Best budget upgrades on a 5.3L rebuild?

[ks03]

Is there another maker of 706 heads besides Castech?

Castech

...and whatever this is

 

[ks03]

I don't know what year or how many miles are on your hoe, but if it over 150K you should replace pistons.
Then if you do
Just have the machine shop bore the block to 6.0L
you have to bore it anyway for new pistons.

Get yourself a set of remanned 862s and leave everything else the same
Good to go. You can even run the same cam and tune is optional. Recommended but optional.

If your hoe lives below 5000rpms and you want more TQ,
That's the best budget upgrade on a 5.3L rebuild.

BTR stage 1 cam would then be the next step up from there.
Then headers
Then TURBO! LOL Its really hard to find a turbo kit for 4WD hoes

gotta plan your build.... don’t buy headers right before turbo

 

[fasteddy]

Is there another maker of 706 heads besides Castech?

I'm going to interpret that as 5.3L heads, cathedrals.

1. Remfg'd 862's are the most budget friendly...$500 (nothing will make more power at low rpms...CD factor)
2. TSP 5.3 would be next on my list. New castings and can order defined compression ratio $1300 outright
but you'll lose TQ at low rpms due to larger intake runner and bigger valves, but Texas speed makes f**king good heads.
3. After that you'll jump to $2K+ with TSP bigger, AFR, TF, TEA......just seach the web.

 

[fasteddy]

gotta plan your build.... don’t buy headers right before turbo

The turbo was LOL, JOKE.....

I'm going through the repower analysis process now too and it goes something like this.
5.3 to .....(assumption my trans is already built)
1. 6.0 is $4K (3 year warranty)
2. 6.6 gas is $9K (3 year warranty)
3. Add turbo to 5.3 or 6.0 is $8K (no warranty, and all the headache of a turbo and I can't even find a 4wd turbo kit)
4. Add Whipple to 5.3 or 6.0 is $11K (no warranty but very dependable)
and my personal fav....
5. Duramax Swap is $25K, 6.6L diesel, Allison 6Spd, 11.5 diff for stage 2 450hp, 800lbs of TQ and 25mpg.
Donor LB7s are so expensive because everyone wants them
But if you think about it though....$5K Stock Tahoe+$25K Durmax Powertrain is 50% of cost of new Tahoe with 3.0L baby ******** duramax.
And the seats suck in a new Tahoe and its 700lbs heavier than mine.

Thats where I am......currently leaning 6.6 gas. (500lbs of TQ, but 10-12MPG)

 

[iamdub]

I don't know what year or how many miles are on your hoe, but if it over 150K you should replace pistons.
Then if you do
Just have the machine shop bore the block to 6.0L
you have to bore it anyway for new pistons.

Get yourself a set of remanned 862s and leave everything else the same
Good to go. You can even run the same cam and tune is optional. Recommended but optional.

If your hoe lives below 5000rpms and you want more TQ,
That's the best budget upgrade on a 5.3L rebuild.

BTR stage 1 cam would then be the next step up from there.
Then headers
Then TURBO! LOL Its really hard to find a turbo kit for 4WD hoes

What's wrong with +150K-mile pistons? And good luck on finding a 5.3 block that can be bored to 4".

 

[fasteddy]

What's wrong with +150K-mile pistons? And good luck on finding a 5.3 block that can be bored to 4".

Pistons are cheap, I would put in new. 862s with LQ4 pistons make 10.6 compression approx
And on a 150K mile engine I would pull it and replace the seals and sensors as well. 18 year old rubber goes bad.
Other folks would just slap on a new head if just one blew and drive on. Completely acceptable.

I've bored a 5.3 to 4.065, its called an iron LS3. I wouldn't boost or spray it, but it works.
Texas Speed used to offer this config as a standard longblock.

I've sleeved a 5.3 to 4.125, with a 4 inch stroke, just a way to make an LS7. Fairly common. Texas speed does it. RED does it.

You could sleeve a 5.3 and use the stock crank and that would make a 388....I've seen folks do that in crazy dirt cars.
Called a destroked LS7 and with the right valvetrain will spin to 10K and make 750hp.

OP asked for budget upgrades.
Cheapest upgrade is more displacement. Rest (cams, manifolds) is all high RPM stuff. Im not sure my hoe has ever even seen 5000rpms.

 

[tRidiot]

So I met with a friend who is going to do the pull and replace. He talked to his rebuilder who actually said he's used 4 or 5 of the crate motors from AutoZone with excellent results. He recommends this over a rebuild, which will run probably $1500 parts and labor or more.

