Sparksalot
Elite Member
I bought a pair of AGMs to go into thecopcar in December.
Building the SS(V) TrailHoe
- Thread starter Bill 1960
- Start date
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That was expen$ive!
Sparksalot
Elite Member
Lol. Not bad really. I got the Walmart version of your same battery. Both are actually Johnson Controls. Paid about $350 for the pair.
PatDTN
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I watch my neighbors upgrading even their brand new Jeep and laugh about how the project keeps ***********. 2 1/2" lift to fit 37s? No problem. Hm. Needs new gears. Kinda hard to get in and out of too. Rock sliders that really protect aren't shipping yet. It goes on.
@PatDTN too right. Lift and tires are just the beginning of a long chain of consequences when you alter a vehicle. Having done a few, I have a fine appreciation for just how good the factory engineering team is.
Adding power is the same way. Boost one thing, break another.
Adding power is the same way. Boost one thing, break another.
PatDTN
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Having just swapped in a 6.2 with LS9 cam I fear that. I keep my foot out of it at low speeds.
I wrapped up the rear deck and it’s in the more or less finished state. No doubt I’ll do some tweaking after a few trips.
Built in three sections, the rear drawers can be used with or without the rear seats. The sections over the rear seating positions are built 60/40 like the seats so I can run 1 or 2 more seats if I ever need to.
Built with plywood over a steel frame that bolts to the seat mounting points and the cargo ties in the rear. God forbid this thing ever crashes or rolls but if it does I won’t have this flopping around in the cabin. Plus I really hate loose rattling cargo off road.
The drawers will be for miscellaneous small things we access frequently like snacks and dog bowls. Under the front hatches I’ll have tools, recovery gear, clothes, things less often needed or too big for the drawers.
The deck overall is 74" front to rear, so there's enough room for two of us to sleep if ever needed. Two people plus two dogs; well, that may be an issue.
I left enough space between the deck and the front seats so the fronts can still fully recline. So maybe it'll sleep four?
Unseen, but hidden in the front cargo storage I placed some LED strips around the interior. So it won't be a black cave when I'm trying to find something.
The rear drawers are full extension. If I ever get into camping much out of this I'll probably do something more elaborate. But that's not in my to do list at present.
Built in three sections, the rear drawers can be used with or without the rear seats. The sections over the rear seating positions are built 60/40 like the seats so I can run 1 or 2 more seats if I ever need to.
Built with plywood over a steel frame that bolts to the seat mounting points and the cargo ties in the rear. God forbid this thing ever crashes or rolls but if it does I won’t have this flopping around in the cabin. Plus I really hate loose rattling cargo off road.
The drawers will be for miscellaneous small things we access frequently like snacks and dog bowls. Under the front hatches I’ll have tools, recovery gear, clothes, things less often needed or too big for the drawers.
The deck overall is 74" front to rear, so there's enough room for two of us to sleep if ever needed. Two people plus two dogs; well, that may be an issue.
I left enough space between the deck and the front seats so the fronts can still fully recline. So maybe it'll sleep four?
Unseen, but hidden in the front cargo storage I placed some LED strips around the interior. So it won't be a black cave when I'm trying to find something.
The rear drawers are full extension. If I ever get into camping much out of this I'll probably do something more elaborate. But that's not in my to do list at present.
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Seems the TrailHoe is begging for a transmission. More on that here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/4l60e-delayed-2-3-shift-after-wot-application.124063/
Don't have a 100% trusted diagnosis yet, as I write this I'm planning to take it to the dealership for a second opinion. I'm feeling kind of peevish with GM if I have to buy a transmission at 61k miles.
I'm no transmission expert, but based on a lifetime of experience with all things electromechanical I'd say it's a weak seal or blown O-ring somewhere. Of course if that part is in the ****** of the trans and requires removal and dissassembly...
Don't have a 100% trusted diagnosis yet, as I write this I'm planning to take it to the dealership for a second opinion. I'm feeling kind of peevish with GM if I have to buy a transmission at 61k miles.
I'm no transmission expert, but based on a lifetime of experience with all things electromechanical I'd say it's a weak seal or blown O-ring somewhere. Of course if that part is in the ****** of the trans and requires removal and dissassembly...
PatDTN
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Bummer. A neighbor builds 4Lxx trannies for racing and has a very good record for durability. It's barely more than a hobby so he's very concerned with details.
I keep trying to get him to start on the 6 speeds. I might have more luck now that he has a newer Yukon with one that he tows his camper with.
Doesn't help you right now I realize.
I keep trying to get him to start on the 6 speeds. I might have more luck now that he has a newer Yukon with one that he tows his camper with.
