What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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SpareParts

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I always kinda thought, become a car engineer in Germany, sit around and drink a few steins of beer at lunch and you too can suddenly design cars!
 

Charlie207

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As someone who has been heavily involved in the BMW enthusiast world for over three decades, I have to give you a friendly "I call BS." Exactly what body/model were you on the boards for? Outside of Z8s or brand-new 7-Series, I cannot see that. The only real opposition I see on BMW boards is against "stance" mods.

Now, if you were to talk about classic Mercedes forums, they actually do have the "Mercedes did it, so a lowly peon like you shouldn't change it" attitude.
I'm happy you didn't have any bad experiences, but I was definitely there for some drama back in the day when I hung around the E39 and E46 crowds. God forbid you didn't spend 3k on ***** headers, or say that fuel additives were dumb.
 

Charlie207

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Also, there was a post in the last few weeks that I can't fully remember, but they had a weird CEL code P105B or C/D .... Little fuzzy. Anyways I got a random CEL, and there they were...

1000011920.jpg


I checked and one of those is a BMW intake code, or a Jeep code (sell it and burn your house down) , but I'm curious why a GM PCM would see shītbox codes?
 

91RS

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I wouldn’t say GM is any better quality than those “shitboxes” you mention….

Those codes are almost always for very slightly skewed oxygen sensors if you have no intake or exhaust leaks. Very rarely the bank of injectors setting the code but unlikely since you have both banks setting the codes.
 

Sir_Hiro

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I wouldn’t say GM is any better quality than those “shitboxes” you mention….

Those codes are almost always for very slightly skewed oxygen sensors if you have no intake or exhaust leaks. Very rarely the bank of injectors setting the code but unlikely since you have both banks setting the codes.
Lets be honest anything after late 2000s from any manufacture is junk. All automotive brand quality peeked then and has not risen since. All the do dads and gizmos they now throw in these cars is ungodly dumb. Dodge tried with the Hellkittys and stuff but they made them so easy to steal it killed it for me. I doubt we will ever see another decent era of automobiles in our lifetime. I dont see anyone 30 years from now being excited over finding a 2024 Jeep Wagoneer in a barn rotting away.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Lets be honest anything after late 2000s from any manufacture is junk. All automotive brand quality peeked then and has not risen since. All the do dads and gizmos they now throw in these cars is ungodly dumb. Dodge tried with the Hellkittys and stuff but they made them so easy to steal it killed it for me. I doubt we will ever see another decent era of automobiles in our lifetime. I dont see anyone 30 years from now being excited over finding a 2024 Jeep Wagoneer in a barn rotting away.
And, I'll bet that our Fathers and Grandfathers said that, too. I know that mine did.

I'm not saying that you are wrong, but it does seem to be a generational theme.
 

Sir_Hiro

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And, I'll bet that our Fathers and Grandfathers said that, too. I know that mine did.

I'm not saying that you are wrong, but it does seem to be a generational theme.
This generation is a throwaway generation. Add to the fact you damn near need to be an electrical engineer to even understand these systems is gonna throw people off to. Nothing like the old school tune with a screwdriver and a 1/2 and 9/16 wrench to tear apart an entire car.
 

j91z28d1

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Lets be honest anything after late 2000s from any manufacture is junk. All automotive brand quality peeked then and has not risen since. All the do dads and gizmos they now throw in these cars is ungodly dumb. Dodge tried with the Hellkittys and stuff but they made them so easy to steal it killed it for me. I doubt we will ever see another decent era of automobiles in our lifetime. I dont see anyone 30 years from now being excited over finding a 2024 Jeep Wagoneer in a barn rotting away.


you'd be surprised, I remember what we thought was the absolutely worst cars in the 80s and 90s are now builds and finds. stuff we thought was just junk, has become so easy to work on and swap stuff into now, people want them.

my mom had a Ford Fairmont. God awful car, engine would die ramdomly when turning corners because of a bad brain box she was told. we didn't have money for a part like that, so they just drove it dying when making left turns in front of traffic. now a Fairmont is very popular because it's basically a fox body mustang thats cheaper and easier to find.


cars 20 years from now are going to be so god awful you'll be so happy to find a 20-25 anything that still runs and you're allowed to fix yourself. because that right to repair rule days are numbered at this point.
 

Charlie207

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Quick question for you guys that have swapped the rear-end: Is the AXN 9.5" 14-bolt rear-end a direct swap for the 8.5" 10-bolt unit?