Went and checked them out today at the Zone - $2088 + tax, reuse oil pan, front cover (timing chain cover) and valve covers. $2299 + tax drop in ready. 4 year warranty.

Not bad for essentially hassle free.

Same guy rebuild the 4l60e trans for $1k.

AutoZone - $1446 + tax. 3 year warranty.

I'd figure around $5k tax, install and such out the door. Plus I guess a tune from Black Bear or something?

Interesting idea... complete practically as-factory-new motor and trans... Cost me some more, but a lot quicker than a rebuild and a lot less hassle, I guess.


Thoughts?

 

[iamdub]

Pistons are cheap, I would put in new. 862s with LQ4 pistons make 10.6 compression approx
And on a 150K mile engine I would pull it and replace the seals and sensors as well. 18 year old rubber goes bad.
Other folks would just slap on a new head if just one blew and drive on. Completely acceptable.

I've bored a 5.3 to 4.065, its called an iron LS3. I wouldn't boost or spray it, but it works.
Texas Speed used to offer this config as a standard longblock.

I've sleeved a 5.3 to 4.125, with a 4 inch stroke, just a way to make an LS7. Fairly common. Texas speed does it. RED does it.

You could sleeve a 5.3 and use the stock crank and that would make a 388....I've seen folks do that in crazy dirt cars.
Called a destroked LS7 and with the right valvetrain will spin to 10K and make 750hp.

OP asked for budget upgrades.
Cheapest upgrade is more displacement. Rest (cams, manifolds) is all high RPM stuff. Im not sure my hoe has ever even seen 5000rpms.

OP leads on that he's getting a rebuild- I'd hope that would include new seals! I agree with replacing all the sensors, especially since pretty much all but the coolant temp sensor are hard to reach.

There were a few rare 5.3 blocks that were made from the 6.0 castings and just bored to 3.78". I've heard of a few boring out the 5.3 to a 6.0. But, I doubt they ran for very long unless they were totally babying it. Why would someone bother with boring an engine they're gonna (have to) baby? All I've ever known TSP to offer is sleeved for big-bore 5.3s. Yeah, you can sleeve anything to make it whatever. Regardless, it's all a moot point for the OP cuz none of these are practical for what he wants.

 

[iamdub]

So I met with a friend who is going to do the pull and replace. He talked to his rebuilder who actually said he's used 4 or 5 of the crate motors from AutoZone with excellent results. He recommends this over a rebuild, which will run probably $1500 parts and labor or more.

Went and checked them out today at the Zone - $2088 + tax, reuse oil pan, front cover (timing chain cover) and valve covers. $2299 + tax drop in ready. 4 year warranty.

Not bad for essentially hassle free.

Same guy rebuild the 4l60e trans for $1k.

AutoZone - $1446 + tax. 3 year warranty.

I'd figure around $5k tax, install and such out the door. Plus I guess a tune from Black Bear or something?

Interesting idea... complete practically as-factory-new motor and trans... Cost me some more, but a lot quicker than a rebuild and a lot less hassle, I guess.


Thoughts?

Now you're flippin the script on us. You were looking for budget upgrades to get more out of your 5.3 since it needed a rebuild. Now you're looking at spending a little more for a stock engine. So, if warranty and turnaround time trumps all, then you should be shopping for best rebuilt engine supplier if you're questioning AutoZone's offerings. For this, I have no input.

 

[tRidiot]

Now you're flippin the script on us. You were looking for budget upgrades to get more out of your 5.3 since it needed a rebuild. Now you're looking at spending a little more for a stock engine. So, if warranty and turnaround time trumps all, then you should be shopping for best rebuilt engine supplier if you're questioning AutoZone's offerings. For this, I have no input.

I get that... I don't know that anyone local is going to give me a "better" rebuilt engine than a national company with a long track record? Yes, this is a big project, and if I'm committing to keeping the truck another 3-5 years or more, this is a good investment, I'd think?

It's an evolving situation - but I was hoping to get the swap for under a grand and the rebuild for under a grand. It looks like that's unrealistic in my local market. These guys are local part-time guys who do rebuilds regularly and are quoting higher number than I'd hoped. The one shop with supposedly a great reputation I got a real and solid quote from was about $3700 tax included (with my exchange) out the door and that guy acted like he'd never heard of a problem with the 706 heads - not too confidence-inspiring, if you ask me, from a professional full-time rebuilder. Adding another grand-plus to that and I could get a major national brand rebuilt motor and trans, installed.

