Sparksalot
Elite Member
I wonder why it wasn't ordered with that already disabled?
Building the SS(V) TrailHoe
- Thread starter Bill 1960
- Start date
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There’s a lot doesn’t make sense about the CBP mods on this. Seems crudely done. The rear audio has been dead since I got it; I was sure it was disabled. Nope- just every speaker in the back is dead. Open circuit. How’s that happen???
The rear lock buttons had the actuator rods removed and the buttons screwed in place on the door plastic.
The operating cables for the interior door handles removed. Luckily you can buy those from Dorman. Chevrolet will only sell it integrated with a new door latch a$$embly.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I actually need to swap the rear locks between mine. The lock rods are missing from theothertwin, but it's the one i use for daily. Thecopcar has them, but no need since I've removed the rear seat to make room for the large doggie, and a fridge.
Back doors all together again with fully functional windows, locks, door handles, and speakers. While I was in there I placed some Dynamat to quiet it a bit. Forgot to take pictures of that, I’ll try to remember to do that when I do the fronts. Which may be months down the road, depending on other factors.
Pulled off the front plastic today to get the headlights out and find out why the high beams don’t work. As expected, the cop shop cut the wiring; found it about 6” behind the headlights connector to the vehicle harness. Soldered and heat shrinked the original wiring and it’s all good to go. Had a DRL out and a side marker bulb, so while I had them out I replaced all the small lamps. It’s just ridiculous the work you have to go through to get the lights out of these trucks.
Probably later I’ll replace the faded out factory lights with new, but it’s a not a priority now.
Tomorrow I’ll install the transmission cooler, while the facia is off.
Probably later I’ll replace the faded out factory lights with new, but it’s a not a priority now.
Tomorrow I’ll install the transmission cooler, while the facia is off.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I took the grill out to do the larger transmission cooler. I should have just pulled the entire skin. Later I did the rear when I changed the impact bar to get a factory trailer hitch. Mega easy.
Added the OEM supplemental trans cooler today. GM used to sell this as a reasonably priced kit complete with all the lines etc. That part has been discontinued, so now you have to purchase 4 individual components at twice the price.
I debated aftermarket however I’m biased to trust in OEM engineering when it’s available. This thing will never be a tow rig of any consequence, this is just insurance to compensate for the large tires and frequent off road use.
Note to self: NEXT TIME let the guys installing the new transmission install the cooler at the same time! Disconnecting and reconnecting the new hard line to the side of the transmission with everything else in place was not fun. Bad language was used. Blood was shed.
Edit: first drive today I’m seeing a 20 degree f drop. Ambient 90; transmission temperatures now 17x vs 19x in typical city driving.
Part numbers for future reference:
Cooler 20880895
Inlet pipe 25999416
Outlet pipe 15779543
Clip / bracket 15049288 (holds the hard lines in place below the cooler)
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
I took that one out of thecopcar and replaced it with a Hayden 678.
“One man’s trash...” LOL.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Btw, I had no brace on the top either. The new one is twice the size, so I secured it higher up on the diagonal brace.
Got the new head unit in, finally. Had some delay waiting for the installation accessories. The only thing I should have done differently is choose a network adapter that supports the speed sensitive volume. I may revisit that someday.
This is a Pioneer DMH-4660NEX. Other installation parts below.
My main reason for choosing this model was the support for wireless CarPlay.
The dash trim is out in the photo because I’m still waiting on a USB socket to replace one of the cigarette lighter sockets.
Supporting components:
Metra 95-3305 Double DIN Installation Multi Kit
Metra 40-CR10 antenna adapter
PAC LCGM29 Radio Replacement Interface (as mentioned above this item does not support speed sensitive volume)
This is a Pioneer DMH-4660NEX. Other installation parts below.
My main reason for choosing this model was the support for wireless CarPlay.
The dash trim is out in the photo because I’m still waiting on a USB socket to replace one of the cigarette lighter sockets.
Supporting components:
Metra 95-3305 Double DIN Installation Multi Kit
Metra 40-CR10 antenna adapter
PAC LCGM29 Radio Replacement Interface (as mentioned above this item does not support speed sensitive volume)
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Nothing picture worthy today, just a coolant change. No problems, and the existing stuff looked OK, but I want to be sure I know fresh fluids are everywhere.
