Audio, side view cameras, 2nd Battery, Big 3
- Thread starter Chrismnj
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Looks good.... when I did the "Big 3" upgrade i used 2/0 tinned copper shielded marine grade cable and soldered the terminals on and used the marine grade heat shrink that has adhesive inside.
The bigger cable barely fits through the RVC sensor.
Anyway... lots of debate on crimping VS soldering. Personally I prefer soldering although crimping is much faster and easier.
The most important part, IMO, no matter which route you take is heat shrinking the ends, like you did, to keep the moisture from getting in and corroding things.
Sorry to hijack your thread.... carry on.
The bigger cable barely fits through the RVC sensor.
Anyway... lots of debate on crimping VS soldering. Personally I prefer soldering although crimping is much faster and easier.
The most important part, IMO, no matter which route you take is heat shrinking the ends, like you did, to keep the moisture from getting in and corroding things.
Sorry to hijack your thread.... carry on.
Good job, I am not there yet as far a big 3, just hooking up 2nd battery for now, but definitely shrink tubing the ends is very important, I didn't take a pic of but I also run electrical tape where wire insulation meets terminal.
mazdawg(Mikey)
HGIC(head ginger in charge)
Those under mirror cameras are pretty dope. Are they Ibeam as well?
only the housings, I have change the cameras because Ibeam have IR in them and they were reflecting of side mirror and paint blinding the image.
mazdawg(Mikey)
HGIC(head ginger in charge)
Ah good to know!
Just picked up Optima redtop 34R at local Advance Auto for $197.43, with core refund and tax, regular price was $259.99 + Tax, I think it was a good deal,
battery spec:
C20 Capacity:50 Ah
CCA:800 Amp
Reserve Capacity @25 Amps:100 Minutes
Group Size:BCI: 34
Internal Resistance:0.003
CA:1000 Amp
battery spec:
C20 Capacity:50 Ah
CCA:800 Amp
Reserve Capacity @25 Amps:100 Minutes
Group Size:BCI: 34
Internal Resistance:0.003
CA:1000 Amp
Last edited:
you juts did one negative wire through the sensor correct? or you split past the sensor?
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Yes just one. It comes off the negative post of the battery, continues through the RVC sensor, and terminates at the factory location on the front of the passenger cylinder head. I also added another cable from the same location at the cylinder head down to the frame rail, terminating at the upper strut mount.
And here is a pic of the positive lead from the alternator...
I saw this video about going with negative to alternator, might go this route and split from there.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
It certainly wouldn't hurt anything.
only thing is I got my alternator powder coated black so I guess I be grinding it off a bit.
Last edited:
I just noticed you have your 175Amp fuse on firewall, mine is on a battery post. Have you relocated yours or thats OEM?
justinesky
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2015
- Posts
- 183
- Reaction score
- 48
This is all such good info. i did a lot of this a few years ago. Make sure you send down the powder coat where the alt meets any metal. I also ran a ground from my second battery to the alt bolt at the alt that says GND. You guys give me more ideas...
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
It's OEM for pre '08... '09+ changed to the style you have.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I repurposed my original cable that went from the alternator to the **** fuse. It now goes from the same ground spot on the alternator bracket to the bolt on the firewall that has the braided cable going to the back of the drivers side head.
At some point I want to add a second battery also.
Yours is much better, I might just order one from 08
