Much better oil pressure after oil change.

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HiHoeSilver

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Take a look at post #31. This what you could be looking for. It's not a fast leak, so you might not notice any coolant loss before it sludges in the sump. The filter would prevent sludge from getting back to the heads.

There are only 10 posts. What #31 are you talking about?
 

Reane

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I had the same issue in my 08 Yukon 6.2l it would get great pressure right after a change and then it would gradually loose good pressure. ended up with the rear seal leaking fixed it and all better!
 
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Thanks. I will investigate this. When I bought it, it had an overheating condition that turned out to be a clogged radiator. The PO had green ethylene glycol coolant in it... no coolant in water then. Nor slime on the oil filler cap as you would expect when excess moisture was in the system. I have since replaced the radiator, water pump (was squeaking but worked) and thermostat (was missing) and put dexcool back in it after a good flush. I'll do the oil analysis after putting some miles on this fresh oil and pull the valve covers.
Any suggestions as to how many miles I should do before the oil analysis?
 

Rocket Man

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Thanks. I will investigate this. When I bought it, it had an overheating condition that turned out to be a clogged radiator. The PO had green ethylene glycol coolant in it... no coolant in water then. Nor slime on the oil filler cap as you would expect when excess moisture was in the system. I have since replaced the radiator, water pump (was squeaking but worked) and thermostat (was missing) and put dexcool back in it after a good flush. I'll do the oil analysis after putting some miles on this fresh oil and pull the valve covers.
Any suggestions as to how many miles I should do before the oil analysis?
According to these FAQ’s they recommend at least 500-1000 miles. I’d order the kit now so you have it, the kit is free. They don’t charge until they do the analysis.
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/information/faqs/gas-diesel-questions/
 

Larryjb

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I should add that I pressurized the cooling system with a pressure tester. This, in combination with an oil analysis, confirmed the crack was the source of the water in the oil.
 

brasil

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as far as I know, there is a little o-ring at the end of the tube that ends in the sump. if this o-ring is rotten...you will loose some of your oil pressure . The strange thing is, that the pressure loss occurs 400-500 miles after you changed your oil. this speaks for bigger clearances between the bearings. so I would go with a 10-40 ..or 10 -50 Oli. and watch for the drop...
if the oil pressure stays in a good range. you´re done. If not.... remember the o-ring

Greetings Juergen
 

Larryjb

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I would be cautious about using any viscosity above 10W30. You want lubrication to the lifters as fast as possible. I sometimes get lifter noise on start up. As soon as I went to 5W30 the lifter noise quietened much sooner.
 

iamdub

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I think your engine is just sludged from the previous neglect and the good oil/regular oil changes is breaking up the sludge and it's clogging up the filters. You may just have to keep replacing the filters until it's cleaned internally.

But, just to throw in something from far left field:

Say your engine is sludged and chunks are breaking free since you've been taking better care of it- Higher quality oils contain detergents that can help to dissolve the sludge. The screen on the pickup tube is getting clogged as it sucks up the chunks from the sump. You drain the oil and they fall off the screen and settle back to the bottom of the sump or flow out of the drain hole. The oil pressure is then good again until that fresh oil breaks up more sludge that ends up in the oil pan and the cycle continues.
 

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