Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

[petethepug]

I don’t know anymore. All my enthusiast tech buddies from dealerships have moved on. Time will tell what Arnott is up to with only re-purchasing customers used front z55 cores and selling both the 95 & 55 fronts as cross compatible.

It’s also strange Arnott removed the lifetime warranty April last year. Not sure if they did that to their entire product line or not.

 

[petethepug]

My head is spinning. There's so much misinformation and cr@p available online for replacement struts and shocks for this 09 Escalade. @justchecking thread got me grounded when he replaced the z55 struts and OEM springs on his 11 Burb. He found different part #'s for the L/R springs here ...

You would think they would have to match so something was up.
I replaced both shocks (GM 19420492) and both springs (GM 20842474 Left and GM 20842473 Right).

@swathdiver verified one post later that both the struts on his two trucks are the same. Fortunately, I found a dealership store online that verified compatibility with two factory numbers using the same coil spring on both sides for my Esky. I'll post up the info (info added 7 days later below) after I get the cold steel in my grimy hands. Anyway, a set of front OEM spring have been ordered and on the way.

20842473 shows as compatable for both the L/R.

I completely veered away from buying a preloaded set with all the components assembled. Getting the lifetime guarantee on the OEM / BWI / AC Delco z95 magride struts is too good a deal for down the road budgeting.

 

[petethepug]

Dropped the hammer on the majority of the parts needed for the front end rebuild. This was a dent to the pocketbook, but all in the big plan. It was the reason for selling the 08 YXL Denali a few years ago. If I was going to rebuild the suspension on a keeper vehicle, I'd rather have it be an e85, non-AFM truck that didn't need a total respray in black because GM's clear coat disintegrating.

BTW the GM Part Number: 19420992 above had Supersession from the old MagRide strut #19353951. R/A doesn't share that info but GM websites do. BTW the current dealer retail on these is $681.82 ea.


R/A won out on the majority of the parts ordered because of pricing, shipping and that awesome 5% discount that more than offset the shipping charges. The OEM MagRide/z95 were only $309.79 ea for the fronts.

I'll find out when the strut mounts come in if they're really needed. I can't tell if there's an internal rubber bushing sandwiched inside the part or not. Obviously if there's no rubber bushing, I'll return them because the metal caps don't wear.

So far the part scrounging, including the updated list of Aluminum suspension and their bushings on the 1st page totals $1,522.17.

 

[petethepug]

Fortunately getting busy and blowing my budget last year on a new trans helped with several issues I was coming up against when it came time to rebuild the front end.

1) Discovered the front end can get the XFE lightweight alum treatment to save on weight.

2) FastGas on the CF discovered that the OEM 22" rims interfere with the CTS-V Brembo 6 pot caliper upgrade .5" longer studs and .5" spacers are needed up front ...

New 08 EXT - about to begin whipple build, some questions

www.cadillacforums.com

3) @skpyle discovered that...

If I were running the original, or OEM replacement brake hoses, then the new GM banjo bolts would have fit just fine. However, the banjo fittings on the Powerstop braided steel hoses are thinner than the stock line fittings. It felt to me like the GM banjo bolts would bottom out in the calipers. I could not use the banjo bolts included with the Powerstop braided lines...

So while the hubs are being swap'd out for the front end rebuild I'll have the OEM wheel studs pressed out and .5" longer ones installed along with the .5" wheel spacers. This will be one less step that'll have to be completed when the CTS-V BBK kit gets installed as well as a labor saver. Borrowed the pics below from FastGas

 

[petethepug]

The strut mount GM shows specific to z55/95 vehicles is pricey. $142 x2 shipped was painful. The aftermarket that showed as comprible in some places and not in others, came in different shapes and didn't have some of the holes drilled around the brim of its hat like the OEM version.

It took R/A 48 hours to ship all the parts to me from back East. I'm impressed. More importantly I'm able to nail down that these strut caps are actually bearings. The strut caps do have a rubber donut pressed into crowned dome that's Non serviceable. They have to be replaced or you'll have just one more area for your struts to rattle around on.

 

[iamdub]

The strut mount GM shows specific to z55/95 vehicles is pricey. $142 x2 shipped was painful. The aftermarket that showed as comprible in some places and not in others, came in different shapes and didn't have some of the holes drilled around the brim of its hat like the OEM version.

