What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Walchit

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m1dn

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Change tranny oil today and o2 sensor.

I wanted to try cleaning the o2 first, but I couldn’t get it out without heating and breaking it apart, looks it was never changed in 130k miles, so off to amazon i was.
5min cleaning job turned into an hour of heating and banging :D

On a good note while being down there covered in tranny oil from head to toe i found a small oil leak that should be easy to fix.

I read here that these lines are prone to leaking around the gasket it seems?

4A200D16-DB87-4BD9-BA0B-AD4390140F78.jpeg
 

RooTBeeRthe1st

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Change tranny oil today and o2 sensor.

I wanted to try cleaning the o2 first, but I couldn’t get it out without heating and breaking it apart, looks it was never changed in 130k miles, so off to amazon i was.
5min cleaning job turned into an hour of heating and banging :D

On a good note while being down there covered in tranny oil from head to toe i found a small oil leak that should be easy to fix.

I read here that these lines are prone to leaking around the gasket it seems?
I've noticed recently that my Engine Oil Cooler Lines are covered in grime...havent looked yet, but id bet its a similar seal on the block causing my issue.
No drips yet at least.
 

m1dn

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I've noticed recently that my Engine Oil Cooler Lines are covered in grime...havent looked yet, but id bet its a similar seal on the block causing my issue.
No drips yet at least.
Mine dripped once, noticed a drop on driveway, cleaned it up and hasn’t dripped since, but theres visible oil seeking from gasket
 

Walchit

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Does GM make their cam sensors in China? Or I got amazon scammed? It was in a gm box, lol
 

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iamdub

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Does GM make their cam sensors in China? Or I got amazon scammed? It was in a gm box, lol

Hard to say. It seems there are more and more GM OE parts being sourced from China/overseas. Whether or not those parts are made at the same factories and/or held to the same qualities as the "good" foreign parts is the question.

On the flip, it's easy to print up a legit-looking GM box to package the knock-off parts. This is part of how the spark plugs and other "half-priced/too-good-to-be-true" parts are slipped through.
 

Walchit

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Hard to say. It seems there are more and more GM OE parts being sourced from China/overseas. Whether or not those parts are made at the same factories and/or held to the same qualities as the "good" foreign parts is the question.

On the flip, it's easy to print up a legit-looking GM box to package the knock-off parts. This is part of how the spark plugs and other "half-priced/too-good-to-be-true" parts are slipped through.
I don't think it was overly cheap, so hopefully it's good. I somehow got in the 900 thread I guess... lol
 

89Suburban

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Pretty easy installation? How does it feel compared to OE?

It feels great but real pain in the ass. Some of those bolts are a real b*tch to get to. What I wound up doing was removing the bottom 2 door bolts first with a 10MM ratchet wrench, then loosening the top ones. That allowed me to TILT the bottom of the fully open door back enough at the bottom to reach the 2 front pillar bolts with a 1/4" drive and swivel wrapped with electrical tape, 13MM socket. I used a jack with a rubber mat to hold the bottom of the door and suspend it in the middle and adjust the door up and down during this whole process.

Then I did the rear pillar bolt with a 13MM ratchet wrench and the fender bolt with extension and 13MM socket. The hinge will slide out through the bottom. Slide then new one into place, used the fender bolt to loosely hold it in place. Get the 2 a-hole front pillar bolts started. Then put the rear pillar bolt in and very slightly snug it. Get 1 bottom door bolt installed. Sung the door bolts very slightly. Then try to get the door aligned properly up/down to close right and have a correct gap to the fender. You snug them just right to where you can yank the door up or down to adjust.

Once you are on point, fully tighten the rear pillar bolt. Thake the damn bottom door bolt back out, loosen the top ones, so you can angle the door AGAIN to snug up the front 2 pillar bolts. THEN reinstall and lightly snug all the door bolts. Retest shuts correctly and lines up. Tighten up all the door bolts. And the fender bolt is the last one to tighten up.

Now I need some beers, good bye.
 
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It feels great but real pain in the ass. Some of those bolts are a real b*tch to get to. What I wound up doing was removing the bottom 2 door bolts first with a 10MM ratchet wrench, then loosening the top ones. That allowed me to TILT the bottom of the fully open door back enough at the bottom to reach the 2 front pillar bolts with a 1/4" drive and swivel wrapped with electrical tape, 13MM socket. I used a jack with a rubber mat to hold the bottom of the door and suspend it in the middle and adjust the door up and down during this whole process.

Then I did the rear pillar bolt with a 13MM ratchet wrench and the fender bolt with extension and 13MM socket. The hinge will slide out through the bottom. Slide then new one into place, used the fender bolt to loosely hold it in place. Get the 2 a-hole front pillar bolts started. Then put the rear pillar bolt in and very slightly snug it. Get 1 bottom door bolt installed. Sung the door bolts very slightly. Then try to get the door aligned properly up/down to close right and have a correct gap to the fender. You snug them just right to where you can yank the door up or down to adjust.

Once you are on point, fully tighten the rear pillar bolt. Thake the damn bottom door bolt back out, loosen the top ones, so you can angle the door AGAIN to snug up the front 2 pillar bolts. THEN reinstall and lightly snug all the door bolts. Retest shuts correctly and lines up. Tighten up all the door bolts. And the fender bolt is the last one to tighten up.

Now I need some beers, good bye.
Damn, nothing like the GMT800 door hinges
 

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