ago when I replaced my oil pan gasket I accidentally sheared off one of the little baffle bolts (thought it was also 18 lb-ft torque! Doh!) So I got to fix my mistake yesterday by drilling out the bolt and removing it with a spiral extractor. I got the bolt replaced.

I was planning on reusing that oil pan gasket but saw that it was torn at like 2 corners.

I went to Summit Racing to get some break-in oil, a new gasket and bought this "Boom Mat" spray-on damping stuff in an aerosol can. I'm going to try spraying the fiberglass firewall with it. I kinda hate how it looks and all the dust and itching it causes if you are working near it. I don't know if that's going to work? I'll wash the engine bay before dropping in the engine.

I also picked up a pair of engine mounts. Local guy on FBMP had them listed taking offers. When I showed up he said I could have them free. Just painted them up 'cause that makes me feel better, LOL

 

[strutaeng]

I got the covers installed: rear, front and oil pan.

I dropped in the lifters and trays.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll install the heads and miscellaneous sensors.

 

[strutaeng]

I had some remachined 317 heads for another engine I'm building but don't really have a truck in mind for it. So they get installed here.

Water pump and miscellaneous sensors go back. I broke the ECT, so I got a replacement.

I cleaned my intake...damn, what a mess!

Note that service manual is for the first design head bolts; I found a handy TTY spec/cheat sheet that has both: https://help.summitracing.com/knowledgebase/article/SR-05187/en-us

 

[Mudsport96]

...well, engine is coming out...

The cam looked okay, only very small wear. But cam bearings don't look too good. I guess that's normal wear and tear for 262k.

This is why the number one rule is don't look at the cam bearings..

 

[strutaeng]

This is why the number one rule is don't look at the cam bearings..

Yes, exactly what my buddy told me! LoL

Oh well. Live and learn.

 

[ivin74]

For Torque To Yield, once you get them all torqued to 22 ft-lb, you can put the torque wrench away and use a ratchet with a cheater pipe or a breaker bar since you are looking at degrees of turn, not torque.

ARP hardware is also a good option.

I used arp hardware, the arp bolts get tighten with a torque wrench.


The ARPs are three pass in the stock procedure. First pass is 30-35lbs, second is 50-55lbs, and the final pass is 70-75lbs for the large bolts, 25lbs for the small bolts if I recall correctly.

 

[ivin74]

ARP hardware is worth it in my opinion and it’s a lot simpler to just tighten the shit out of them vs the stock bolts where you have to tty and go through that bs plus you can reuse arp stock is usually one and done as the bolt stretches out

I've have also used oem bolts and tighten the bolts as if they were arp bolts and have not had one to fail yet.