I hope I bought the right parts

[Eltoxico]

I've been creeping these forums for the past couple months while deciding which parts to buy for a basic 2 to 3" lift/level and bigger tires without breaking the bank.

Quick backstory, last year a few months before I got deployed, I bought Big Bertha, a 2005 Yukon SLT 4x4, at a decent price of $4500. Got her at 183K miles and did an oil change, checked fluids, fixed a few minor check engine light issues, airbag sensors and replaced the worn rear brakes with Power Stop K2046-36 Rear Z36. Took her on a 2.5k mile round trip from Seattle area to San Diego. It's in decent condition but it needs further service now that's she's at 203k miles. She rocks a lot when cars pass me, especially big rigs, so I'm replacing struts and springs. She has the Smooth Ride suspension with fat struts and ZW7/G65 codes. She also needs new tires. Now that I'm back from deployment, I'm giving her a BBL then taking her on that trip again next weekend.

Big Bertha came with Pathfinder Sport AT 265/70/R16 tires on aftermarket rims. I don't like how small those tires look on the huge wheel wells so I'm looking at 33's/BFGoodRich 285/75/R16. So I bought the following last night on Amazon:

Supreme Suspensions 2" Spacers - $50
Supreme Suspensions 1 - 3" Torsion Keys - $90
Bumpers - $11
MOOG 81069 Coil Spring Set - $69
Moog K160072 Coil Spring Insulator - x2 $22
Bilstein 24-186643 Front Shocks and Bilstein 24-187237 Rear Shocks - $375
Total around $675 after taxes.

Suspension:
I'm starting to think I should of instead bought the Bilstein 24-185783 for the Rear since they're rated for 3" lift and I'm adding a 2" spacer in the rear and I just read somewhere that the Moog 81069 adds an extra 1 to 2" in lift. I'm also considering towing my wife's 3258lb car during the trip if my transmission can handle it. Any tips on this will be greatly appreciated. Is the setup I purchased a good enough suspension upgrade for heavy cargo during family road trips, towing and clearance for 33's or should I switch to other parts? Everything I bought has a 30 day return period.

Brakes:
I'm still researching if I can do a big brake upgrade for the front. Don't know if the NNBS+ setup fits inside my 16" wheels. Alternatively, looking at Power Stop K2009-36 Front Z36. Big bertha has dual piston calipers all around already. Not sure if it comes like that from factory or if the previous owner installed them.

Performance:
Considering upgrading intake and exhaust, then tuning once suspension and brakes are done, most likely after the road trip. What do you guys have or recommend?

Sorry for the long post. All input is appreciated. My ultimate use goal for Big Bertha is for roadtrips, camping, overlanding, Baja trips, and towing no heavier than a car or travel trailer.

 

[LordWayback]

All lifted 2000’s gms shake going down the highway running slightly lower tire pressure sometimes helps or a steering stabilizer another thing is the pitman and idler arms they are sloppy even new ones unless you upgrade , my front wheel hubs are bad and that’s why mine vibrates

 

[Alex_M]

None of my lifted GMs shake going down the highway.

The parts listed should work out fine. I think you're right on the shock choice - particularly if towing, the shorter shock will be better.

BFG is a good tire. If you haven't already, also look at the Falken AT3W. I much prefer them to the BFG, personally, but to each their own.

 

[Eltoxico]

All lifted 2000’s gms shake going down the highway running slightly lower tire pressure sometimes helps or a steering stabilizer another thing is the pitman and idler arms they are sloppy even new ones unless you upgrade , my front wheel hubs are bad and that’s why mine vibrates

What do you recommend upgrading pitman and idler arms to?

None of my lifted GMs shake going down the highway.

The parts listed should work out fine. I think you're right on the shock choice - particularly if towing, the shorter shock will be better.

BFG is a good tire. If you haven't already, also look at the Falken AT3W. I much prefer them to the BFG, personally, but to each their own.

Thanks for clarifying regarding the rear shocks. I had no idea shorter shocks were better for towing. Do you know why?
I haven't looked in to the AT3W's yet. Why do you prefer them over the BFG?

 

[LordWayback]

What do you recommend upgrading pitman and idler arms to?



Thanks for clarifying regarding the rear shocks. I had no idea shorter shocks were better for towing. Do you know why?
I haven't looked in to the AT3W's yet. Why do you prefer them over the BFG?