It took R/A 48 hours to ship all the parts to me from back East. I'm impressed. More importantly I'm able to nail down that these strut caps are actually bearings. The strut caps do have a rubber donut pressed into crowned dome that's Non serviceable. They have to be replaced or you'll have just one more area for your struts to rattle around on.

View attachment 421724

I wonder what the functional difference is to the Z95 and/or Z55 mount. I converted my Z55 to "dumb" struts when I lowered using the Belltech SP adjustable struts that apply across the board for SUVs and trucks, active suspension or not. They fit my Z55 mounts just fine.

I was given some sub-6K-mile struts from a 2021 Sierra. I wanted them for the mounts and boots to replace my 230K-mile originals. I hope I can use the mounts. It might be just something else I "make happen".

 

[petethepug]

I saw a pic of the 15-20 strut mount and it looked like the top and bottom cutouts in the mount were offset so the stem of the strut had to stab through at an angle.

I stumbled across a complete set of GM / BWI 15-20 z95 front & rear struts and the fronts were loaded with the springs and all the ancillaries for $840 on eBay. Purposely didn’t save the link so I wouldn’t be tempted to shortcut and possibly get and incompatible set.

 

[petethepug]

World Parts Direct / WPD was the best deal for OEM replacement front springs. I’m sure their 7 day shipping had something to do with it.

# 20842473 is what GM shows as the correct spring for almost all 6.2L Yukes, Esky, hybrids & some Silverado. $264.54 delivered (ouch) from the WPD store on Amazon

# 20842474 &
# 20842472
also show as compatible but NLA or ****! Gone. Depending on where you look they’re specific to the R or L side. I found info on a GM Dealer site that 20842473 works on both L & R. Since there’s only NOS of that spring left on the planet, that’s what I went with.

For you Esky owners wanting to build your own loaded z95 replacement struts, the best bang for using OEM parts is $675.60 or a set for $1,351.20.

If you grab the Monroe springs mentioned below, the price goes down to $568.33 ea using aftermarket springs. Not bad considering with either spring you get a lifetime guraantee on the struts from GM. Keep in mind todays date is 2-20-24.

Yea, there’s a Sprite can in there for scale.

 

[petethepug]

MONROE AFTERMARKET SPRING FOR THE Z55/Z95 ARE BEING CLEARANCED OUT ON THE INTERNET FOR $25 EA.

They're a discontinued shock from GM and Monroe is dumping all theirs too. Part # 900132. Verify if you're buying a set or individually.

 

[iamdub]

MONROE AFTERMARKET SPRING FOR THE Z55/Z95 ARE BEING CLEARANCED OUT ON THE INTERNET FOR $25 EA.

They're a discontinued shock from GM and Monroe is dumping all theirs too. Part # 900132. Verify if you're buying a set or individually.

Any idea how these ride compared to the OEM springs? It's really tempting to get a set. But, in trying to determine how it'd ride by comparison, I see your OEM ones have about 6.5 coils and the Monroes have about 5.5. This tells me it has a higher spring rate.

I just checked the strut assemblies I have from the '21 Sierra (which may have been an AT4). They have 4.75 coils. Makes sense, being a 4WD truck strut. I couldn't see my stock Z55 coils to count those. I'd have to put it in the air to get under it.

 

[petethepug]

Not sure on the ride or if the photo is correct. Maybe check some other sellers pictures or see if a seller can verify hands on for you. Ty for that very important detail that got past me.

 

[randeez]

i think you also need tie rod ends specific to the aluminum knuckles

 

[iamdub]

Not sure on the ride or if the photo is correct. Maybe check some other sellers pictures or see if a seller can verify hands on for you. Ty for that very important detail that got past me.

I was looking at actual part pics in ebay listings. I'm thinking the Monroes are actual photos and they would have a little higher spring rate since they're intended as a conversion from the active stuff. Still, $50 for a pair of new coils is a deal for anyone not looking for as much cushiness as they can get. I'm thinking my older Z55 coils should be a little weaker/softer, having 230K miles on 'em and my firm ride is from the Belltech struts as they're tuned more for sporty handling.

 

[Coolman1987us]

Also the use of "hub" when referring to the knuckle or, as it's more commonly called, the "spindle".

