Front end refresh project

[alvocado]

I started my suspension refresh plus a few additional items last night with plans to tackle upper front control arms, tie rod ends, differential carrier bushings, sway bar bushings, front and rear shocks, and rear driveshaft ujoints.

The passenger side went well with no issues. The drivers side control arm bolt snapped off and I ended up using a Sawzall to cut it off next to the bushing to get the control arm free. Fortunately I had two AC Delco camber kits with new bolts on hand as both bolts were completely rusted and not suitable for reuse (assuming one didn't break)

The front suspension is finished but I ran into an issue on the "easy repair." One of my sway bar bushing mount bolts snapped off in the frame. I've been fighting it for an hour and no luck. It broke flush on the bottom but I can get vice grips on the top above the retainer nut but it won't budge.The bolt is so rusty I'm concerned it will be really difficult to drill out and save the threads. I'm open to thoughts from others fighting through their rust belt repairs.

Assuming I can get the sway bar back in, I'm moving on to the front diff mounts before bolting the half shafts back in then dropping the driveshaft for the unjoints. I'm already bracing myself for removing those.

 

[89Suburban]

I started my suspension refresh plus a few additional items last night with plans to tackle upper front control arms, tie rod ends, differential carrier bushings, sway bar bushings, front and rear shocks, and rear driveshaft ujoints.

The passenger side went well with no issues. The drivers side control arm bolt snapped off and I ended up using a Sawzall to cut it off next to the bushing to get the control arm free. Fortunately I had two AC Delco camber kits with new bolts on hand as both bolts were completely rusted and not suitable for reuse (assuming one didn't break)

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The front suspension is finished but I ran into an issue on the "easy repair." One of my sway bar bushing mount bolts snapped off in the frame. I've been fighting it for an hour and no luck. It broke flush on the bottom but I can get vice grips on the top above the retainer nut but it won't budge.The bolt is so rusty I'm concerned it will be really difficult to drill out and save the threads. I'm open to thoughts from others fighting through their rust belt repairs.

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Assuming I can get the sway bar back in, I'm moving on to the front diff mounts before bolting the half shafts back in then dropping the driveshaft for the unjoints. I'm already bracing myself for removing those.

Good job man. One of my sway bolts snapped off too. I had to drill it out and use a bolt and locknut.

 

[alvocado]

@89Suburban I was considering that route since there's a nut welded on top to the frame. It's easily accessible.

What type of bit did you use that got through the bolt? I've only tackled smaller bolts in aluminum and this one is just big enough to be a PIA.

 

[89Suburban]

@89Suburban I was considering that route since there's a nut welded on top to the frame. It's easily accessible.

What type of bit did you use that got through the bolt? I've only tackled smaller bolts in aluminum and this one is just big enough to be a PIA.

Just a Milwaukee bit kit form Home Depot with the gold colored bits. I center punched it and started off small and it still went off center so it was a major PITA. I wound up drilling through 2/3 of the bolt and 1/3 of the fixed nut. So I had to put a flat washer on the top side. Ugga ugga'd that fker down and fkit. That laying on your back busting your ass drilling shit gets old quick.

You can use a flap wheel disc to grind the bolt down more flush to start off on but it still sucks.

 

[89Suburban]

Some goof ball on here @DoubleDingo said try using candle wax on the threads I dunno.

In hindsight I am now wondering, if you cut a slot in the bolt and use one of those impact bit drivers that you hit with a hammer to try and thread it through to the top side. That way you aren't fighting the rusted threads on the top side.

 

[Fless]

Warm it up with some MAPP gas?

Drill deep enough into it to get even with the top of the nut (helps relieve the pressure on the threads that are in the nut), leaving the remainder of the bolt intact on top. Start with a center punch and a relatively small drill, then progress to larger drills without damaging the the internal threads of the nut. Then heat it up with a torch and try to turn it out from the top. Not sure if a double nut procedure would work better than the vice grips.

Sometimes a shock of cold water with a spray bottle after heating it up helps. Heat and cold cycles.

 

[alvocado]

All good suggestions and I appreciate it. I think a first try to take advantage of some potentially clean threads is to cut a groove in the face to drive in and use a double nut to pull up through the nut in the frame. If that doesn't work, it's MAP gas and drill bits for hours.

 

[swathdiver]

All good suggestions and I appreciate it. I think a first try to take advantage of some potentially clean threads is to cut a groove in the face to drive in and use a double nut to pull up through the nut in the frame. If that doesn't work, it's MAP gas and drill bits for hours.

We used heat and different kinds of penetrating oils to no avail.

I broke a lot of bits trying to get that out. Finally got it up on a lift and paid a guy to get it out, he broke two more bits. We put a blind nut on top and it's been that way for about 6+ years. I have a heli-coil kit to fix it, it's a low priority but it WILL get fixed properly someday.

