decembersend
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2016
- Posts
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Does anyone know if these hoods have a service position. I looked the other day but didn’t see anything that stood out
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Nope... I took mine off for my supercharger install last year... Friggin heavy
Yes. You need to take the pieces of the wiper cowl off around the hinges, then you take the bolts out of the springs, then push the hood up, and there’s a slot in the hinge you side the bolts in.
Don't use any traditional scraping tools or razors...
I used the permatex gasket remover foam and a clean microfiber rag. Worked really well and no surface damage or flying abrasives that way.I've been reading on various ways to clean the heads and block and some have suggest using purple power. What are your thoughts on that?
I will def make sure all holes are cleared, it appears that any little spec can mess up the way the heads sit.
I've been watching several videos from a bunch of different youtubers to learn the best way to do this. Everyone so far has talked about how you want to make sure the dowel is in the 3:00 position and put the sprocket on the dowel as well with the dot in 6 position . I'm just hoping I remember hahahaha. A
I would go this rout too. I never liked taking abrasives to head or deck surfaces.I used the permatex gasket remover foam and a clean microfiber rag. Worked really well and no surface damage or flying abrasives that way.
I'm going to try it and I'll let everyone know how it worked for me. Hopefully not to much elbow greaseI used the permatex gasket remover foam and a clean microfiber rag. Worked really well and no surface damage or flying abrasives that way.
Godspeed, sir. Also, I zip-tied that wiring harness to the wiper arm to keep it out of my way while I worked. It'll save you a ton of aggravation because that thing always seems to be hanging right in the way of whatever you're trying to do.I’ll be making a build thread but just wanted to update everyone. Most of the parts are here and I’ve begun.
Godspeed, sir. Also, I zip-tied that wiring harness to the wiper arm to keep it out of my way while I worked. It'll save you a ton of aggravation because that thing always seems to be hanging right in the way of whatever you're trying to do.
Also, it's a good time to replace that troublesome oil sending unit and screen when you replace the valley pan.
Also, you can safely delete that plastic baffle on the rear of the intake manifold that makes the sender so hard to get to. It's only there for sound deadening and not having it makes literally no audible difference to my ear, yet makes getting to that sender about one billion times easier.Thanks for the tip. I was actually trying to move the harness off to the drivers side but sadly it goes down the frame on the passenger side and I didn’t bother crawling underneath to see where it connected to.
I had to replace the oil sending unit two years ago, but your prob right I should replace it again while it’s apart. I did it without removing the intake the first time and that was a pita because you can’t see a thing.
They can collapse internally or your VLOM may have failed too, causing your symptoms..
Either way, now that you are apart, ditch that crap !!!!
I'm not having any issues at all (as I turned it off when I purchased it used) , but I'm
still going to change cams and ditch all the AFM crap. Plus I'm really OCD !