Torque Converter Bolt help

[RoadTrip]

I use a long nose vice grips on badly damaged, hard to reach bolts like this one. As stated above, the heat-then-chill method will help prep the bolt for cooperation. Definitely would have to lock the flywheel though.

 

[lspann3525]

the bolt is so close its hard to get a good hit on the bolt extractor socket. this pic was also before the weld

 

[lspann3525]

was able to remove the welding the guy did plus a little more of the bolt using air die grinder I have about an half inch left. didnt get to use the expensive hf burrs..just using some stones my dad brought over. I should have the bolt grinded down in the next day or so.

 

[j91z28d1]

I must have miss read. I thought you were putting it back together and got it cross threaded and were trying to take it back out.


if it was just Loctite, welding on it should have softened it same as a torch.

 

[alvocado]

Was this bolt factory installed or has it been out before? Puzzling that it’s this hard to remove unless someone cross threaded previously.

 

[lspann3525]

the guy who did the welding used a stick welder

the bolts have been removed before. when reassembled the first time they went in easy I was thinking I used too much loc tite..the other 2 bolts the threadlocker was hard as cement

 

[blondie70]

Red Locktite?

 

[lspann3525]

Finally got the head of the bolt off.

 

[alvocado]

Nice work. That had to be a bear grinding through that tight area.

 

[lspann3525]

defintely was but after a while youll get use to it. Now I need to extract the threads from the torque converter. tried using my heat gun and a pair of pliers it still didnt bulge. Tomorrow im going to try a torch, or have someone weld a nut on to it or drill thru it with the smallest bit possible

 

[lspann3525]

was able to get the broken bolt out of the torque converter with a torch damn locktite turned into cement

 

[Fless]

was able to get the broken bolt out of the torque converter with a torch damn locktite turned into cement

Hence the name...

 

[lspann3525]

Replaced my rear main seal with Fel-pro bs 40640 rear seal with dorman cover. No leaks from the back so far but I do have a leak from the timing cover area thats dripping down on the rack and pinion..how hard is the front timing cover seal...is it removing the water pump and harmonic balancer?

 

[rdezs]

Yes. Balancer and water pump removed, you can then remove the front cover. ("While you are in there" comes up of course. Oil pump, timing chain set, tensioner. Camshaft sensor. VVT solenoid and actuator for VVT engines)

 

[donjetman]

.is it removing the water pump and harmonic balancer?

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/valley-cover-crank-pulley-etc.149036/

 

[SpareParts]

Here is a post that will help if you go that far. Post #60

OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.

She will never notice a thing probably. I plan on disabling AFM with HPTuners. Just have not done it yet. It is a 2014 with 130K so i need to do it soonish i spose.

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[lspann3525]

thanks..as for a removing the balancer just a regular 3 jaw puller??? and im assuming I will need newbolt and a installer bolt?

 

[donjetman]

thanks..as for a removing the balancer just a regular 3 jaw puller??? and im assuming I will need newbolt and a installer bolt?

amazon is your friend

 

[donjetman]

I'm currently doing a afm delete w/Truck Norris cam swap on the 2008 gen4 LY5 5.3 in my 51 Chevy 5 window PU. The afm was tuned OFF long ago, but I want the hardware out and a lopey idle. Engine only has 11k miles since new.

 

[solli5pack]

thanks..as for a removing the balancer just a regular 3 jaw puller??? and im assuming I will need newbolt and a installer bolt?