Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[iamdub]

There are tons if tutorials on internet if you search "remove rust eith electrolysis"...

that said,

plastic bucket
sacraficial metal piece
battery charger (dc)
washing soda (salt)

put parts in bucket keeping sacraficial metal away from parts in plastic container

fill with water, and dump in some washing soda

hook up negative to parts with rust

posative to sacraficial metal

takes hours or days depending on your mixuture.

i would goohle process for more details

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Works great for removing tarnish from silver, too. I get a foot or so of wire outta my welder and wrap it around a screwdriver to make it a coil to act as a cheap sacrificial anode.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

super smart with weldong wire.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Okay latest blunder... The rings are gapped, pistons built and ready to go in motor. I had ordered the wrong piston rings and discovered that when I got ready to build the pistons.

The motor had been balanced with the wrong piston rings. Once the new rings came in, I discovered they were 4 grams lighter per piston.

I'm looking at how they calculated the bob weight and the weight would be off by 0.2% due to that. I'm not sure it's an issue? I know taking apart my 5.3L there was a 10 gram difference from lightest to heaviest piston. I know all my pistons will be within 1 gram of each other. But not sure exactly how or if the 4 grams lighter will effect things.

 

[iamdub]

Okay latest blunder... The rings are gapped, pistons built and ready to go in motor. I had ordered the wrong piston rings and discovered that when I got ready to build the pistons.

The motor had been balanced with the wrong piston rings. Once the new rings came in, I discovered they were 4 grams lighter per piston.

I'm looking at how they calculated the bob weight and the weight would be off by 0.2% due to that. I'm not sure it's an issue? I know taking apart my 5.3L there was a 10 gram difference from lightest to heaviest piston. I know all my pistons will be within 1 gram of each other. But not sure exactly how or if the 4 grams lighter will effect things.

I doubt it's anything to worry about. At least this time around, they're all "evenly out of balance", although very minimally. These engines run for 300K miles way more out of balance than where yours currently is with no problems. It wouldn't hurt to call the shop and ask. They're the pros for a reason.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Rear main seal is throwing me for a bit of a curve. My manual doesnt explain nuch...

I put the seal in the cover... then try to install cover and seal. Seal starts to come out when I start to thread the bolts.

Also there is a white plastic disc that came with the seal.. that fits perfectly on the end of the crank... is that some sort of an alignment tool?

How does this work [emoji2962]

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[iamdub]

Rear main seal is throwing me for a bit of a curve. My manual doesnt explain nuch...

I put the seal in the cover... then try to install cover and seal. Seal starts to come out when I start to thread the bolts.

Also there is a white plastic disc that came with the seal.. that fits perfectly on the end of the crank... is that some sort of an alignment tool?

How does this work [emoji2962]

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First off- make sure you have the seal facing the correct way.

Glue the seal in place in the cover with RTV. I do this for front and rear seals.

The white disc needs to be in the seal. It centers the seal on the crank and, when you push the seal onto the crank, it keeps the lip of the seal facing the correct direction as it pops out. DO NOT lubricate the crank where the seal goes on. I "hang" the cover in place with one hand, just to hold the weight. With my other hand, I press the disc onto the crank so it's centered, then I position my fingers on the seal and press it onto the crank which simultaneously pushes the cover against the block. You push the seal to push the cover, not snug the cover to the block to pull it and the seal. I let the disc pop out and fall. Then I thread in the bolts, align the cover with the skirt of the block, measure the clearances, etc.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@iamdub dang thanks! I have been boycotting Youtube for several months. I finally broke down and watched how that white disk works. Pretty simple, got it installed... but too had wondered if a little RTV or glue would have been okay on the seal to keep it seated. The front seal went in and really stuck in place. the rear one was so so. I wonder, can a person remove the seal? or is it only good for one time install? I really don't like the metal barbell, oil galley plug, I bought. The design floating around isn't that good. I found a metal barbell with oring on both sides. Also I'd like to glue the seal in place now that you mention that.