Super steer makes good stuff so does kryptonite but currently I’m running trq stuff that was put on in a emergency but as stuff goes out I’ll put better stuff to clarify my truck shakes due to my bad hubs (extremely common) and one shredded wheel that’s unbalanced if you want unkillable tie rods you want heim joint swap tie rods

 

[Sam Harris]

The shock length is important, to provide full shock travel if lifted more than factory height. I’m not sure how a shorter shock would be better for towing. If your shocks are the factory length, but you’re lifted 2-3”, your shocks will reach their limit, and cause the suspension travel to immediately, jarringly stop. That’s not a good thing. You can use shock extension brackets, or purchase a longer shock to match your lift. I used the Bilstein 5100’s up front, while all I did for lift, was crank up the torsion bars, but it did lift approximately 2”. The pitman and idler arms can be replaced with OEM stuff, and will be fine (if they need replacement) make sure your jounce stops continue to make contact with the control arm, as these are a critical component of the torsion bar suspension. They provide a fulcrum point for the bar, and if that contact is missing, the torsion bars become very “bouncy”. I installed new jounce stops, and a small poly spacer, to close the gap, and ensure continued contact. (I believe spec is 0-1/4” while the vehicle is sitting at rest, meaning with it’s full weight on the suspension) Ensure the suspension is tight all around, check for any play in all ball joints, tie rods, control arms, etc.. also ensure the wheel hubs have no play (though this is just to cover the bases, not related to your issue)

 

[Alex_M]

What do you recommend upgrading pitman and idler arms to?



Thanks for clarifying regarding the rear shocks. I had no idea shorter shocks were better for towing. Do you know why?
I haven't looked in to the AT3W's yet. Why do you prefer them over the BFG?

Only because the rear end will be squatted. You'll be less likely to bottom the shocks out. That is, of course, only if the Monroe's you mentioned to in fact have a greater extended length than factory.

They're a bit quieter in my experience, last a long time (I got 65k out of a set that was pretty abused), more impressed with the performance at least here on the east coast with the snow and mud.

 

[Eltoxico]

Super steer makes good stuff so does kryptonite but currently I’m running trq stuff that was put on in a emergency but as stuff goes out I’ll put better stuff to clarify my truck shakes due to my bad hubs (extremely common) and one shredded wheel that’s unbalanced if you want unkillable tie rods you want heim joint swap tie rods

Thanks. I'll look in to these.

The shock length is important, to provide full shock travel if lifted more than factory height. I’m not sure how a shorter shock would be better for towing. If your shocks are the factory length, but you’re lifted 2-3”, your shocks will reach their limit, and cause the suspension travel to immediately, jarringly stop. That’s not a good thing. You can use shock extension brackets, or purchase a longer shock to match your lift. I used the Bilstein 5100’s up front, while all I did for lift, was crank up the torsion bars, but it did lift approximately 2”. The pitman and idler arms can be replaced with OEM stuff, and will be fine (if they need replacement) make sure your jounce stops continue to make contact with the control arm, as these are a critical component of the torsion bar suspension. They provide a fulcrum point for the bar, and if that contact is missing, the torsion bars become very “bouncy”. I installed new jounce stops, and a small poly spacer, to close the gap, and ensure continued contact. (I believe spec is 0-1/4” while the vehicle is sitting at rest, meaning with it’s full weight on the suspension) Ensure the suspension is tight all around, check for any play in all ball joints, tie rods, control arms, etc.. also ensure the wheel hubs have no play (though this is just to cover the bases, not related to your issue)

Thanks, I believe the front Bilstein shocks I purchased are for 2 to 4" lifts to accomodate the torsion keys I ordered. The rear I believe are rated for 0 to 2" lifts. With the 2" spacers I got and the possible 1" additional lift the Moog z71 springs might give it, I might have to either get the shock extenders or remove the spacers. I'll try it with the spacers first and remove them before the trip if they feel funky. I'll check the pitman and idler arms during installation and replace them if needed. I did order new jounce stops but where did you get your poly spacers from incase I need them?

Only because the rear end will be squatted. You'll be less likely to bottom the shocks out. That is, of course, only if the Monroe's you mentioned to in fact have a greater extended length than factory.

They're a bit quieter in my experience, last a long time (I got 65k out of a set that was pretty abused), more impressed with the performance at least here on the east coast with the snow and mud.

