Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[Tonyrodz]

Released a 6.0 LS back to its natural habitat today.. Took about 3 hours. Give one for fiddling with lift. Was pretty easy...

Trick was having that harbor freight siccsor jack for transmission. Make adjusting dowel pins and aligning transmission a cinch.

I would recommend getting valley cover plate to lift with.. was real nervous using accesory bolt holes on heads.

Also having took front bumper and core support off made a HUGE difference.

I put front bumper on as was tired of tripping over it but should have left it off.

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Nice, congrats! Get that puppy running!

 

[1BADI5]

Released a 6.0 LS back to its natural habitat today.. Took about 3 hours. Give one for fiddling with lift. Was pretty easy...

Trick was having that harbor freight siccsor jack for transmission. Make adjusting dowel pins and aligning transmission a cinch.

I would recommend getting valley cover plate to lift with.. was real nervous using accesory bolt holes on heads.

Also having took front bumper and core support off made a HUGE difference.

I put front bumper on as was tired of tripping over it but should have left it off.

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Hell yeah man, well done

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Cannot wait to get it running. Mostly amostly assembly work now. But still need to figure out how to setup and run the wideband O2 :/

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Got all my bolts in, and slack taken out. Starting to put the bellhousing, and motor mount to frame bolts to torque spec.

Before I do that though, I torqued the flex plate bots. Probably that should be done last, however, I'm wanting to quadropoly check I don't have one of those builds that requires the spacer on end of crankshaft.

How would I know if I required that spacer on crankshaft snout (I'm not familiar with trust specs on 4L60E Converter). Here's my casting numbers:

Block: 12551364
Crankshaft: *sigh* I should have wrote more of this stuff down, is from a 2001 5.3L LM7

It looked like the torque converter had about 1/150 inch of space or so (just eyeballing it). Once I put in the toque converter to flywheel bolts everything came together easily. I know that torque converter moves back and forth a bit on the tranny output shaft but no idea how much?

 

[fasteddy]

Awesome!
That has to be the only solid roller, Tony Mamo advised Tahoe that I know of.
Now for a 150 shot of N2O! Plate driven.....easy peasy!.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am curious about thrust specs (forward and backward movement) on torque converter behind flex plate. I had about 150 thosands (eyeball measure) of slack when bolting up the torque converter. Slack was taken up by bolts, curious if that is within nominal specs.

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[fasteddy]

I think your flexplate/converter is fine.....stock converter right? Should bolt right up.

Solid Roller YES!
Johnson 2116LSR link bar lifters. That's your roller yes?

What did you think the SR in 2116LSR stood for?

LSR=Low (travel) Solid Roller....

Mamo-ized Solid Roller Tahoe (MSRT)

I've never seen it done with stock rockers, usually adjustable rockers.
Which make LLSR valvetrain. Low Lash Solid Roller.
Very popular for high rev applications, prevents valve float.
And they have to be adjusted after startup.
I don't know what the process or adjustment cycle is with the stock rockers.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Ah yeah, they still are hydraulic but damn near a solid roller. I think the piston is 93 thousands long. I think factory LS7 drop-ins are like 150 thousands? My only fear is the cam won't like it and burn up, which would, well stink.

Manton Pushrods helped me spec the pushrods so all else should be fine. It should oil similarly to factory lifter just a bit less volume of oil. I need to hit up Tony one of these days when I come across some good loot and after the transmission is built. I would LOVE LOVE LOVE the 205 AFR mongoose heads. Roger Vinci said they'd be the perfect combo for what I want, a truck / torque motor.

Crazy thing, I built a low torque motor that could handle 7500 RPM. Kind of an oddity. I really didn't know what I bought when I purchased the LSR lifters. However, Manton said they will work awesome for what I want to do. I just don't know how much of a beating the cam will take with them / how much if any dampening they really do.

I think you're right on transmission. Apparently some of the early 6.0 motors had a different crankshaft to hook up to a 4L80E. That had a longer snout. I did some reading on it, finally found the info. And yup I'm doing a 4L60E (stock) with this 6.0 build. The built transmission is coming up next (different thread).

 

[fasteddy]

OK
Looking forward to hearing it run!
Ya know, you can start it up without the waterpump and AC on ...
Just crank the starter with the coils unhooked to get oil pressure and no fire.
Get fuel pressure.
Then run it for like 30 seconds to see how it sounds.
That's what I do.....just to validate.

This guy runs his on a stand.....for a few minutes...I don't do that.

LS LQ4 Startup On Engine Stand - YouTube

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Yeah is what I will do. Prob start it without all the hoopla hooked up. Just spin with starter. Thrn with fuel, then with plugs and let run for a few seconds. Lastly reassemble everything.

Only thing is I have a 5.3L fuel map in my computer and this is a cammed 6.0L

I may need to at least program computer with LQ9 maps to start it for few seconds? Not sure...

