Adding a subwoofer & Stereo

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SpareParts

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So being retired now, I'm wanting to add a subwoofer to Cracker with a budget in mind of $300
I have 14in between the rear seats and want to place it there.
This is the speaker im looking at HERE
Not looking to set off car alarms or rattle windows just more base than the old stock under dash puts out.
If i settle on this Kicker subwoofer, what would be a good amp to use with it?
Also, would i need a LOC?
Im also not opposed to just buying a speaker and building a box for it.
Thanks.
 

Joseph Garcia

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I just wrote this up for a fellow Forum member with the same question. This applies to 2nd row bucket seats, but I don't know if you have them. It may answer some of your questions, though, like where to put the amp.


sub-woofer-enclosure-small-file-jpg.jpg



sub-woofer-bottom-view-small-file-jpg.jpg



The speaker wire has a high amperage quick release connector, and I keep a 10' speaker extension wire with matching connectors, so that I can (1) remove the subwoofer completely from the truck if I need that in-between space for something else, and (2) move the subwoofer around inside the truck with the speaker extension wire extension if I need to re-arrange cargo for some reason.

I use a 10" AudioMobile subwoofer, which is 100% American made, and it is designed specifically for small sealed enclosures of 1cu. ft. or less, without using the shallow mount inefficient pancake frame speaker design. This speaker has the same sound quality as the JL Audio W3 subwoofer (though not as much power handling capacity), but 30+% less expensive. I power this subwoofer with a Rockford Fosgate 500 RMS watt amp at 2 Ohms. The amp is located inside the left rear side panel, just forward of the spare tire jack area.

audiomobile-sub-specs-jpg.jpg



If you need any more information, let me know. Please excuse the white hair all over it, and my 90+ lb. White German Shepherd loves to lie on top of the subwoofer, with his paws on my legs, looking out the front windshield.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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@Joseph Garcia
I saw that post and that is what prompted me to make a different post in the appropriate section.
I know this is all low end stuff but im sure almost anything is better than the stock subwoofer.
As i mentioned, I am capable of making a box if need be.
I'm looking for an amp to match the speaker and wondering if i need a loc converter or not.
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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Guess i forgot to mention i have the electric folding seats behind the driver also. There is 14in between them.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Guess i forgot to mention i have the electric folding seats behind the driver also. There is 14in between them.
It sounds like you are good to go with the assembly of a subwoofer enclosure to fit between the 2nd row seats. If you want dimensions, I can provide you with the dimensions of my subwoofer enclosure.

Unless your current head unit has preamp output jacks for a subwoofer, you will have to splice into a left and right channel of your speaker wires, preferably front speakers. You can do this directly behind the head unit. Then run those wires to where you plan to install your subwoofer amp and connect the wires to the high level input on the amp. You will also have to run a power wire from your battery or main fuse to your amp, and make sure that you have an in-line fuse on that wire.

Looking forward to reading about your progress on this new project.
 
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After adding a sub do people keep the original Bose sub and use it, or safe to remove?
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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The reason i went with that one is because the space between the seats is about 14 1/4in and it fits perfectly with just a very tiny gap on each side.
Also, i wanted down firing so it would look like it belonged between the seats. We don't really have a problem with theft around here, but ya never know. Just looking in through the tinted windows you can't really see it clearly.
I would not mind a 10K system at all but realistically i would not drive enough or long enough to get my full use out of it, so a little more bass should be good for me.
Although I am also looking at some Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 for the front doors as they are 2 ohm and factory are 1.9 ohm.
 

kbuskill

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The reason i went with that one is because the space between the seats is about 14 1/4in and it fits perfectly with just a very tiny gap on each side.
Also, i wanted down firing so it would look like it belonged between the seats. We don't really have a problem with theft around here, but ya never know. Just looking in through the tinted windows you can't really see it clearly.
I would not mind a 10K system at all but realistically i would not drive enough or long enough to get my full use out of it, so a little more bass should be good for me.
Although I am also looking at some Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 for the front doors as they are 2 ohm and factory are 1.9 ohm.

I have a Kicker 12 in a down firing box in the same location and I also installed the Kappas in the front doors for the same reason, they essentially match the factory ohm load to keep the Bose amp happy, I installed the Infinity Primus PR6500cs in the rear doors for the same reason, they are 3 ohm and factory speakers are 3.6 ohm.

You can check it out here...
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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The HU rabbit hole.
What would be a decent HU?
What i need is: Under $500, Android based OS, Android Auto, Chimes, Steering wheel controls, GPS HU Nav, Rear camera.

I would buy another ATOTO S8 but i do not know if it can be made to work with steering wheel controls and factory rear camera.
I really do like Android based HU. I have had 3 ATOTO S8's. Work fantastic for me but i keep selling the trucks (pre 2007)with the stereo's:banghead:
Pioneer NEX's are good but they lack the features of an android based HU
I have not had Kenwood, Alpine, JVC.

I do not and never will use:
Sirius XM
Factory Nav
Rear entertainment
ON Star
 
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SpareParts

SpareParts

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I like the DSP, Separate equalizer for front/rear, Can load apps like ON X hunt/off road. To name a few things.
 

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