Just read through this whole thread and had a moment of gratitude for the people here and just how fantastic the knowledge and experience is that’s in this group, and that so many are willing to share it.
It’s an oasis.
It’s an oasis.
Front end refresh project
- Thread starter alvocado
- Start date
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Joseph Garcia
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As Hannibal Smith always says, "I love it when a plan comes together!"
Great work, something to feel really great about, and you've earned yourself some beers.
Great work, something to feel really great about, and you've earned yourself some beers.
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alvocado
Full Access Member
Battle of the front end continued today with front differential carrier mounts. The passenger side came out pretty easily and the bolts were in surprisingly good shape. One drivers side bolt was rusted to the mount and took some MAP gas heat and working back and forth from up top to break loose. Both of the drivers side bolts were badly eaten up with corrosion so I had to clean up and head out to track down some M12x1.75 bolts from AAP. I also discovered that although I thought I bought a 36mm sway bar bushing, the part I ordered was for a 30mm so I picked up some random brand at Oreilly's which I'm sure I'll be disappointed in.
All I have remaining is the rear driveshaft ujoints but it was time to call it quits for the day. Hopefully I'll have it completed by tomorrow night and I can get in for an alignment on short timing.
All I have remaining is the rear driveshaft ujoints but it was time to call it quits for the day. Hopefully I'll have it completed by tomorrow night and I can get in for an alignment on short timing.
Marky Dissod
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Sorry to go off on a tangent, but is this a GM OE 36mm sway bar?
If so, how can I get my hands on one?
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alvocado
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Yes, factory sway bar is 36mm.
Marky Dissod
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How can I get my hands on a GM OE 36mm sway bar like yours?
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alvocado
Full Access Member
gmpartsdirect.com, several on eBay, local dealer, etc.
Marky Dissod
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Hopefully, saying '2011 GMC Yukon SLT 36mm front swaybar, please' will be enough. Cool, thanks.
Joseph Garcia
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Yeah... Those bushings are shot. I replaced mine a few years back, when I got tired of hearing the clunk.
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alvocado
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Got the truck aligned yesterday and it's riding great. My battery died while on the alignment rack with the ignition on so I picked up a new battery assuming the current one was going bad. After swapping, my alternator whine which has been bugging me for over a month is now gone. Bonus problem solved.
I do feel some newly presenting vibration when accelerating at low speeds and suspect the CV axle(s). Both are factory and with the mileage, they are probably due. I was contorting the drivers side on reinstall and that may have been enough to put a worn cv joint over the edge.
The GM OE units are very expensive. Has anyone found an aftermarket option that they feel is reasonable quality? I really don't want to layout over $600 for a pair.
I do feel some newly presenting vibration when accelerating at low speeds and suspect the CV axle(s). Both are factory and with the mileage, they are probably due. I was contorting the drivers side on reinstall and that may have been enough to put a worn cv joint over the edge.
The GM OE units are very expensive. Has anyone found an aftermarket option that they feel is reasonable quality? I really don't want to layout over $600 for a pair.
I installed Car Quest (new, not remanufactured) CV joints on my '07 earlier this year. So far, so good. Got them from my local Advance Auto - they often have good discounts through their mobile app.
DoubleDingo
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I've heard it's very effective. Trick is to get it hot, apply the wax and let it wick into the threads, and a crayon is what I've heard is the easiest because it's already small diameter and can get into tight areas
donjetman
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I replace both CV axles and both wheel bearing hubs 2.5 yrs ago for <$300, Detroit Axle brand - amazon
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alvocado
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I opted to replace just the left side axle with a GM unit and the vibration is gone. For anyone considering trying to sneak the axle around the strut vs. removing the strut assembly, let me save you the headache by telling you it's not possible and you'll damage the axle. I was lazy and popped the strut back in before remembering the install sequence.
I never got to the driveshaft ujoints so that's on the list for this weekend. May the rust gods be with me as I work out the OSR's.
I never got to the driveshaft ujoints so that's on the list for this weekend. May the rust gods be with me as I work out the OSR's.
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alvocado
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One of these days a repair job will go as planned with no issues. Today was not that day.
Project ujoint commenced and as I anticipated, the snap rings broke off and the remainders are rusted into the driveshaft. I haven't even tried the slip yoke end because I'm 0 for 2 on the tail. I heated, soaked with 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid, scraped, you name it but no luck. I decided to call it a day and picked up $50 worth of picks, cold chisels, and couple of pliers from Hobo Freight to start again tomorrow and not further destroy my screw drivers and punches that were too soft.
I'd love to hear from any of you guys that have fought and won similar battles if you found a particular technique that works.
Project ujoint commenced and as I anticipated, the snap rings broke off and the remainders are rusted into the driveshaft. I haven't even tried the slip yoke end because I'm 0 for 2 on the tail. I heated, soaked with 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid, scraped, you name it but no luck. I decided to call it a day and picked up $50 worth of picks, cold chisels, and couple of pliers from Hobo Freight to start again tomorrow and not further destroy my screw drivers and punches that were too soft.
I'd love to hear from any of you guys that have fought and won similar battles if you found a particular technique that works.
DoubleDingo
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Besides heat, perhaps use a smaller diameter cup/socket and press that side away from the broken snap ring.
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alvocado
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I did try tapping each side with a small ball peen hammer head hoping it would break the snap rings loose. Unfortunately the rings are broken on each side and still retaining the ujoint.
DoubleDingo
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The idea of using the tool to press the ujoint away from the broken snap ring was to relieve some pressure, break the rust bond, etc. If anything, let the penetrant sit in the area to creep in.
SpareParts
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Get a big hammer and a punch and smack that end cap. You want to drive it in a little bit. Once you get the end cap in a minute amount the snap ring will come right out.
Then do the same thing on the other side except drive it till the other end cap comes out. Then smack it back the other way till both end caps are out.
Then do the same thing on the other side except drive it till the other end cap comes out. Then smack it back the other way till both end caps are out.
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alvocado
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Got it. I want to make sure I don't do anything to damage the ring groove on the opposite side since it also has a partial ring in place. Any risk of this so that you have to watch how much force? I assume a small punch or socket isn't going to have the ooomf to drive the cap much and you only need to create a small gap to free up the ring.
