Adding a subwoofer & Stereo

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Tonyv__

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It records and if the shock sensor is tripped it locks the video. I am using a 128GB thumb drive.
Maybe ill post a vid so you can see.
The recorded videos are 1 minute at a time and slightly overlaps by a sec or two.
I do need to reposition my mounting point.
Im on the fence. probably not worth the price difference for me. The EQ doesn’t really benefit me either I don’t think. The van is as basic as it comes, no factory amp no rear speakers. I currently have 2 aftermarket amps, 1 running the sub and 1 running 4 speakers. They can be tuned individually.

I think I’ll just pull the trigger on the s8 and if I do decide on a dash cam, I’ve had my eye on something like this. My understanding is that it records front and rear
IMG_6917.png
 
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SpareParts

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Everyone's wants needs are different.
In my camping van, it has two front door speakers and they both are blown and rattle. I don't see a need to fix any of that.

My X10 will record front/rear but not with the stock rear camera i think. I should check it out, maybe it will.
 

homesick

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Here's a new one, on me anyway.

I got in the truck the other morning, and the stereo was putting out no sound. The [Kenwood] head unit and my phone were talking to each other ok, but no sound.

I took it to the stereo shop yesterday, and they fixed it. It cost me $30 to find out that there was slight corrosion between the battery post and the cable. It had caused just enough resistance to keep the amp from working [the amp has its own power wire to the battery].

joe
 

Joseph Garcia

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Here's a new one, on me anyway.

I got in the truck the other morning, and the stereo was putting out no sound. The [Kenwood] head unit and my phone were talking to each other ok, but no sound.

I took it to the stereo shop yesterday, and they fixed it. It cost me $30 to find out that there was slight corrosion between the battery post and the cable. It had caused just enough resistance to keep the amp from working [the amp has its own power wire to the battery].

joe
Mmmmmmm........ That's an odd one. Glad that it is resolved.
 
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Putting that Maestro RR interface in and a couple problems i can not figure out. Maybe someone can help.

The SWC. Worked perfect with the PAC interface but not so with the Maestro.
With the maestro, programming does not seem to work properly.
I can program the radio for volume up and down.

If i short press the up volume, volume goes up, if i press up volume again it goes down, same with the down volume. Other buttons will not do anything.

Also, the whole reason to get the Maestro was for fade control. I can not get that to work either.

Im probably doing something wrong but i have no idea what?

The maestro was programmed and is version 2.6.
 

Doubeleive

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Putting that Maestro RR interface in and a couple problems i can not figure out. Maybe someone can help.

The SWC. Worked perfect with the PAC interface but not so with the Maestro.
With the maestro, programming does not seem to work properly.
I can program the radio for volume up and down.

If i short press the up volume, volume goes up, if i press up volume again it goes down, same with the down volume. Other buttons will not do anything.

Also, the whole reason to get the Maestro was for fade control. I can not get that to work either.

Im probably doing something wrong but i have no idea what?

The maestro was programmed and is version 2.6.
try doing a reset on the maestro it auto configures upon 1st power up, if you plugged it in before you had everything else connected it probably didn't configure correctly.
if that doesn't work reach out to idatalink support, they will help you figure it out. they can customize the firmware if necessary, just takes them a few days.
 

Doubeleive

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I reset it, No change. I reset it and re flashed it, No change.
I would shoot a message over to idatalink tech support, probably won't hear back from them until next week, I "think" you can call them also but probably going to be too late for today depends on there location
 
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I can't find out anything till Monday, but i wonder if the Y91 option is the problem? Seems to be a different animal then the other Bose systems.
I can understand the SWC being finicky as it seems a lot are but i would think the fade function should just work with no problem.
I really wanted to keep the Bose UQA/Y91 amp but depending on what i find out Monday i may just need to get a 4ch amp and dump the Bose.

If i go with a different amp, would it be possible to use the existing speaker wires? I don't really want to take out the interior and run new wires. That's a PITA!
 