I was hoping not to squat with the 2" spacers I'm installing. We'll see how she holds up with the car fully loaded for the road trip and while towing, if I do tow soon. As far as the AT3's, after further looking in to them, I guess I'll go for what's cheaper and available vs the BFG KO2's. Both these tires seem to be the top choice from what I've read.


I finally received all parts. I will be installing them tomorrow.

 

[Alex_M]

You'll definitely still squat with the spacers; spacers will have no effect on spring rate. You'll just start squatting 2" higher than you would have without.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Good luck!

 

[Sam Harris]

Thanks. I'll look in to these.

Thanks, I believe the front Bilstein shocks I purchased are for 2 to 4" lifts to accomodate the torsion keys I ordered. The rear I believe are rated for 0 to 2" lifts. With the 2" spacers I got and the possible 1" additional lift the Moog z71 springs might give it, I might have to either get the shock extenders or remove the spacers. I'll try it with the spacers first and remove them before the trip if they feel funky. I'll check the pitman and idler arms during installation and replace them if needed. I did order new jounce stops but where did you get your poly spacers from incase I need them?


I was hoping not to squat with the 2" spacers I'm installing. We'll see how she holds up with the car fully loaded for the road trip and while towing, if I do tow soon. As far as the AT3's, after further looking in to them, I guess I'll go for what's cheaper and available vs the BFG KO2's. Both these tires seem to be the top choice from what I've read.


I finally received all parts. I will be installing them tomorrow.

I got the spacers from energy suspension, IIRC, I figured out the parts I wanted on their site and then ordered from that jungle website.. a little cheaper. YMMV.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops.asp

 

[Eltoxico]

You'll definitely still squat with the spacers; spacers will have no effect on spring rate. You'll just start squatting 2" higher than you would have without.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Good luck!

Thanks for the clarification. The new springs are actually 2" taller than the ones that came off my Yukon. I guess they might ve the original springs that are hella worn out?

I got the spacers from energy suspension, IIRC, I figured out the parts I wanted on their site and then ordered from that jungle website.. a little cheaper. YMMV.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-bump-stops.asp

Lol. Jungle website. Thanks for the info.

 

[Eltoxico]

Just like a child with a new toy, I couldn't wait till tomorrow to start wrenching. So I started hitting it from the back. I removed the rear shocks and springs. Not sure if these are the originals but they sure look like it. The original spring is 2" smaller than the new Moog Z71 81068 springs. Bilstein rear is 1.25" taller than stock. I can't wait to see what the ride quality difference is like once this is complete.

I unbolted the swaybar links and the brake lines from the differential. I couldn't drop the differential low enough to fit the spacers with the springs due to a line that is connected to the forward top right side of the differential to the fueling panel. Any idea what this is? Looks like I'm going to have to rent a spring compressor from the parts store if I want to add the spacers. Going to sleep on it.

Tomorrow I'll finish the rear and do the front, hopefully. Also, should I treat the rust where the springs mount on the top? What do you guys use? It looks pretty bad.

 

[Sam Harris]

Thanks for the clarification. The new springs are actually 2" taller than the ones that came off my Yukon. I guess they might ve the original springs that are hella worn out? View attachment 397622


Lol. Jungle website. Thanks for the info.

Yup, those Z71 springs are longer, and stiffer than your factory springs on your Yukon. SLT / SLE? Do you have the Nivomats? Sorry, too many threads, and I forgot.. (Nivomats are RPO: ZW7) “Premium Smooth Ride” if you do have them, how many miles on them? Those shocks make up the difference for the smaller, softer springs. They’re honestly pretty amazing in my opinion, for the tech of the day.

ETA: Re-read your first post in the thread. So yes, the factory springs are ZW7, and were not necessarily worn out. They’re made smaller, with less capacity than the standard springs, due to having the self-leveling Nivomats. There is also a 3rd spring option, for the non-nivomats, which would be in-between the capacity and size of the ZW7, and the Z71 springs. So you’ve got another inch or so of height, since you went with the Z71 springs. After purchasing my SLT, with ZW7, I had initially decided to replace mine with standard shocks, and Z71 springs, but ended up changing my mind, and stuck with the Nivomats. I’m very happy with them, just wish they weren’t so expensive to replace.

ETA2: The hose you referred to is the diff vent tube. You shouldn’t have any problem disconnecting it for work on the suspension, just make sure you reattach when you’re done.

ETA3: I’d clean up the rust with a wire wheel if you can get one in there. Guessing you don’t have much room though. Maybe a dremel, to clean it up? If you can manage to get the corrosion off, I’d then clean it with something like denatured alcohol, and once dry, put a good coat of POR15 on it, or even just some black chassis type spray paint.

