OK, Bought a 07 with a couple problems today.

[SpareParts]

I think what happened is. I was driving down the trail and hit a hole in the road that was hidden by weeds and naturally the strut pushed the wheel down to full extension before hitting the ground again.
Because the RC upper control arm did not hit the bump stop i think the spring pressure slamming down damaged the threads.
It took about 5 minutes before i could tell anything was wrong but by then it was too late anyway.
I don't know if it's normal or not but with the RC upper control arm it lets the suspension hang down about an inch below the strut then comes in contact with the bump stop when the lower strut is unbolted.
I think i need to get new upper control arms. I think the suspension should hit the bump stop before the strut bottoms out.

 

[SpareParts]

Continuing with my replacement engine i finally have the cam back in it and a new Melling timing chain, cam phaser, GM actuator bolt and Dorman tensioner.
I thought about doing a VVT delete but decided against it. For one, I'm not out for all out performance and the VVT is not a bad thing for my situation. 99% of the time just normal everyday driving.
My stock cam is fine and with new cam bearings i should not have any problems for a long time + saving the cost of a new cam and a tune saves around 1K.
I will be getting a BB tune after i install this engine. BB is only about 40 miles from me.

 

[SpareParts]

Debating on what oil pan to use. I have read a lot about that valve.
Most people say it's there for AFM and really has nothing to do with VVT as some engines with VVT did not have the valve.
Seems there is not a definitive answer when keeping VVT.

 

[rdezs]

It's strictly to protect the solenoids in the AFM system. More than 60 PSI destroys them. Without AFM just plug it.

 

[rdezs]

Keep in mind the VVT requires oil pressure and volume, so GM had to create a sort of balancing act to serve both functions. Your VVT will be happier with all the oil pressure and volume you can give it.

 

[SpareParts]

I did read that it is to protect the AFM stuff. When the solenoids close there is a pressure surge and the valve fixes that.
I think im putting it back together with the stock oil pump and no valve.

 

[SpareParts]

Cleans up nice.

 

[rdezs]

Looks good!
Grab yourself one of the oil pick up tube girdles that uses both holes in the oil pump. Under $20.

 

[rdezs]

These are the ones I use. Perfect fit every time.

Z Whip Oil Pump https://a.co/d/f1qkKrd

 

[SpareParts]

I used a washer headed bolt on the non bolt side. Works just as good i think.

 

[donjetman]

yeah, used a spare bolt and washer I had layin around in the 2nd hole.

 

[PG01]

yeah, used a spare bolt and washer I had layin around in the 2nd hole.

Thats wut she said…….

 

[rdezs]

I used a washer headed bolt on the non bolt side. Works just as good i think.

Yes, it should.

That unused bolt hole buried out of sight, is a perfect example of the entire Auto industry for 50 years doing odd things to save 3 cents per vehicle

 

[rdezs]

Thats wut she said…….

OMG, I just spilled my coffee laughing so hard

 

[rdezs]

A little off topic, but on the subject of GM trimming costs..... Such as leaving out fasteners, or fasteners too small for the application such as unexhaust manifolds, I'm going to be doing a test on a used oil pan in the near future. Enlarging and rethreading the bolt holes for the oil cooler block mount. Sort of a pet peeve for me, you have thousands of dollars wrapped up in an engine and you're holding on that oil cooler blocked with two tiny bolts, only inch pounds of torque.

My measurements on a cylinder head last year ruled out going any larger on the exhaust manifold bolts unfortunately. Since then I have only used stainless steel manifold studs, with an allen head in the center of the stud. Red loctite. Then stainless steel nuts with a stainless steel star washer under them. So far 100% success, no issues. If you ever need to remove a stud, much easier to just heat up the stud with a pencil torch to release the locktite.

 

[j91z28d1]

A little off topic, but on the subject of GM trimming costs..... Such as leaving out fasteners, or fasteners too small for the application such as unexhaust manifolds, I'm going to be doing a test on a used oil pan in the near future. Enlarging and rethreading the bolt holes for the oil cooler block mount. Sort of a pet peeve for me, you have thousands of dollars wrapped up in an engine and you're holding on that oil cooler blocked with two tiny bolts, only inch pounds of torque.

My measurements on a cylinder head last year ruled out going any larger on the exhaust manifold bolts unfortunately. Since then I have only used stainless steel manifold studs, with an allen head in the center of the stud. Red loctite. Then stainless steel nuts with a stainless steel star washer under them. So far 100% success, no issues. If you ever need to remove a stud, much easier to just heat up the stud with a pencil torch to release the locktite.

have you ever had an exhaust stud come loose? I've only ever heard of stock bolts snapping..

studs with crimp lock nuts seem to be a solid in not just the ls but Ford changed to the little m8 with the first mod motors. they atleast did studs from the factory thou, they never snapped. when we used to do headers swaps, we'd always reuse the factory studs with crimped flanged lock nuts and reuse the gaskets. throw away whatever came with the kits for bolts and gaskets.

 

[rdezs]

I've had nothing but good experiences with stainless steel studs. Seems like the problem with the OEM bolts is that they rust all the way through over time.

I have a set of studs holding the exhaust manifolds on a small block Chevy in my Jeep CJ7 that I did about 15 years ago. They haven't aged at all. (But it is a garage Queen)

 

[SpareParts]

Got the spare engine pretty much ready to be installed. I want to get the engine swapped before October.
I'll probably have to do it all my self, so im not looking forward to doing it but sure will if i have to!

 

[SpareParts]

Changed the oil today after running R&P for about 3k.
The oil filter had 7 small specks of metal in it. The oil pan had a bunch and the filter also had some flushed out sledge in it. Noting like the first oil change shows post#31.
I had a strong magnet on this filter the entire time i had the R&P in it and it had nothing on the inside where the magnet was.
From the lack of junk in the filter, I suspect the metal is still flushing out from the original oil change and sludge at the bottom of the pan when i first got it. You can see in the bottom of the pleats the sludge im talking about.

My oil pressure has remained constant since i changed the oil pump and O ring, 23psi hot and 70psi cold.