Joseph Garcia

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I can't find out anything till Monday, but i wonder if the Y91 option is the problem? Seems to be a different animal then the other Bose systems.
I can understand the SWC being finicky as it seems a lot are but i would think the fade function should just work with no problem.
I really wanted to keep the Bose UQA/Y91 amp but depending on what i find out Monday i may just need to get a 4ch amp and dump the Bose.

If i go with a different amp, would it be possible to use the existing speaker wires? I don't really want to take out the interior and run new wires. That's a PITA!
Using your existing speaker wires will be fine. Just determine the best location to tie into them, if you go with a different amp.
 

Doubeleive

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I can't find out anything till Monday, but i wonder if the Y91 option is the problem? Seems to be a different animal then the other Bose systems.
I can understand the SWC being finicky as it seems a lot are but i would think the fade function should just work with no problem.
I really wanted to keep the Bose UQA/Y91 amp but depending on what i find out Monday i may just need to get a 4ch amp and dump the Bose.

If i go with a different amp, would it be possible to use the existing speaker wires? I don't really want to take out the interior and run new wires. That's a PITA!
you might be surprised what these guys at idatalink can do, they have vehicle electronics pretty well pinned down.
 
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SpareParts

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Well dang. I can not send a message to them outside of business hours, it looks like. It also looks like any tech support has to be done on the phone.
The tech support forum is c*ap and answers nothing.

I find this kind of interesting though.
When i have either the PAC or Maestro interface installed, i do not need the speaker as all chimes still work like normal.
With the PAC, SWC work fine
with the Maestro, they don't work properly.

I kinda think the Maestro GM5+ harness is not an exact match for the Y91 amp fade signal wire, and why do all chimes still work? Everything i read says with an after market radio you loose chimes without the added speaker.

Not much i can do till i talk to them Monday and see what they say.
 
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Had an Email out to ATOTO and i just heard back from them.
It appears when using the stereo it needs a setting changed when using in a Canbus vehicle from whatever it is to Canbus when using a Maestro RR interface.
You also need a vehicle specific harness that allows the stereo to talk to the Maestro properly. It also allows you to use the Maestro software for vehicle monitoring.
ATOTO wants $25 bucks for it but im trying to get them to send me one free.
 
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Besides the harness they are sending me, Atoto says i need a T Harness.
I have no idea what that is and searches do not seem to reveal much either.
Atoto said i needed to contact Maestro for it. I assume that the GM5+ harness would be the correct one but i don't know.
Looking at the pic, it looks like the bottom plug goes to the radio and the top plug is for a T Harness. I do not think i have a plug that would fit or even go to that top plug.
It looks to me the top" power adaptor" plug could be removed and the wires hooked to the Maestro unit.
In the second image, it looks like Atoto wants you to only use the Maestro interface for SWC and the Maestro software in the stereo.
s-l1600.jpg

s-l160.jpg
 
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Was messing with the stereo wiring and stuff today trying to get everything to work.
Atoto tried a little, but email waiting is the killer.
Talked to the Maestro tech people, and they said the Maestro box is functioning properly and the loaded software is correct. Tried a few suggestions they offered but no joy.
They do not know why the fade function does not work and suspect bad/altered car wiring. Stock radio works fine.

At this point i think the easiest way to solve all this is to install an aftermarket amp.
Problem is. I just put new 2 ohm speakers in the front doors and if i remember correctly the rear door speakers are 3.6 ohm.
So now i wonder if a 2/4 ohm amp is good to run on the front channels at 2 ohm and the rear at 4 ohm if the amp is 2 or 4 ohm compatible?
 

homesick

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Are they aware of the load mismatch between front and rear speakers? Is it possible their gear doesn't like the mismatch?

joe
 
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The ohms are stock, so i would imagine they know that.
Im tired of messing with it for hours on end and getting nowhere, so im done with it and will be looking for a small 4ch 60w x4, 2/4ohm amp.
 

homesick

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The ohms are stock, so i would imagine they know that.
Im tired of messing with it for hours on end and getting nowhere, so im done with it and will be looking for a small 4ch 60w x4, 2/4ohm amp.

I know the feeling.

joe
 

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