In my LT1 I put a much larger cam. However, I just ran it with stock tune for quite a while. This time I have bigger cylinders too so not sure if I can even safely start it?

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[Mudsport96]

Only thing is I have a 5.3L fuel map in my computer and this is a cammed 6.0L

I may need to at least program computer with LQ9 maps to start it for few seconds? Not sure...

This time I have bigger cylinders too so not sure if I can even safely start it?

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For the 2001 in your sig? Or is it a different Tahoe?

 

[fasteddy]

Yeah is what I will do. Prob start it without all the hoopla hooked up. Just spin with starter. Thrn with fuel, then with plugs and let run for a few seconds. Lastly reassemble everything.

Only thing is I have a 5.3L fuel map in my computer and this is a cammed 6.0L

I may need to at least program computer with LQ9 maps to start it for few seconds? Not sure...

In my LT1 I put a much larger cam. However, I just ran it with stock tune for quite a while. This time I have bigger cylinders too so not sure if I can even safely start it?

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I'm assuming your injectors and fuel pump/reg are same
It'll start fine with a 5.3 calibration, it may not idle, but your are DBC, Yeah? Just finger it. .....LOL
I'm more concerned with the lifters, but I guess we'll see.

Then if you must and you have HP Tuners (I think you do), just download a stock 6.0 tune from library and make changes.
That should get you going until you're all together and can drive it.....Change the target idle setting first so it doesn't stall out.

But it should start fine now.
And take a video.....I would like to hear the johnsons..they may be a bit noisier than stock so manage your expectations.

 

[fasteddy]

PS.
I don't know the specs on your cam.....
Depending on the size, if lift is over .530 you may be at the edge of duty cycle with your injectors.
Not critical right now...just don't spin it to 7500 yet, LOL

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

haha I go to 587 at peak figuring in the factory rocker ration. I was sorted about buying the bigger injectors then found a set of 8 25lb acdelcos factory part numver for lq9 for like 50$ new so sprung on them.

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[fasteddy]

haha I go to 587 at peak figuring in the factory rocker ration. I was sorted about buying the bigger injectors then found a set of 8 25lb acdelcos factory part numver for lq9 for like 50$ new so sprung on them.

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OK....6.0 injectors=5.3 injectors, meaning same. You'll most likely need more...at some point.

.587 Lift? Is that what you meant?
Do you know the duration and LSA....that's important for your Trans torque converter.

For example, the BTR stage 4 (biggest they make) truck cam has a .553 intake lift and a healthy duration so it requires a 3000 stall converter.
Specs are 224/230 .553/.547 111+2, I suspect your duration is less. Inquiring minds want to know.

 

[Tonyrodz]

haha I go to 587 at peak figuring in the factory rocker ration. I was sorted about buying the bigger injectors then found a set of 8 25lb acdelcos factory part numver for lq9 for like 50$ new so sprung on them.

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8 new injectors for $50?

 

[Tonyrodz]

OK....6.0 injectors=5.3 injectors, meaning same. You'll most likely need more...at some point.

.587 Lift? Is that what you meant?
Do you know the duration and LSA....that's important for your Trans torque converter.

For example, the BTR stage 4 (biggest they make) truck cam has a .553 intake lift and a healthy duration so it requires a 3000 stall converter.
Specs are 224/230 .553/.547 111+2, I suspect your duration is less. Inquiring minds want to know.

I have the BTR stage 3 cam with a 3000 stall Circle D.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

My goal was to not use a high stall torque converter. This is what Roger came up with for me. I don't totally understand torque converters. I know how they work but don't really understand how they spec them. For now will be running factory converter and 4L60E. I think lobe height is 345, or 587 with the 1.7 rocker ratio. I told Roger I was looking at RV cams had a comp cam picked out but asked if he could build to not loose power anywhere over factory camshaft, as well as have more gentle rampa than the steep ramp shoet duration profile comp cams has.

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[fasteddy]

Should be OK with stock converter.
The johnson's might make the cam bigger than it is....Is that the difference you are computing?

Not a small cam though....should have some lope to it.

For reference, this is the summit racing towing cam for trucks focused on torque.
op range idle to 5000
205/217 112+2, .500 /.500 (larger than stock, smaller than yours)

One step at a time.....
Did you video the start up yet? I want to hear the johnson's

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am a slow mover lol I am currently soaking accessory brackets in degreaser... retaping harnesses etc. I spent 3 or 4 hours perday cleaning up pieces like new as I put back together.

Yeah I think the lifters will def make it a bigger cam as factory spec lifters hame something like double the plunger movement. My biggest worry with that is will it beat up on the cam as there is decreased dampening. Guess I will find out. I hope to check lash a couple more times after break in periods.

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