Am I being unrealistic? Silly? Stupid? I don't know, that's why I'm coming here for advice, too. Warranty and turnaround don't trump all, but they are factors in a truck that has been sitting 3 months, with family vacation season coming up. In just over 8 weeks I have a 10-day trip to New Mexico planned driving around to Santa Fe and Four Corners, etc. If I have to rent a vehicle for that, it's gonna cost me probably an additional $1200-1500. That would suck major balls if my truck weren't ready by then.


<edit> The 285 HP Scoggin-Dickey reman LM7 mentioned in another thread is $4560.59.

 

[tRidiot]

I see this one from XP for $1999.00.

This Ebay rebuilder has one with 862 heads (warning!) for $2199.

I see this Roadmaster for $2500.

From Tristar, a reman LM7 is $2995.

ATKs at JEGS are $2496.


I'm learning as I go, again, open to advice. That's why I'm asking questions.

 

[fasteddy]

So I met with a friend who is going to do the pull and replace. He talked to his rebuilder who actually said he's used 4 or 5 of the crate motors from AutoZone with excellent results. He recommends this over a rebuild, which will run probably $1500 parts and labor or more.

Went and checked them out today at the Zone - $2088 + tax, reuse oil pan, front cover (timing chain cover) and valve covers. $2299 + tax drop in ready. 4 year warranty.

Not bad for essentially hassle free.

Same guy rebuild the 4l60e trans for $1k.

AutoZone - $1446 + tax. 3 year warranty.

I'd figure around $5k tax, install and such out the door. Plus I guess a tune from Black Bear or something?

Interesting idea... complete practically as-factory-new motor and trans... Cost me some more, but a lot quicker than a rebuild and a lot less hassle, I guess.


Thoughts?

Good Research
Smoking Deal!
5.3 $2088 + core
4 year warranty, prorated. Cant beat that! Big company warranty! Autozone.....Love that stock! Thats almost GMPP.
Totally stock though, no upgrades

6.0 $2529 + core
317 heads (those arent bad if you shave em)
That's a smoking deal too!
Warranty is void with improper installation, which probably means NO 6.0s in place of 5.3s (if they find out)
But they don't know because you pick up and drop off if failure occurs. Gray area....I'd go 6.0L, sell your short block, eat the core and live dangerously LOL!

No LBZs..... :-( Booooooo


Why do you need a tune?
You thinking 6.0L?

 

[Tonyrodz]

Good Research
Smoking Deal!
5.3 $2088 + core
4 year warranty, prorated. Cant beat that! Big company warranty! Autozone.....Love that stock! Thats almost GMPP.
Totally stock though, no upgrades

6.0 $2529 + core
317 heads (those arent bad if you shave em)
That's a smoking deal too!
Warranty is void with improper installation, which probably means NO 6.0s in place of 5.3s (if they find out)
But they don't know because you pick up and drop off if failure occurs. Gray area....I'd go 6.0L, sell your short block, eat the core and live dangerously LOL!

No LBZs..... :-( Booooooo


Why do you need a tune?
You thinking 6.0L?

What's wrong with the 317's?

 

[fasteddy]

What's wrong with the 317's?

Nothing....if you want low compression and less power
You can shave them though to increase compression, but they'll never match the compression of the
862.

That was a very popular recipe though in early,mid 2000s
Stock 6.0 + shaved 317s + cam = almost 500hp

So AutoZone 6.0
Pull the heads and shave and springs
Stuff in cam
Tbss manifold
Headers
Install and tune and got yourself a new 480-500hp motor
About 4k in cost
Good deal

This thread is from 2005 lol
Milling 6.0L 317 Heads (ls2.com)

 

[tRidiot]

Good Research
Smoking Deal!
5.3 $2088 + core
4 year warranty, prorated. Cant beat that! Big company warranty! Autozone.....Love that stock! Thats almost GMPP.
Totally stock though, no upgrades

So you think this is a good idea? I'm just asking, sometimes it's hard to read sarcasm online and with some of the incredulity I've seen I am just checking. Again, this is all new to me, I've never done a motor or had a motor replaced in any vehicle, so I'm checking around.

 

[Mudsport96]

Ok... so flat out, why do you think you need to rebuild or replace the entire engine? You had a head problem right? Just replace the heads.

