Oil pan gasket and pickup tube seal replacement

Discussion in 'Engine & Drivetrain' started by Matahoe, Dec 6, 2018.

  1. Matahoe

    Matahoe Full Access Member

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    Any tips on replacing these gaskets? What about access issues on a 4WD? I've seen the videos with people lowering the front diff without removing the front cv's. Doesn't seem right to do it that way as you can pull the joints apart and not know it.
     
  2. SnowDrifter

    SnowDrifter Full Access Member

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    You'd know if you had the joined pulled apart cause they wouldn't sit right. Take off the CVS if you're concerned

    TBH pulling the front diff is an easy job.

    Take off your front skid plate

    Disconnect breather, actuator, drive shaft, cv axles.

    Loosen and unscrew.but don't fully remove the nuts securing your center link to the pitman arm and idler arm, note the orientation. Toss a 2 jaw puller on it, load it up nice and tight, then smack it with a hammer. Once that's free, swing it down and front to get clearance.

    3 mounting boots to remove the diff. It swings down, then you turn it and it drops out. It's fairly light, no more than 80lbs give or take.

    Doesn't take more than 2 hours to do. Longest part is getting the tapers out of the center link without a pickle fork, which would mess up the ball joint boots.
     
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  3. Matahoe

    Matahoe Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the tips Chris. Today I completed the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket project. Originally I was getting a fluctuation of about 10 PSI that concerned me so I decided to see if I could fix it.

    Project wise, to get the oil pan off all I had to do is lower the front diff. Nothing in the service manual about the pitman arm so I just went by the manual. I use Alldatadiy.com and it seemed accurate.

    I'll post before and after PSI numbers for those interested in doing this project.

    It turned out that cleaning everything seemed to take the most time. Get some scotch brite pads and some purple power. The combo works great!. A word of caution...do NOT use oven cleaner to clean the oil off of aluminum engine parts. This would include the pan itself which is aluminum. Sodium Hydroxide eats aluminum.

    Overall I would say it's about 4-6 hour job. I took my time and it took me a couple days.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2018
  4. Stroked

    Stroked TYF Newbie

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    How did this go, do you have any psi updates? I’m having a similar issue
     
  5. Matahoe

    Matahoe Full Access Member

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    Yeah thanks for reminding me. When I replaced the oring I notice the tube was loose for some reason.

    There was about a 15-20 psi increase overall. Very visible. Also there is a lot less up and down pressure fluctuation. Engine seems to run much more smoothly now. This could also be a result from cleaning the Crankshaft position sensor and electrical connector as well.

    I am also using 0w-20 now and still get great numbers.

    Before (5w-30)
    25 psi @ idle
    45 psi @ 2500 rpm

    After (0w-20)
    40 psi @ idle
    65 psi @2500 rpm
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2018
  6. ScottyBoy

    ScottyBoy Full Access Member

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    I'm 2wd, so mine was really easy. But even though I am 2wd, I CAN give you a tip. Before dropping the pan, run a bottle of engine flush in your engine for about 10-15 minutes (or longer if the instructions on the bottle say so). Normally, it's a bad idea to flush your engine, because if you loosen up sludge it even chunks of thick sludge, it can clog the oil pump pick up tube and screen. But since you are dropping the pan anyways, that's the best time to do an engine flush and clean up the inside of the engine. Especially since you are having low oil pressure issues, maybe you can clean up those oil passages.
     
  7. SnowDrifter

    SnowDrifter Full Access Member

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    Are those numbers with 0w20 hot after driving for 15 plus minutes?

    Stock oil pump?

    How you checking pressure?

    Ya have me second guessing if Mines shot or not. I'm at 31psi hot idle, 55ish at 2500. I get a little fluctuation when hot but I had assumed it's due to my oil Pressure sensor being a cheap aftermarket. It always fluctuated by a percentage of the current pressure and only hot. Never cold. I never thought I had low pressure but you're posting better numbers than I am with a thinner oil
     
  8. Wolfbraid

    Wolfbraid Full Access Member

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    I did this as well, never liked the idea, but after my oil pressure switch filter got clogged, I knew it probably wouldn't hurt. It's been running great since.
     
  9. Matahoe

    Matahoe Full Access Member

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    Oil pressure switch filter? Correct me if I am wrong but I thought these were only on the AFM/DOD engines starting in 2007??
     
  10. Matahoe

    Matahoe Full Access Member

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    Great question. I looked at it today and was wondering the same how oil temperature might come into play lowering the pressure as it almost always does.

    When hot the oil pressure turns out to be:

    35 psi @ idle (0w-20)
    55 psi @ 2500 rpm (0w-20)

    I'll snap a pic or two so you have some proof. I think I recorded a video a few weeks ago but I'm sure the engine wasn't hot. I'll see about recording another.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2019

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