Any tips on replacing these gaskets? What about access issues on a 4WD? I've seen the videos with people lowering the front diff without removing the front cv's. Doesn't seem right to do it that way as you can pull the joints apart and not know it.
Oil pan gasket and pickup tube seal replacement
- Thread starter Matahoe
- Start date
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SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
You'd know if you had the joined pulled apart cause they wouldn't sit right. Take off the CVS if you're concerned
TBH pulling the front diff is an easy job.
Take off your front skid plate
Disconnect breather, actuator, drive shaft, cv axles.
Loosen and unscrew.but don't fully remove the nuts securing your center link to the pitman arm and idler arm, note the orientation. Toss a 2 jaw puller on it, load it up nice and tight, then smack it with a hammer. Once that's free, swing it down and front to get clearance.
3 mounting boots to remove the diff. It swings down, then you turn it and it drops out. It's fairly light, no more than 80lbs give or take.
Doesn't take more than 2 hours to do. Longest part is getting the tapers out of the center link without a pickle fork, which would mess up the ball joint boots.
TBH pulling the front diff is an easy job.
Take off your front skid plate
Disconnect breather, actuator, drive shaft, cv axles.
Loosen and unscrew.but don't fully remove the nuts securing your center link to the pitman arm and idler arm, note the orientation. Toss a 2 jaw puller on it, load it up nice and tight, then smack it with a hammer. Once that's free, swing it down and front to get clearance.
3 mounting boots to remove the diff. It swings down, then you turn it and it drops out. It's fairly light, no more than 80lbs give or take.
Doesn't take more than 2 hours to do. Longest part is getting the tapers out of the center link without a pickle fork, which would mess up the ball joint boots.
OP
OP
Thanks for the tips Chris. Today I completed the oil pickup tube o-ring and pan gasket project. Originally I was getting a fluctuation of about 10 PSI that concerned me so I decided to see if I could fix it.
Project wise, to get the oil pan off all I had to do is lower the front diff. Nothing in the service manual about the pitman arm so I just went by the manual. I use Alldatadiy.com and it seemed accurate.
I'll post before and after PSI numbers for those interested in doing this project.
It turned out that cleaning everything seemed to take the most time. Get some scotch brite pads and some purple power. The combo works great!. A word of caution...do NOT use oven cleaner to clean the oil off of aluminum engine parts. This would include the pan itself which is aluminum. Sodium Hydroxide eats aluminum.
Overall I would say it's about 4-6 hour job. I took my time and it took me a couple days.
Project wise, to get the oil pan off all I had to do is lower the front diff. Nothing in the service manual about the pitman arm so I just went by the manual. I use Alldatadiy.com and it seemed accurate.
I'll post before and after PSI numbers for those interested in doing this project.
It turned out that cleaning everything seemed to take the most time. Get some scotch brite pads and some purple power. The combo works great!. A word of caution...do NOT use oven cleaner to clean the oil off of aluminum engine parts. This would include the pan itself which is aluminum. Sodium Hydroxide eats aluminum.
Overall I would say it's about 4-6 hour job. I took my time and it took me a couple days.
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OP
OP
Yeah thanks for reminding me. When I replaced the oring I notice the tube was loose for some reason.
There was about a 15-20 psi increase overall. Very visible. Also there is a lot less up and down pressure fluctuation. Engine seems to run much more smoothly now. This could also be a result from cleaning the Crankshaft position sensor and electrical connector as well.
I am also using 0w-20 now and still get great numbers.
Before (5w-30)
25 psi @ idle
45 psi @ 2500 rpm
After (0w-20)
40 psi @ idle
65 psi @2500 rpm
There was about a 15-20 psi increase overall. Very visible. Also there is a lot less up and down pressure fluctuation. Engine seems to run much more smoothly now. This could also be a result from cleaning the Crankshaft position sensor and electrical connector as well.
I am also using 0w-20 now and still get great numbers.
