Front end parts question

[pnwdan]

I had almost the same issue with mine. I replaced the entire front end which cut it down about 25%. I replaced my tires after that and it cut it down about another 70% but I still had an ever so slight vibration at 70mph. After going through everything I decided to change out my front rotors. As you see for me it was a combination but mostly tires but anything that rotates can effectively add vibration.

 

[Dustinh]

I had almost the same issue with mine. I replaced the entire front end which cut it down about 25%. I replaced my tires after that and it cut it down about another 70% but I still had an ever so slight vibration at 70mph. After going through everything I decided to change out my front rotors. As you see for me it was a combination but mostly tires but anything that rotates can effectively add vibration.

I appreciate you chiming in on this since you had the same thing. I've done my brakes rotors just recently. I think new tires, shocks and spacing out and replacing my jounce stops is going to be the trick

 

[BeenChevy]

Hey Dustinh,

In your case i'm confident the tires are the likely culprit and majority the issue. However, as you know, there are other components that will drastically help in conjunction.

Here are the jounce stops I went with from energy suspension:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9117

-Think I ordered them on ebay for less than $20

I've converting most of my bushings to energy over the years on a few trucks and am VERY impressed with the durability. Here's some of the other parts that incorporate the energy bushings for our trucks:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/chevrolet_tahoe_4wd_2005

After cranking a Tahoe and Yukon I had to figure out how to improve the ride and probably invested more time and effort than it would have took to fab and install my own lift. I swapped around a total of 9 different sets of 33's and am currently at 25k on a set of Atturo Trail Blade's (33x12.5x20) on 1 truck and a fresh set on another and cannot say enough good things about them. They save you $ if you're thinking of going Nitto and very comparable in my opinion. -> I've run 2 sets of grapplers (trail and dune).. great tires also yet for the $ I choose Atturo. I'll be trying out their XT's next.

 

[mattt]

Yes Moog is good stuff and no issues with them. Part of cranking up keys creates a gap between LCA and jounce so get a 1/2" spacer between jounce and mounting point so there closer to LCAs. How much gap do you have now between them?

I haven't spent any time seeing how the jounce bumpers are attached, but is there enough extra fastener there to be able to add a spacer below them to move them up? What have people used to space up the jounce bumpers after cranking a bit? I'm mildly cranked(not leveled out), and the jounce bumpers are no longer touching. I'd like to correct that.

 

[BeenChevy]

Depends. The stock Z71 stops are longer so if you don't already have those, I think you can replace yours with those (correct me if i'm wrong). My trucks have tabs that hold them in and removing them prior to installing the lower stops was helpful. I was able to remove them by sticking a screw-driver in the center-hole of the stock stops and yanked side-ways to force them out of their tabs. Using a flathead was able assist the rubber back into the locking tabs to re-install.

I recall the steel only being 1/4-3/8's thick on the lower arm so there was enough thread to space underneath if necessary, however mine made subtle contact after letting the truck down off the jack. Just measure the gap prior to lifting the truck off the ground and see how much room you have between the arm and upper stop, you can get larger ones than I did if you need. There's lots of shapes to choose from. Depending on the upper stop you may want something more or less tapered or even round.

 

[mattt]

Mine has the taller, stock Z71 jounce bumpers, since it's a 2004 Z71 4wd Tahoe.

 

[Dustinh]

Hey Dustinh,

In your case i'm confident the tires are the likely culprit and majority the issue. However, as you know, there are other components that will drastically help in conjunction.

Here are the jounce stops I went with from energy suspension:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9117

-Think I ordered them on ebay for less than $20

I've converting most of my bushings to energy over the years on a few trucks and am VERY impressed with the durability. Here's some of the other parts that incorporate the energy bushings for our trucks:

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/chevrolet_tahoe_4wd_2005

After cranking a Tahoe and Yukon I had to figure out how to improve the ride and probably invested more time and effort than it would have took to fab and install my own lift. I swapped around a total of 9 different sets of 33's and am currently at 25k on a set of Atturo Trail Blade's (33x12.5x20) on 1 truck and a fresh set on another and cannot say enough good things about them. They save you $ if you're thinking of going Nitto and very comparable in my opinion. -> I've run 2 sets of grapplers (trail and dune).. great tires also yet for the $ I choose Atturo. I'll be trying out their XT's next.

Thank you for your advice. I've been contemplating the atturo's over the federals just to try them out. And I'm pretty confident now as well that most of my problem is tires/balancing. Hopefully a rim is not bent. That gives me a solid starting point

 

[mattt]

Yes Moog is good stuff and no issues with them. Part of cranking up keys creates a gap between LCA and jounce so get a 1/2" spacer between jounce and mounting point so there closer to LCAs. How much gap do you have now between them?

How are you able to affix the 1/2" spacer between the jounce and the mounting point? On the 4wd Tahoe's I've seen the jounce bumper is just pinched in place in the permanently welded in place mount cup.

 

[BeenChevy]

Nah it's only pinched in their. Take a screwdriver, sick it into the center hole of your stock jounce and turn/bend it sideways until it detaches

 

[mattt]

You are correct...it is only pinched in there. The question is how did the original poster I referenced add a 1/2" spacer to a pinched in place jounce bumper???

 

[01Konvict]

How are you able to affix the 1/2" spacer between the jounce and the mounting point? On the 4wd Tahoe's I've seen the jounce bumper is just pinched in place in the permanently welded in place mount cup.

I never spaced mine out from mount but did something like this guy where its a bump stop added to lower arms so they touch. I can't seem to find the picture of the guy who used box tubing then drilled a hole in it to mount to upper side of jounce stop. I will keep searching but this is an option.
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/lift-or-level-kit.80825/

 

[mattt]

Thank you 01Konvict, that is a good way to solve the issue that I hadn't thought of. I'd be interested to see the box tubing spacer deal.....reason being, it appears from when I had my jounce bumper out that the mount is permanently welded in place, so I'm not sure how he'd ad a piece of tubing to space the mount down. Thanks again for the pic and description. Did you feel an improvement in ride quality after adding that bump to the lower arm?

 

[01Konvict]

Thank you 01Konvict, that is a good way to solve the issue that I hadn't thought of. I'd be interested to see the box tubing spacer deal.....reason being, it appears from when I had my jounce bumper out that the mount is permanently welded in place, so I'm not sure how he'd ad a piece of tubing to space the mount down. Thanks again for the pic and description. Did you feel an improvement in ride quality after adding that bump to the lower arm?

Yes it was noticeable with braking and stopping the nose diving. I think the guy cut the regular circle mounts off then added box tubing with a bolt through the jounce stop into tubing into base metal. I prefer this solution of adding a bump stop on lower arm so you can easily replace jounce stops when worn without major work. I would do what he did and see how you like it. Can always get a taller bump stop depends on current gap between arm and jounce.

 

[ATIII]

Well I just got my new Z-71 jounce stops, now hopefully the small gap that I still have will be filled. It didn't quite put them in contact by adding the 1" spacers to the LCA. What's the best way to get the new ones in?

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