Back driver door window and open close switch

[Ciachef2002]

At the same time, both the window regulator and the switch that tells the car, whether the door is open or closed, have stopped working. I looked at the wiring harness and clips into the B pillar, and did not see any issues with wiring, and I have looked at fuses and can’t determine any issues there. does anyone know of a reason why I might not be getting power to the rear window? The door lock does go up and down but that is the only electrical that I am getting in the door.

 

[Big Mama]

Have you checked the wires along the driver’s door sill plate? I had some issues in that area a while back.

 

[Yamathieu]

Any update to this repair? I'm having the exact same issue. I replaced the door latch assembly and nothing was resolved, the window or the door open warning.

 

[Big Mama]

I’m guessing the OP got his problem resolved. You can easily check the wires under the sill plate. Once water gets in there goofy things happen.

 

[Bad Attitude]

Any update to this repair? I'm having the exact same issue. I replaced the door latch assembly and nothing was resolved, the window or the door open warning.

Did you fix your problem? I have the same issues

 

[Fless]

Did you fix your problem? I have the same issues

We'll probably never know; he hasn't been on here since July 2024.

 

[Bad Attitude]

We'll probably never know; he hasn't been on here since July 2024.

Anyone have the solution to this problem?

 

[Bad Attitude]

We'll probably never know; he hasn't been on here since July 2024.

Here's my specifics, replaced the lock actuator on rear passenger door. Door worked fine for two months. Now I have an open door detect on the dash, can't let the rear window down on drivers control, and won't lock on remote the first time. I have removed the negative cable for a bam reset and the open door cleared for about two minutes and now the same problem. NEED HELP!

 

[Bad Attitude]

Here's my specifics, replaced the lock actuator on rear passenger door. Door worked fine for two months. Now I have an open door detect on the dash, can't let the rear window down on drivers control, and won't lock on remote the first time. I have removed the negative cable for a bam reset and the open door cleared for about two minutes and now the same problem. NEED HELP!

BCM, not bam

 

[Fless]

Here's my specifics, replaced the lock actuator on rear passenger door. Door worked fine for two months. Now I have an open door detect on the dash, can't let the rear window down on drivers control, and won't lock on remote the first time. I have removed the negative cable for a bam reset and the open door cleared for about two minutes and now the same problem. NEED HELP!

Help us out by indicating what vehicle you're working on. Consider putting your vehicle info in your signature so it's there to reference.

 

[Big Mama]

As @Fless noted we need more info but something you can check on most models is the wiring that is under the driver door sill plate and the ground on the B pillar. The wires can get frayed over time.

 

[Bad Attitude]

Help us out by indicating what vehicle you're working on. Consider putting your vehicle info in your signature so it's there to reference.

2015 Tahoe ltz

 

[Fless]

A good bidirectional scanner might show a DTC to lead you in the right direction. There may be a communication or circuit code, and you may be able to look at live data to see the commanded modes vs. the actual modes of the door locks and window positions.