New Question: I lost the oil pickup tube bolt. Anybody know what size bolt that is, wonder if I can just buy one from parts store. The new oil pump didn't come with one.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub dang thanks! I have been boycotting Youtube for several months. I finally broke down and watched how that white disk works. Pretty simple, got it installed... but too had wondered if a little RTV or glue would have been okay on the seal to keep it seated. The front seal went in and really stuck in place. the rear one was so so. I wonder, can a person remove the seal? or is it only good for one time install? I really don't like the metal barbell, oil galley plug, I bought. The design floating around isn't that good. I found a metal barbell with oring on both sides. Also I'd like to glue the seal in place now that you mention that.

New Question: I lost the oil pickup tube bolt. Anybody know what size bolt that is, wonder if I can just buy one from parts store. The new oil pump didn't come with one.

Glad to help. While looking for other pics in my build thread, I found a pic of the RMS. I also have pics of the Sac City billet barbell I used. I like it.

All on page 56: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-56#post-1428047

I thoroughly clean the channel in the rear cover then smear a solid layer of RTV all around the seal where it contacts the channel. I let it cure for a couple of hours while I do other stuff. When installing the cover, I push on the seal with my fingers on the outer edge so it lets the disc pop out but no force is on the seal to push it out of the cover. I RTV the front seal, too. There's absolutely no harm in doing so, it can only help.

You can remove and replace the RMS without removing the cover. Just remove the transmission, CAREFULLY pry the old on out and press in the new one. Obviously, using RTV makes this much more difficult. But, the stock one, installed correctly, lasted 200K. I expect the on I put in to do the same. I'm extra particular when positioning the cover. I don't use alignment tools, I measure to the 1/4 of a millimeter.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Glad to help. While looking for other pics in my build thread, I found a pic of the RMS. I also have pics of the Sac City billet barbell I used. I like it.

All on page 56: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-56#post-1428047

I thoroughly clean the channel in the rear cover then smear a solid layer of RTV all around the seal where it contacts the channel. I let it cure for a couple of hours while I do other stuff. When installing the cover, I push on the seal with my fingers on the outer edge so it lets the disc pop out but no force is on the seal to push it out of the cover. I RTV the front seal, too. There's absolutely no harm in doing so, it can only help.

You can remove and replace the RMS without removing the cover. Just remove the transmission, CAREFULLY pry the old on out and press in the new one. Obviously, using RTV makes this much more difficult. But, the stock one, installed correctly, lasted 200K. I expect the on I put in to do the same. I'm extra particular when positioning the cover. I don't use alignment tools, I measure to the 1/4 of a millimeter.

Sweet post, I also put a camera doen my oil galley in the block. Not sure I checked alignment of front pump, didnt even think about that. super smart.. i was more interested in what it looked like.

Do you know where I can get the oil pump pickup tube bolt? I lost mine and new pu.p didnt come with one... I see they sell on ebay but is complete kit of bolts.

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[iamdub]

Sweet post, I also put a camera doen my oil galley in the block. Not sure I checked alignment of front pump, didnt even think about that. super smart.. i was more interested in what it looked like.

Do you know where I can get the oil pump pickup tube bolt? I lost mine and new pu.p didnt come with one... I see they sell on ebay but is complete kit of bolts.

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Dealer or hardware store. M6x1.00x20mm

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Found it, thank god

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[Matthew Jeschke]

Ah sheet... I seem to have messed up. Read wrong line on torque specs. Tried to do 22ft lbs... it is 106 inch pounds. Believe I started stripping the threads

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[fasteddy]

Glad to see you're moving along and getting skilled input.....
All this talk about engines makes me want to ditch my 6.0L build and go 6.6L
I love TQ and strokers make a boatload.
Even though there is absolutely nothing wrong with my current 5.3

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

The LS is a facinating motor. They really worked to squeeze more out of this motor. A 6.6 would be awesome. I would love to get my hands on an LS7. But pipe dreams haha

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[Matthew Jeschke]

I finally got the short block fully assembled. Few things that threw me for a curve...

