What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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kbuskill

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what a silly problem to have ha

rear door handle broke, as they seem to do, this is the 2nd one. atleast the knock offs seem good and pretty cheap. but the child door lock is on, so can't open the door from the inside handle.

I haven't even messed with it yet, part was just delivered a bit ago. anyone got any ideas of how to open a door with the child lock on without using the outside handle lol.

I'm thinking flip the seat back and try and take the door panel off somehow. Or if any piece of the door handle is left outside drill a screw into it so you can move it? On a side note. This guy below sell GM o.e.m. door handle take offs on ebay for only $20 for the entire set. I grabbed a set of gold ones for my Yukon.


Just a friendly public service announcement in case you haven't seen these before...


I haven't used these personally yet but Gruven's parts are solid.
 

mikez71

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Removed my original starter again to replace it with the remy, but one of the bolts was 1/2" from bottoming out and binding. No bueno. Motor wire from the solenoid was also thinner. Gonna have to return it and go OEM..

1.7kW starter worth it or no? Any drawbacks? (other than power consumption I suppose)
 
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89Suburban

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what a silly problem to have ha

rear door handle broke, as they seem to do, this is the 2nd one. atleast the knock offs seem good and pretty cheap. but the child door lock is on, so can't open the door from the inside handle.

I haven't even messed with it yet, part was just delivered a bit ago. anyone got any ideas of how to open a door with the child lock on without using the outside handle lol.

I'm thinking flip the seat back and try and take the door panel off somehow. Or if any piece of the door handle is left outside drill a screw into it so you can move it? On a side note. This guy below sell GM o.e.m. door handle take offs on ebay for only $20 for the entire set. I grabbed a set of gold ones for my Yukon.


Yeah it will be a ***** but he should be able to get the panel off. Last time I had one off I purposely replayed that scenario before putting it back together just as an intuitive “just in case” exercise.
 

j91z28d1

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well I got super lucky, I thought I was going to have to use the AAA trick. my seats fold forward not back put of the way, don't know if that's a bench seat or a hybrid battery under the seat thing. but it would have made pulling the door panel look very difficult. you could definitely push down on the rode with a slim him, but to be honest the rod is an inch long, hitting it would be hard.

I got lucky, turns out it didn't break like the front one, just the return spring broke and wedged up in there keeping it from pulling all the way. after playing with it a bit, it had a feel like it was still pulling on something in there. before I took a cut off wheel to it, I pulled as hard as I felt comfortable wouldn't damage the door skin and it popped open.

new one on, alls good. had I known about the 4 oem take offs on ebay, I'd have just replaced all 4. I still might. it did give me a time to fix some plastic on plastic squeaks that drive me nuts.
 

j91z28d1

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Removed my original starter again to replace it with the remy, but one of the bolts was 1/2" from bottoming out and binding. No bueno. Motor wire from the solenoid was also thinner. Gonna have to return it and go OEM..

1.7kW starter worth it or no? Any drawbacks? (other than power consumption I suppose)
looking up a 2012 yukon 6.2 it shows a 2.0kW starter.. I was happy with OEM, yet it seemed like I had the 1.0kW starter? at least according to rockauto


as I understand electric motors, it will only draw the current needed to hit the rpm per volt it's wound to turn. so unless you've done something to increase the load on the motor during cranking, like high compression or just a newer tighter motor till the rings wear in, the stock one it came with should be fine.

if you have made it harder to turn, then the higher amp capable starter might spin you over faster.

most new starters are pretty good these days thou, the days of needed a high torque gear reduction starter on anything short of a high compression big block with the battery in the back are kinda gone.

mainly your battery having the reserve to hold the voltage up while cranking should play a larger role in cranking speed than amp rating on a new vs new starter. now I have definitely had old high mileage starters lose some balls, drag like a dead battery and pull even more amps than a fresh one spinning faster. why that is, I can't really say. magnets getting week, brushes worn and even some windings breaking over l all happen to older electric DC motors.
 

CMoore711

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Just a friendly public service announcement in case you haven't seen these before...


I haven't used these personally yet but Gruven's parts are solid.

@kbuskill getting ready to have new door handles installed soon.

What is this hardware and why do I need it over stock ones?
 

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