Before (5w-30)
25 psi @ idle
45 psi @ 2500 rpm
After (0w-20)
40 psi @ idle
65 psi @2500 rpm
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ScottyBoy
Full Access Member
I'm 2wd, so mine was really easy. But even though I am 2wd, I CAN give you a tip. Before dropping the pan, run a bottle of engine flush in your engine for about 10-15 minutes (or longer if the instructions on the bottle say so). Normally, it's a bad idea to flush your engine, because if you loosen up sludge it even chunks of thick sludge, it can clog the oil pump pick up tube and screen. But since you are dropping the pan anyways, that's the best time to do an engine flush and clean up the inside of the engine. Especially since you are having low oil pressure issues, maybe you can clean up those oil passages.
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
Are those numbers with 0w20 hot after driving for 15 plus minutes?
Stock oil pump?
How you checking pressure?
Ya have me second guessing if Mines shot or not. I'm at 31psi hot idle, 55ish at 2500. I get a little fluctuation when hot but I had assumed it's due to my oil Pressure sensor being a cheap aftermarket. It always fluctuated by a percentage of the current pressure and only hot. Never cold. I never thought I had low pressure but you're posting better numbers than I am with a thinner oil
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
I did this as well, never liked the idea, but after my oil pressure switch filter got clogged, I knew it probably wouldn't hurt. It's been running great since.
OP
OP
Oil pressure switch filter? Correct me if I am wrong but I thought these were only on the AFM/DOD engines starting in 2007??
OP
OP
Great question. I looked at it today and was wondering the same how oil temperature might come into play lowering the pressure as it almost always does.
When hot the oil pressure turns out to be:
35 psi @ idle (0w-20)
55 psi @ 2500 rpm (0w-20)
I'll snap a pic or two so you have some proof. I think I recorded a video a few weeks ago but I'm sure the engine wasn't hot. I'll see about recording another.
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SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
I believe you, but if you wouldn't mind grabbing a vid or some pictures so we can compare relative gauge positions that would be awesome! Admittedly I'm checking my pressure via a scan tool so I'd like to just see where the needle is that. Yes I want to compare needles with you. Heh heh.
All jokes aside; that's a great improvement. I'll do mine next OCI. If worst comes to worst I can sleep soundly knowing it won't be an issue in the future.
All jokes aside; that's a great improvement. I'll do mine next OCI. If worst comes to worst I can sleep soundly knowing it won't be an issue in the future.
OP
OP
Here is a pic the following day just after adding oil. Cold engine at idle and cold oil of course. I had to let the gasket rtv cure overnight. It's the factory oil pump at 175k
OP
OP
Oil pressure is about 72 psi @ 3000 rpm when engine is cold
Wolfbraid
Full Access Member
You maybe right, I have an 07, I didn't know I was replying in the wrong forum! whoops sorry.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Fun job right, did it myself in August. Did not touch the steering link as others have suggested because I did not want to mess with anything related to the steering of the truck but if I were to do it over again I would have. Your Oil Pressure as shown in the picture is right where it should be and is exactly how mine is. I too spent time cleaning the pan and crossmember and related parts. Did not use any sealant on the pan Gasket as they are suppose to be ''self sealing" and have had no leaks.
OP
OP
I didn't think it was fun. Cleanup was a mess. Those YouTube videos by Rickafix and Spelunkerd don't even begin to go into detail of just how messy a job this is. Perhaps if you lived in Texas with no leaks or rust... then maybe....maybe easier (absolutely in no way fun) job.
I would need a really good reason to touch the steering linkage. Mine was a bear to get loose a year ago. Again I guess if you lived in a salt free region...maybe.
I wish it were so. But the service manual specifically states that sealant is needed. If you look up at the block sealing surfaces you will notice a void were the front timing cover and rear cover gaskets go. It is needed.
OP
OP
No problem. Just trying to make it clear so others wouldn't get confused.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
I also spent a considerable amount of time on cleaning I even blasted the engine down by the front of the oil pan and that wiring harness that is secured to the front of the pan and still had crap falling off while removing the oil pan bolts. I too watched the ''Rickfix'' video and thought about the same as you. Did you check your Flex Plate bolts when you had the pan off ? Mine loosened up a few years ago and the guy at my local GM dealership said they have seen that happen.
SnowDrifter
Full Access Member
Flex plate to transmission? Or flex plate to crankshaft?
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Engine / Motor