Wouldn't a spindle be the 2wd version? Knuckle has a hole for the cv shaft?

 

[iamdub]

Wouldn't a spindle be the 2wd version? Knuckle has a hole for the cv shaft?

Technically, our trucks don't have spindles. The 2WD and 4WD/AWD models have knuckles with hubs bolted to them.

Your comment would apply to a vehicle such as the S-series and the GMT400 and older trucks. The 2WD had a spindle on the knuckle and the hub/rotor assembly slid onto that. The 4WD had a knuckle with a hole for the CV stub shaft to go through and engage the hub, which was bolted to the knuckle.

 

[petethepug]

One of the generic sets of aluminum lower control arms came with tie rod ends. You may be on to something. There was no description or part numbers. I’ll start digging into this. Ty

i think you also need tie rod ends specific to the aluminum knuckles

 

[petethepug]

@randeez a big thank you. The aluminum knuckles do require different tie rod ends.

Also thanks to Amazon for free overnight shipping, and on a Sunday too. I finally have the Beef on what is needed to covert a full size 07-14 / NNBS / Gen 4 GM SUV to Aluminum Upper & Lower control Arms and Aluminum Knuckles besides the requirement for Aluminum Lower Control Arms:

Do NOT use the Original or aftermarket OEM 07-14 outer tie rod ends Part #’s for the ends when using steel UCA, LCA & Knuckles ...

• GM GENUINE 15254061
• MOOG ES800223
• ACDELCO 45A1092
• or equivalent

Do USE Original or aftermarket OEM 15-19 outer tie rod ends Part #’s for ends when when doing the conversion...

• GM GENUINE 22834082
• MOOG ES800948
• ACDELCO 45A2563 Gold
• or equivalent

I didn't go out and buy a micrometer from China Freight to measure the taper on both tie rod ends. I was able to slide both the (Gen 4) 07-14 & (Gen 5) 15-20 tie rod ends into the new aluminum knuckle assemblies.

The Gen 4 tie rod ends DO NOT FIT and are sloppy in the aluminum knuckles. They have tons of end play when bottomed out and tightened up.

The Gen 5 tie rod ends ARE THE FIT. You can tell that once they're torqued down there'll be no play.

Both of the Gen 4 & 5 tie rod ends thread on to the 07-14 hydraulic steering rack. One of them screws on to the rack with 20 threads remaining and the other has 25 threads left before that tie rod end bottoms out on the OEM rack.

The lower half of the pic has the 07-14 tie rod end with the finer threads.

* The 15-20 / Gen 5 tie rod ends I'll be using have a different slotted nut or Nylock / TTY nut ... M14x2.0x18, 30 inside diameter. It's Part # 11609283. Apparently after Gen 4, GM no longer uses slotted nuts on their racks. Both racks do use a 13/16" (spark plug size) or 21/22mm socket wrench for the slotted nut.

* The 07-14 / Gen 4 tie rod ends use DIFFERENT slotted nut or Nylock / TTY nut - M14x1.5x16

 

[randeez]

some other nuanced differences...
i think the aluminum knuckles are thicker where the caliper mounts, this is why some people have to run a spacer(washer) when doing later year calipers.
the LCA is also thicker where the lower shock mounts - this is mostly a non-issue because the hardware is long enough, but if you get a spacer lift or, in my case, the lower coil over mount sandwiches the lower mount point

 

[petethepug]

I’ll have to break out the calipers from Brembo CTS-V swap and see how they fit on aluminum knucks. I already know I’ve got to shave a hair off the caliper. I’m kinda curious now how the Brembo will spec out on the aluminum. I don’t know of any who’s mounted them on these knuckles yet.

 

[petethepug]

I’ve got two vehicles ahead of mine to have all the aluminum suspension installed and completely resto the front end.

My daughter’s 01 S10 crew cab in in the diesel Indi shop now having it’s 23 year old Orig rear drum brakes changed for the first time in 30k miles

They’re installing a rear disc brake kit, OEM 16 replica rims off a S15 4x2 and new tires. Next the wifey’s 07 Beetle Vert gets a new 6SP slushbox trans @ 125k miles. Lastly the 09 Esky goes in.

The flipping amount of used car major service going on right now is insane.