What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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BigDogYJ

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was surprised to find out this truck was coated with Ceramic Pro at some point in its life. My tint guy who does a lot of detail jobs was able to determine by the VIN. so he did a decontamination wash and cleaned it up with a top coat application and this thing cleaned up amazing. I had no idea but that probably explains why the paint is in such good condition.
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pictures don't do it justice but the amount of shine on the paint and the wheels is impressive.
 

Fubar0715

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No pics so ya'll will have to trust me. Had sticky caliper on the left rear so I just swapped out rotors, calipers, and new pads on both sides. Also power bled the truck and pulled out, what I can only describe as CocaCola colored fluid from the lines. Yikes! Anywho, nothing special aside from Wagner coated rotors/calipers instead of run of the mill steel.
 

PG01

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No pics so ya'll will have to trust me. Had sticky caliper on the left rear so I just swapped out rotors, calipers, and new pads on both sides. Also power bled the truck and pulled out, what I can only describe as CocaCola colored fluid from the lines. Yikes! Anywho, nothing special aside from Wagner coated rotors/calipers instead of run of the mill steel.
Lies, lies, lies…. No pics never happened ;)
 

89Suburban

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Anyone replace the bottom hinge with roller on drivers door? Didn’t even look yet if i can buy just the hinge. Very tired of white lithium grease and the creak when opening the door…
I did it's a PITA.


 

89Suburban

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I think pawpaw did his, re-pined it or something in the process


Some here did the hinge pin kit:


 

kbuskill

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Anyone replace the bottom hinge with roller on drivers door? Didn’t even look yet if i can buy just the hinge. Very tired of white lithium grease and the creak when opening the door…

These are the ones I used.

They are definitely a pain to change out, mainly getting the spring back in place.

Their site says make sure to get the spring tool to ease installation but the tool is practically worthless, atleast changing them with the door open. Now if you pulled the front fender so you could access it with the door closed then the tool probably works great.
 

Doubeleive

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replaced the outside rear hatch glass button with a dorman 901-159, mine wasn't technically broken but the rubber piece was done for and I discovered in the process when the rubber piece is removed the button "depresser" part just falls out.
other than that it's a easy 2-minute install, just pry the old button out with a tool, pull it out until the harness tab is showing, grab the harness tab with some needle nose pliers remove the old switch and plug in the new one in while holding the harness clip tab. then shove it back in there. done.
 
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89Suburban

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replaced the outside rear hatch glass button with a dorman 901-159, mine wasn't technically broken but the rubber piece was done for and I discovered in the process when the rubber piece is removed the button "depresser" part just falls out.
other than that it's a easy 2-minute install, just pry the button out with a tool, pull it out until the harness tab is showing, grab the harness tab with some needle nose pliers remove the old switch and plug in the new one in while holding the harness clip tab. then shove it back in there. done.
Glad you posted this. I replaced mine 4 or 5 years ago and recently I can feel the rubber cap is cracking and getting ready to fall off. Need to do this again.
 

Doubeleive

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Glad you posted this. I replaced mine 4 or 5 years ago and recently I can feel the rubber cap is cracking and getting ready to fall off. Need to do this again.
I tried to just swap the rubber cap over but I guess there is not enough gap to get it on there properly but either way super easy.
dealer probably charges $500 to take the whole dam rear hatch apart. lol
 

Joseph Garcia

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replaced the outside rear hatch glass button with a dorman 901-159, mine wasn't technically broken but the rubber piece was done for and I discovered in the process when the rubber piece is removed the button "depresser" part just falls out.
other than that it's a easy 2-minute install, just pry the old button out with a tool, pull it out until the harness tab is showing, grab the harness tab with some needle nose pliers remove the old switch and plug in the new one in while holding the harness clip tab. then shove it back in there. done.
Thank you so much!

I've had this hole for the last 3 or 4 years, not knowing if I wanted to invest the time and effort, and if it's a PIA to do.

Now, I'm going to get it done .

Thanks again.
 

Doubeleive

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Thank you so much!

I've had this hole for the last 3 or 4 years, not knowing if I wanted to invest the time and effort, and if it's a PIA to do.

Now, I'm going to get it done .

Thanks again.
ya the harness does not fit thru the hole, but the locking tab does so just grab the tab and hold it while swapping the switch then it just pushes back up into place
 

PG01

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I did it's a PITA.



I did it's a PITA.



These are the ones I used.

They are definitely a pain to change out, mainly getting the spring back in place.

Their site says make sure to get the spring tool to ease installation but the tool is practically worthless, atleast changing them with the door open. Now if you pulled the front fender so you could access it with the door closed then the tool probably works great.
Thank you both
 

RMR98

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Installed driver side strut spacer and got the Chevy lean down to 3/8 front and rear. Good enough until the struts and rear shocks needs upgraded. Got my HP tune done. So far so good. May have to lower the 4-5 and 5-6 shift mph a touch. Works great uphill to the house 5 miles from town (3200ft to 4100ft). But forces me to go 50mph and 60mph for those final shifts on the flats. I'll live with it for a spell. Got a sportier muffler on today for some noise. Will allow me to flex on some local Hyundais ;). Sway bars will be in Sunday. Wallets getting an early workout on this thing. Will align after sway bars are in. Cheers.
 

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