Doesn't help you right now I realize.New tranny is in and the Hoe is home again after a 2 week stay at the Chevy dealer. Originally supposed to take 1 week, but we had a delay when the transfer case developed a minor leak at the input shaft following reinstallation. New seal seems to have cured that.
I've been somewhat PO'd about the whole business of buying a transmission at 60k miles. But that's in the rearview mirror now. The guys at the dealership did give me some really good service and attention to detail, which helped. The tech doing the work is an enthusiast so we spent some quality time under the truck discussing the build. I liked that they let me go in the shop and talk with the guys with dirty hands face to face. Lots of shops won't do that.
Next on the agenda is going to be a do-over on tires and maybe wheels. I'm getting some high speed imbalance, which I have no tolerance for. Plus I've found my tolerance for the sound of MT tire treads is not what it used to be. Probably going for some BFG KO which I know to be quiet, and balance well.
I've been somewhat PO'd about the whole business of buying a transmission at 60k miles. But that's in the rearview mirror now. The guys at the dealership did give me some really good service and attention to detail, which helped. The tech doing the work is an enthusiast so we spent some quality time under the truck discussing the build. I liked that they let me go in the shop and talk with the guys with dirty hands face to face. Lots of shops won't do that.
Next on the agenda is going to be a do-over on tires and maybe wheels. I'm getting some high speed imbalance, which I have no tolerance for. Plus I've found my tolerance for the sound of MT tire treads is not what it used to be. Probably going for some BFG KO which I know to be quiet, and balance well.
Spent a couple of hours today jacking up one wheel at a time and checking the runout on the ProComp steel wheels and the General Grabber rubber, using a dial indicator. Nothing out of tolerance. So the shakes I have are just a half assed balance job on one of the fronts.
I wanted to be sure the wheels were OK before swapping tires. The wheels were beat on and dropped in shipment because ProComp used cheap boxes. Two of the four arrived with the boxes shredded and the wheels falling out.
Ordered a set of BFG KO all terrain rubber. The Generals whine significantly and it aggravates my tinnitus so they have to go.
I wanted to be sure the wheels were OK before swapping tires. The wheels were beat on and dropped in shipment because ProComp used cheap boxes. Two of the four arrived with the boxes shredded and the wheels falling out.
Ordered a set of BFG KO all terrain rubber. The Generals whine significantly and it aggravates my tinnitus so they have to go.
Ordered a set of these inexpensive steps / sliders. Not advertised as "real" sliders but they will give some protection. APS IA03SAC1B.
Stock image, not my photo.
Later on I plan to build my own, as there seem to be no real hard core offroad sliders offered by vendors for Hoes, but I don't have time for that right now and it's a long climb up.
Stock image, not my photo.
Later on I plan to build my own, as there seem to be no real hard core offroad sliders offered by vendors for Hoes, but I don't have time for that right now and it's a long climb up.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
I have a set of those on my wishlist. I’m curious how they do versus the running boards. Also if they are tucked a little higher.
Yeah if they just mount to the pinch weld/seam.....in the even you rub or smash a rock on the trail, you'll do more damage then good.
Mounting of rock rails needs to be considered, IMO, wait and buy the correct set for you desired needs.
Mounting of rock rails needs to be considered, IMO, wait and buy the correct set for you desired needs.
Installed the new longer front driveshaft I had built to regain some engagement at the transfer case. Plus 7/8”. Along with a new boot at the slip splines. And of course new Spicer U-joints with zerks.
The original shaft was working fine, and still had adequate spline engagement, but the boot was under tension and pulled off at one end.
Boring stuff, but an important detail for long term durability.
The original shaft was working fine, and still had adequate spline engagement, but the boot was under tension and pulled off at one end.
Boring stuff, but an important detail for long term durability.
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Curious why greasable joints? I had one fail and have seen many reports of them being weaker especially under load like big tires.
Old habits as much as anything I guess. I’ve had no issues with reliability of the lifetime sealed joints, and I have zero intention to operate this thing in flooded conditions where water intrusion could be a issue. I don’t think strength in this application matters, the front diff will grenade long before the universals get stressed. Most of the stress fractures on universals are front axle shafts where the torque is 3-5x greater.
Dantheman1540
Full Access Member
Oh, come on I wanted to see some deep water crossings! I'm sure they will be fine unless you're doing some neutral dropping, what size joints are they 1350?
No, GM uses something else, I needed to use OEM size to fit the factory yoke at each end. Dana 5-3147X is greasable or 5-795X is lifetime sealed.
Ordered a reusable gasket for the rear diff. Next week I’ll be servicing that. I’m a fan of reusable gaskets because I do change my gear oil periodically, plus if you ever have to do a trailside repair you won’t be fiddling around cleaning and applying RTV and waiting on it to cure. And I don’t like paper or felt. PN LLR-G850.