I'm worried that my rear-end w/195k is starting to make a humming/bearing noise, although I'm not 100% it's not the studded tires. Either way, I'm in the game-planning mode for a potential swap. LQK has some units w/lockers for $200-$300 plus shipping as reference, which would probably be cheaper (even after the $320 shipping fee) for me to unbolt the old rear axle and install a replacement myself... as opposed to paying a shop to diagnose and repair the issue. Plus, it would probably be a few hour job in my driveway.

Thoughts?
 

Joseph Garcia

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Quick question for you guys that have swapped the rear-end: Is the AXN 9.5" 14-bolt rear-end a direct swap for the 8.5" 10-bolt unit?

I'm worried that my rear-end w/195k is starting to make a humming/bearing noise, although I'm not 100% it's not the studded tires. Either way, I'm in the game-planning mode for a potential swap. LQK has some units w/lockers for $200-$300 plus shipping as reference, which would probably be cheaper (even after the $320 shipping fee) for me to unbolt the old rear axle and install a replacement myself... as opposed to paying a shop to diagnose and repair the issue. Plus, it would probably be a few hour job in my driveway.

Thoughts?
A couple of things to reply to your question.. .

First, these rear axles are incredibly f****ing heavy, so be prepared for that, if you're going to manage this project yourself, or do any kind of conveyance of this rear axle from point A to point B. Two people on one end of the axle trying to lift it to start to put a pallet under it was a challenge. I had absolutely no clue, I was stunned by the weight of these axles.

I found out the hard way, but I had a fitment issue with a 14-bolt rear end from a 2009 Escalade matching up to my drive shaft on my 2007 Yukon XL Denali. I have subsequently found out that for the 2007 first year of the GMT900 series, they kept the same flange opening spec for the driveshaft and universals that they had on the GMT800 vehicles. In 2009, they changed the spec for a larger diameter universal joint cap and more beef in the drivetrain, to better accommodate higher horsepower. There are conversion universal joints available, if you run into this issue, so really not a showstopper.

@swathdiver has knowledge in this area, and he advised me on this conversion project for my particular truck, that the 14 bolt rear axle had to some from a large SUV and not a pickup truck. When you are ready tp pull the trigger, you may want to PM him for a discussion.
 

Joseph Garcia

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@Joseph Garcia Great info, thanks.

Would you say that other than the U-joint iteration issue the rest of the upgraded 9.5" axle bolts up with no drama?
Yes, if you choose the donor vehicle correctly, the 14 bolt (9.5") rear axle does bolt right up. For my needs, I was looking for a 14 bolt rear axle that came out of a 2WD Escalade or Yukon.
 

Charlie207

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Yes, if you choose the donor vehicle correctly, the 14 bolt (9.5") rear axle does bolt right up. For my needs, I was looking for a 14 bolt rear axle that came out of a 2WD Escalade or Yukon.
Yeah, I'm looking at 2wd donor vehicles that have the G80 for my 2014 chassis.

I guess I was assuming that Yukon/Denali/Escalade XL rear axles, yokes, U-joints were the same exact parts used in regular (non-XL) chassis, and only the driveshafts were different.

Also, how much did LQK charge for shipping to NH for you? Im seeing $320 no matter where I order it from (from Georgia all the way to California - same rate).

Let's say I spend $600 for a 14-bolt, all-in, I'm guess that's less than what I'd pay to have a shop rebuild my 10-bolt (assuming there's bad juju happening). Im think of it as a proactive maintenance upgrade if I swap it before something bad happens.
 

mikez71

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Some AWD escalades (and probably denalis?) came with the 14bolt and G80 as well.

If you use a hitch mounted cargo holder, you can have the yard set it on there, then use a cherry picker at home to unload it.
(assuming there is a junkyard close by..)
 

mikez71

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Two people on one end of the axle trying to lift it to start to put a pallet under it was a challenge.

Forsure!

That was my plan, until I discovered I couldn't lift one end off the hitch mount cargo carrier!
Decided NOT to call my 70+ year old buddy for help..
(even if we could have lifted it, we would have injured ourselves putting it down)

I pulled out the cherry picker instead.
 

91RS

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Some AWD escalades (and probably denalis?) came with the 14bolt and G80 as well.

If you use a hitch mounted cargo holder, you can have the yard set it on there, then use a cherry picker at home to unload it.
(assuming there is a junkyard close by..)

I have not seen a 900 body style all wheel drive with a 14 bolt. The K2’s have the 14 bolt though.
 

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