275k isnt high for a 5.3 in my book. My Silverado has 400k on it and when i was at the dealership i saw delivery vans with 500k on them.

You are looking at spending money you dont need too.
If the engine has oil pressure and is not knocking, get some 862 or 706 heads and put it back together and go man.
If you want to do a cam, do that and a set of springs and go. No need for fancy stuff.

 

[ls1frc]

I can help from a power perspective...

Stock 5.3 was painful, I'd floor it and it wouldn't move. 0-60 was 8.6 seconds. I hated driving it.

I decided to upgrade..

Did PRC LS6 heads, a BTR truck cam, headers, and tuning. This made a nice difference in cruising power and it wasn't painful to drive anymore. 0-60 was 7.2 seconds.

Of course that still wasn't enough, so I went ahead and did the 6.2 swap. Mods in my signature. That dropped the 0-60 down to 5.3 seconds, consistently.

Hindsight being 20/20, I would have done the DOD delete on the 5.3 still but would have just went right to a Magnuson or something and been done with it.

 

[fasteddy]

I can help from a power perspective...

Stock 5.3 was painful, I'd floor it and it wouldn't move. 0-60 was 8.6 seconds. I hated driving it.

I decided to upgrade..

Did PRC LS6 heads, a BTR truck cam, headers, and tuning. This made a nice difference in cruising power and it wasn't painful to drive anymore. 0-60 was 7.2 seconds.

Of course that still wasn't enough, so I went ahead and did the 6.2 swap. Mods in my signature. That dropped the 0-60 down to 5.3 seconds, consistently.

Hindsight being 20/20, I would have done the DOD delete on the 5.3 still but would have just went right to a Magnuson or something and been done with it.

Yeah Baby! LS3!
I wish.....I wish I could go LT1/10L90
You have to remember that this is the Vintage Tahoe section where we live on 24X reluctor wheels and can't just buy an LS3/L92 crate and slam it in. If I could I'd just go LS3/525 or the new 6.6. I wish it were that easy.
But we are the forgotten Generation of Gen III and relegated to crates of 5.3 and 6.0 unless you build from scratch. Then you may as well go 6.6 cuz it's the same work.

But I agree with you. My 5.3 in a 5000lb vehicle feels anemic and my braking zone is way too long.

 

[fasteddy]

So you think this is a good idea? I'm just asking, sometimes it's hard to read sarcasm online and with some of the incredulity I've seen I am just checking. Again, this is all new to me, I've never done a motor or had a motor replaced in any vehicle, so I'm checking around.

No sarcasm.
That's a good find.
Its a good deal....I swear. Especially if you've never done an engine before.
I've had lots of anxiety with vehicles at shops getting engines, heads, tunes, exhaust, bodywork, paint etc.
My cars have NEVER sustained as much damage as they have in shops.....(body shops are the worst with all that dust)
All shops seek to maximize their profit and minimize the work and maybe you get a startup warranty which sucks
Can't beat the AutoZone warranty....If they did installs I would say do it there too.

Depends on your application.
If its just a daily driver or you want to dump it afterwards and you want to move on to the Scout? then isolate the problem,
tear down to the problem and fix only that. Completely acceptable approach. I rarely do that. When I tear stuff down I have to optimize the rebuild, its just me.

But if you want a little ZIP with reliability do the 6.0. You can feel the difference immediately.

 

[tRidiot]

I'm not overly worried about more power. I don't EVER put my foot to the floor, and it's rare I put my foot IN it. Seriously, it's not a hotrod machine to me, it'll drink gas like an alcoholic and I've got a 370Z for my "I wanna have fun driving" days.

Do I NEED to get a whole rebuild or replacement? No, I don't, but I really don't feel comfortable with a top-half rebuild and a 275k lower end and transmission. Not in a vehicle I'm going to be doing family vacations 1000 miles or more from home. Maybe it's silly, I don't know, but it's just a comfort level thing for me. For this vehicle, reliability and comfort is much more important than performance.

Guy just trailered it off... he's gonna talk to his rebuilder and get a 'ballpark' for the rebuild. My main concern with the LM7 swapout (this is an L59) is a tiny bit of loss in power. Not much, but ~20HP might very well make it feel a bit anemic - especially since I have 3 alternators which already will sap a bit of power. I think the transmission rebuild for a grand is probably fine, don't need to spend $1600 on a factory reman - the warranty is one thing, but honestly, if something like the motor or trans is gonna crater, I'd expect it in the first few thousand miles or month or three.