I am guessing at some point the hoses were all replaced and I would expect the coolant also. All of the hose clamps are the screw type and GM doesn’t build them that way.
Later this year I’ll get the OEM spring clamps and change them all back.
I am guessing at some point the hoses were all replaced and I would expect the coolant also. All of the hose clamps are the screw type and GM doesn’t build them that way.
Later this year I’ll get the OEM spring clamps and change them all back.
Stuck a spare tire back in place under the rear. Used one of the factory wheels and a fresh 265 for a spare.
I don’t think I mentioned it in this thread previously that I purchased replacement tire tools and a jack from eBay. Naturally none came with the vehicle.
Sometimes it’s irritating fixing/ replacing items resulting from negligence / incompetence or just plain theft.
I don’t think I mentioned it in this thread previously that I purchased replacement tire tools and a jack from eBay. Naturally none came with the vehicle.
Sometimes it’s irritating fixing/ replacing items resulting from negligence / incompetence or just plain theft.
Today I installed the ProComp front skidplate. It's a separate item, not included with the lift kit. Fit and finish is great. All stainless. I can't wholeheartedly recommend it, because although it's not cheap, it's made with thin material, and worse, weakened in the center because they laser cut their logo through it. I guess the marketing department won that debate with engineering.
Of course they covered themselves with this legal garbage: "This item is designed as a decorative accessory item. It is not intended to provide additional vehicle safety or protection."
This precaution of course, is supplied in the INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, not the ADVERTISING.
My own assessment- it's adequate for keeping brush and debris out of the front of the engine and the underside. Which is all I really need it for. Rock crawling protection it is NOT. Later on when time permits I'll pull it off and reinforce the backside with some heavier material.
Of course they covered themselves with this legal garbage: "This item is designed as a decorative accessory item. It is not intended to provide additional vehicle safety or protection."
This precaution of course, is supplied in the INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, not the ADVERTISING.
My own assessment- it's adequate for keeping brush and debris out of the front of the engine and the underside. Which is all I really need it for. Rock crawling protection it is NOT. Later on when time permits I'll pull it off and reinforce the backside with some heavier material.
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Sparksalot
Elite Member
In all the searching I've done for skid plates I've found two. The factory z-71 plate for ~$450, or that one. I didn't like the logo at all, then if your REALLY DIG hard, you find the fine print about it being matched with their lift kit.
Yeah, @Sparksalot you’d need different skids depending on the lift situation because the big lifts with drop cross members change the lower front mounting points.
It would be relatively simple fabrication to build these from scratch for anyone with metal working tools. I simply don’t have the time now, so I got these. And I’m not building a rock hopper anyway. I don’t even enjoy trails that rough when the machine is built for it. Too slow for my taste.
If I wasn’t lifted I’d go prowling the junkyards for the Z-71 part or just buy some steel plate and start cutting and bending.
It would be relatively simple fabrication to build these from scratch for anyone with metal working tools. I simply don’t have the time now, so I got these. And I’m not building a rock hopper anyway. I don’t even enjoy trails that rough when the machine is built for it. Too slow for my taste.
If I wasn’t lifted I’d go prowling the junkyards for the Z-71 part or just buy some steel plate and start cutting and bending.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Finding any of the nnbs hoes in a junkyard seems like a unicorn search. Most of them are being parted out on eBay. But even there, I’ve only seen new pieces up for sale.
I’m not after rock protection per se, but unwanted pokey stuff coming through the plastic splash guard. I did fab a very light sheet steel piece that fit behind the plastic. I have a heavier piece of aluminum I recently acquired to replace it sometime.
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We are on the road for a while, so construction is paused while we get some use out of the project.
Today spent some quality time in the Pisgah nation forest. It’s the first time I’ve really had time to test the suspension on dirt. All good. Really smooth ride with the BFG’s at 20 psi.
Today spent some quality time in the Pisgah nation forest. It’s the first time I’ve really had time to test the suspension on dirt. All good. Really smooth ride with the BFG’s at 20 psi.
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How do you like the wireless CarPlay? I installed a 1300 NEX in my Tahoe awhile back specifically for CarPlay but it's wired only. Everything I read at the time said that wireless CarPlay had a really annoying delayed response, which I've noticed when just playing my phone over Bluetooth instead of CarPlay. Have they improved the wireless responsiveness at all?