 

[Eltoxico]

Yup, those Z71 springs are longer, and stiffer than your factory springs on your Yukon. SLT / SLE? Do you have the Nivomats? Sorry, too many threads, and I forgot.. (Nivomats are RPO: ZW7) “Premium Smooth Ride” if you do have them, how many miles on them? Those shocks make up the difference for the smaller, softer springs. They’re honestly pretty amazing in my opinion, for the tech of the day.

ETA: Re-read your first post in the thread. So yes, the factory springs are ZW7, and were not necessarily worn out. They’re made smaller, with less capacity than the standard springs, due to having the self-leveling Nivomats. There is also a 3rd spring option, for the non-nivomats, which would be in-between the capacity and size of the ZW7, and the Z71 springs. So you’ve got another inch or so of height, since you went with the Z71 springs. After purchasing my SLT, with ZW7, I had initially decided to replace mine with standard shocks, and Z71 springs, but ended up changing my mind, and stuck with the Nivomats. I’m very happy with them, just wish they weren’t so expensive to replace.

ETA2: The hose you referred to is the diff vent tube. You shouldn’t have any problem disconnecting it for work on the suspension, just make sure you reattach when you’re done.

ETA3: I’d clean up the rust with a wire wheel if you can get one in there. Guessing you don’t have much room though. Maybe a dremel, to clean it up? If you can manage to get the corrosion off, I’d then clean it with something like denatured alcohol, and once dry, put a good coat of POR15 on it, or even just some black chassis type spray paint.

I did think about replacing with new Nivomats but I decided to do Z71 Springs and Bilstein 5100's all around. I had read before that the Z71 springs were only 1" taller than the Premium Smooth Ride ZW7 springs. That's why I was confused and thought my springs were worn but thanks for the clarification. I ended up buying spring compressors to fit the springs in with the spacers.

Everything else in the rear went pretty smooth after. I ended up cleaning the rust using the same method I use at work to remove corrosion on Aircraft airframe components. I used alcoho to clean with a wire brush, and CPC to treat it. Basically same method you said. Just with free stuff I tactically acquired from work.

 

[Eltoxico]

Finished the front side today. Torsion keys were on there pretty good. I ended up spraying PB Blaster twice a day for 2 days and banging them with a 4lb hammer till they finally came lose. I bought a BernzomaticTS8000KC Premium Torch Kit as a plan B but didn't end up using it. Plac C was to rent a Rotary Hammer Drill and banging at the torsion bar where the key is at. Glad I didn't have to do all that. I love you PB Blaster (even though you smell like death.)

Using the Supreme Suspensions Tosrion Key tool semed a little harder to use than the C Clamp torsion key tools I've seen people on YouTube using. It just wouldn't sit in place properly on the top side of the crossmeber while tightening/moving the torsion keys up. Made it work after struggling for a bit. Front shocks were the easiest to put on. The wheel well cover got in the way while removing the nut on the top side of the nut. It would of been easier if I had used a ratcheting wrench. Next on my shopping list. Old struts and bushing were very worn out. Notnsure if they're the original that came from the factory.

All done with suspension for now. New tires, or maybe even bigger wheels and tires tomorrow, then alignment. Next on my list, maybe a few weeks after the trip, is replacing all bushings, ball joints, pitman arms, etc.

 

[E-Force]

Thanks. I'll look in to these.

Thanks, I believe the front Bilstein shocks I purchased are for 2 to 4" lifts to accomodate the torsion keys I ordered. The rear I believe are rated for 0 to 2" lifts. With the 2" spacers I got and the possible 1" additional lift the Moog z71 springs might give it, I might have to either get the shock extenders or remove the spacers. I'll try it with the spacers first and remove them before the trip if they feel funky. I'll check the pitman and idler arms during installation and replace them if needed. I did order new jounce stops but where did you get your poly spacers from incase I need them?


I was hoping not to squat with the 2" spacers I'm installing. We'll see how she holds up with the car fully loaded for the road trip and while towing, if I do tow soon. As far as the AT3's, after further looking in to them, I guess I'll go for what's cheaper and available vs the BFG KO2's. Both these tires seem to be the top choice from what I've read.


I finally received all parts. I will be installing them tomorrow.

It is my understanding that torsion bars are only needed for lowering the front end, not lifting the front end. Is this correct?