Jelly, luv it
Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"
- Thread starter Rocket Man
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Glad you decided against the black handles.
OP
OP
Thank you.
Came to my senses. Turns out the glossy ones were the correct ones to ptm.
OP
OP
Well good news part 2; besides the paint being rescued, when I brought it home yesterday the TPMS was disabled again so no warning light. Se weird. It must have something to do with the driver door switch being removed and reinstalled. They did that when installing new handles, maybe with the battery disconnected IDK. I heard that's where the TPMS resides, in fact with the Tech 2 that's the menu where I can access that function. so weird though. The P2270 (bank 1 sensor 2 stuck lean/ biased lean) came back again so it looks like I'll be installing that O2 sensor I bought after all and see if that fixes it. I checked for bad wiring/ corrosion or an exhaust leak last week and didn't find any so hopefully it's just a sensor. Happy about the TPMS though, glad I didn't order sensors and start building my PVC pressure tube like I almost did. Damn, hope I didn't just jinx myself. I did drive it out to dinner last night though so It's been on 2 short trips so far and no light.
iamdub
Full Access Member
This narrows it down a bit. You were playing with the fuses, they had the battery disconnected, the door switch was involved in both instances (right?)...
What's the details of the driver's door switch? You replaced it? And was it around the time you were pulling fuses? I'm trying to find a common point in all of this to see if we can find exactly what happened and if it can be replicated. You may have stumbled upon some sort of "loophole" way to disable the system.
OP
OP
Yes I replaced it. And it was around the same time I was pulling fuses, or I may have had the battery disconnected when I did it. The body shop also disconnected it when they did the cut and buff since they pulled the door handles, and I noticed my radio presets were gone so they must have disconnected the battery again, as I'm pretty sure they did the last time it was in although that time AFAIK they didn't disconnect the switches.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I wonder if the window switch and BCM modules involve some sort of data handshake when it's first powered up. I guess I could disconnect the window module, then the battery, reconnect the battery, then the module and see what happens. Now'd be the time for me to do it before I set up my HU.
I've never dug into the doors, where's the module located? Or it it under the switch panel?
OP
OP
I thought it IS the switch itself but I just went into the menu on the Tech 2 and it's under "remote control door receiver module" so now I'm not sure. I heard somewhere, I swear, that it has to do with the driver door switch module or it's part of that module.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I've been Googling around and I think it may be built into that switch. The window switch panel just pops out so I'm gonna play with it and report back. I may open it up and look for an antenna circuit. I just hope I don't wipe out my RKE functions.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
The TPMS receiver and Remote door lock/remote start receiver are one in the same and it is located in the drivers rear quarter panel by the power lift gate motor on the SUVs... not sure about the pickups... Just FYI.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Talking about the power door lock/window switches... I do have a question.
What's up with the extra plugs that are empty???
I have an LTZ with every option I am aware of except air conditioned seats which wasn't available until 2009.
I don't remember how many empty spots it has but I do remember thinking that there must be other things that will plug in to the back of the switch housing/door module.
I have power DL, power windows, power mirrors, heated mirrors, power folding mirrors, heated seats and still have extra spots.
What's up with the extra plugs that are empty???
I have an LTZ with every option I am aware of except air conditioned seats which wasn't available until 2009.
I don't remember how many empty spots it has but I do remember thinking that there must be other things that will plug in to the back of the switch housing/door module.
I have power DL, power windows, power mirrors, heated mirrors, power folding mirrors, heated seats and still have extra spots.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Whale, this may have worked. I popped the window switch panel out and unplugged everything except the plug with the big power wires at the rearmost of the panel. Then I turned the key on for about 10 seconds. I don't know if this did anything but I figured it would help whatever modules lose their handshake if there is any. I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes, reconnected it, turned the key on then plugged everything back in. The "Service TPMS System" and warning light did not come back when I turned the key on to test the windows, locks, mirrors, key fob, etc. I started it- still no warnings. Went for a drive for at least 5 miles- no warnings. I'll give it some time with more drive cycles to verify.
OP
OP
I’m not sure but I do know it’s a hassle in the NNBS to add options that weren’t installed at the factory. The wiring harness and switch panels need to be swapped as well as a dealer flash of the bcm.
It would be sweet if we did stumble on a way to disable it. People have been trying forever to do that.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Yes! I'm not gonna call it confirmed until further testing, but it's looking good so far!
OP
OP
I got the 50” bar today. Just messing around a bit with it, trying to figure out how to mount it. I pretty much decided the upper area is going to be a panel; the 26” bar just won’t look right there. I ordered a billet grill that is made for that area and plan on modifying it to a black textured panel or similar. I’ll also trim out the lower opening with that same material around the light bar. A local plastics shop has the material in many thicknesses and any size up to 48 x 60.
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Just as a precaution, I'd run a thin bead of silicone around those light bars, just like the aftermarket lights. I've seen tons of those led bars with moisture and water in them--which eventually kills alot of the leds.
OP
OP
Got the first bracket done. This mofo is stout. That ***** 1/4” steel, not aluminum.
OP
OP
Brackets both done, light test mounted. I'm trimming up the ends of the brackets and painting them now. There's a couple of tabs on the bumper at the top of the light that I just trimmed off that will allow me to adjust it up a tad more. This light is mounted solid.
OP
OP
The curve is close to perfect, even the bottom as it sits on the ground as the truck is aired out. I will adjust the angle of the light bar after installing the bumper. The top area between the bumper and light will get a black textured 3/16" thick ABS piece that I will cut to fit and mount with the 4 bolts that are there. That will fill the gap and make it look finished off.