 

[Jimmyy]

Do you have the means to get a nut welded on to the broken bolt? The heat plus the extra grip might get it done.

 

[alvocado]

Unfortunately I don’t. I really need to learn some basic welding and get a home setup.

 

[Foggy]

I just saw this sway bar mount bushing deal on another thread...
There IS a solution.. It's a mount that replaces the now missing threads.
I'm not sure if it needs welding in or what..
I believe its a dorman and/or gm/acdelco part.. You'll have to look around
the parts places, etc HTH

 

[alvocado]

I just saw this sway bar mount bushing deal on another thread...
There IS a solution.. It's a mount that replaces the now missing threads.
I'm not sure if it needs welding in or what..
I believe its a dorman and/or gm/acdelco part.. You'll have to look around
the parts places, etc HTH

I found that thread. It looks like the entire sway bar mount which must be welded to the frame. I'm hoping to use the existing mount and extract the broken bolt only but good to keep that as a reference in case the mount fails.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I found that thread. It looks like the entire sway bar mount which must be welded to the frame. I'm hoping to use the existing mount and extract the broken bolt only but good to keep that as a reference in case the mount fails.

You've been given good advice on using a centering punch, and then using successively larger drill bits one at a time.

Start with PB Blaster or equivalent on the exposed threads above, and give it time to penetr*te (didn't know it was a forbidden word here) downward into the threads of the broken bolt. A few applications over a long day should provide the best penetr*ting results that you are going to get from it.

Then CAREFULLY use your centering punch to create a small indent as close to the center of the broken bolt that you can. Don't worry if it is slightly off center.

Then start drilling with your smallest drill bit. Apply light steady pressure to the drill, but not enough to overheat or snap the small drill bit. Be sure to liberally use cutting oil, applying several times during each drill bit progression. You don't have to drill clear through the broken bolt, but estimate the drill depth to be at least up halfway through the nut. Progressively increase the drill bit size in small increments, being patient and consistent. The broken bolt will free up long before you get to a drill bit size that could potentially impact the nut's threads.

Then, use the correct size thread chaser to clean out the nut. Purchase the correct replacement bolt, with a grade 8 or higher certification, and put liberal amounts of basic Loctite on the replacement bolt to prevent the threads from seizing up again, in case you need to remove the bolt in the future.

********** This is what I did, when my bolt broke. If you are gentle and patient, this is not a hard or overwhelming job (except for the laying on your back piece, though I found the padded creeper to be very helpful). **********

 

[Marky Dissod]

Start with PB Blaster or equivalent on the exposed threads above, and give it time to
penetr8 (didn't know it was a forbidden word here)

Penuhtrait is a curse word? Seriously? We trying to out-censor disney? When is this humbug gonna get fixed?

 

[alvocado]

@Joseph Garcia Your plan is spot on. I just rounded up two carbide tipped drill bits to start the hole and step up one size. It's amazing how hard it is to find carbide bits these days as the big box stores have a lousy selection.

Worse case if I damage the hole threads, I measured the bolts and they are M10x1.5. I happen to have a Heli-coil kit in that size so I can tap and coil the hole after drilling it out.

Heading out to get started and I'll report back, hopefully sooner than later as there's some good college football on today.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

@Joseph Garcia Your plan is spot on. I just rounded up two carbide tipped drill bits to start the hole and step up one size. It's amazing how hard it is to find carbide bits these days as the big box stores have a lousy selection.

Worse case if I damage the hole threads, I measured the bolts and they are M10x1.5. I happen to have a Heli-coil kit in that size so I can tap and coil the hole after drilling it out.

Heading out to get started and I'll report back, hopefully sooner than later as there's some good college football on today.

I didn't even use carbide drill bits, just new sharp ones. I'm not sure that only 2 drill bits is going to easily get you where you need to go.

 

[SpareParts]

Cracker also had a broken sway bar mount bolt when I bought it. I did not care and just drilled it out and put a grade 8 bolt with a nyloc nut back. Problem solved.

 

[alvocado]

3-1/3 hours and 4 drill bits later and it’s out. @Joseph Garcia was right about the number of bits to get deep enough. Minor thread damage but the bolt holds after chasing the threads. It should be fine but if it loosens, I’ll drill out the hole and Heli-coil later. It’s worth a try. I had to dig deep on the determination scale for this one!

 

[SpareParts]

When i fixed mine, I had nowhere near enough determination for the fix you did. Good job.

 

[89Suburban]

3-1/3 hours and 4 drill bits later and it’s out. @Joseph Garcia was right about the number of bits to get deep enough. Minor thread damage but the bolt holds after chasing the threads. It should be fine but if it loosens, I’ll drill out the hole and Heli-coil later. It’s worth a try. I had to dig deep on the determination scale for this one!
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Atta baby!!!