1. That stupid rear main seal. I am glad I pulled it off and did the RTV. I could push it out by hand with ease. Front one wasn't RTV'd but is in like a rock. I did however, get a little RTV on the lip of the seal. Hopefully doesn't hurt anything, I worked really hard to clean it off (see picture)

2. Stripped bolt in oil pump was no issue. I pulled it back out, cleaned the threads with a tap. Then put the bolt back on with proper torque spec and blue lock tight. Hopefully holds as good as if I didn't nothing wrong to begin with

3. Stupid exhaust manifold mistake haha. I used electrolysis to clean off rust before painting it but backwards for a little while. It pitted the manifold mating surfaces. I took a belt sander and sanded them down for about 30 minutes. Then checked for flatness was good to 10 thousands but 5 could start to slip through. I still have a bit of pitting in the surface. I'm not sure if that will cause a heat stress / air pockets and wear the gasket out?

Lastly, Engine stand is top heavy. It wants to flip the head side down. Is there a trick to these to get them re adjusted? I feel like I've got the motor as low as it will go on the stand. Last motor I built on a cardboard box in my living room haha. Was a PITA but I got it done.

 

[fasteddy]

Your manifolds look nicely restored. As long as they mate to head with the gasket you'll be fine.

I think the speed engineering headers look good (future mod). Inexpensive for stainless and includes the cross over and flange.


Engine stand wants to flip over? Most have a cylinder in the back where they slide into a sleeve with holes.
That way the engine can be rotated for assembly. A pin inserted into a hole serves as a lock.
The handle in the back serves as a lever to rotate.



Hope that helps.....

 

[fasteddy]

Hey check this out....
Seriously considering this company for a long block
6.6L @ 575hp NA, but I'll swap out the LS3 heads for cathedrals.
3 yr unlimited mileage warranty. That's a big sale point for me.
I usually use Texas Speed. Engines come with a start up warranty and that's it.

408 LQ9 Long Block Engine: L408-HR-LB4-1 (prestigemoto.com)

Maybe it'll beat my suburban in a straight race, but I doubt it. Might be close.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

You're making me want to do a 6.6 instead haha I am def novice. My engine stand had the motor mounted up as high as it could go. I adjusted it and it's a little easier to handle. Few quick questions...

Harmonic Balancer fully seated? I pushed it on till it would go no further but there's still a little bit of a lip showing. and 15/100 inch in front of the crank snout. Not sure if that's correct?

Cylinder Head Gasket right direction? there was a confusing note in my gasket set. It said make sure to install this side up, and look for print on gasket saying, this side up. I just want to quadruple check that note wasn't for my cylinder head gaskets. It said front on it and cannot really be installed any other way. I wonder if note wasn't accidentally put in my overhaul kit.

Lifter drag? I bought *used* Johnson 2116LSR link bar lifters. They are slow leak drop in lifters with link bars for LS style motors. All but 3 of them when in with little resistance once lined up. The other three had to be turned as installed then once lip was in could slide in. They do have a little drag and slight drag noise when actuated by hand. However, it's very minute. I'm assuming those will mate up fine? Break in? I presume are burrs on lip of lifter by roller. Not 100% sure.

It's actually starting to look like a motor

 

[iamdub]

Harmonic Balancer fully seated? I pushed it on till it would go no further but there's still a little bit of a lip showing. and 15/100 inch in front of the crank snout. Not sure if that's correct?

Per the service manual: "The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4–4.48 mm (0.094–0.176 in) into the balancer bore."

there was a confusing note in my gasket set. It said make sure to install this side up, and look for print on gasket saying, this side up. I just want to quadruple check that note wasn't for my cylinder head gaskets. It said front on it and cannot really be installed any other way. I wonder if note wasn't accidentally put in my overhaul kit.

I don't believe I've ever seen "THIS SIDE UP" on any LS head gaskets. I've seen only seen "FRONT" since they can only go one way without blocking the water jackets at the rear of the block.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@iamdub thanks! any thoughts on the lifter drag?

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