Adding a subwoofer & Stereo

[SpareParts]

Looking at this one atm. Has over 5k mostly positive reviews on Amazon.
I figure when you're talking an under $200 amp nothing is great but honestly i never crank it up to high.
The lower i can keep the gain set the cleaner everything will sound. I never want to turn it up all the way anyway to avoid hot amp and blown speakers.

Amazon.com: BOSS Audio Systems R3004 4 Channel Car Amplifier - 1200 Watts, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control

Amazon.com: BOSS Audio Systems R3004 4 Channel Car Amplifier - 1200 Watts, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control

www.amazon.com

 

[SpareParts]

Think i'll take the chance on this.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[SpareParts]

Ordered/paid

 

[Tonyrodz]

Pioneer is some good stuff.

 

[Tonyv__]

Think i'll take the chance on this.

Pardon Our Interruption...

I have a pioneer gm series mono amp and I’ve been happy with it for about roughly 10 years now. It’s been through multiple work vehicles used daily.

 

[SpareParts]

I'm pretty sure it's good enough for me.
Seems like everything a guy reads is not very informative, really. According to the internet anything less than high end stuff is junk.
I want my set up to sound good at low to mid volume and for that surly that's attainable without high end stuff.

 

[homesick]

Pioneer is some good stuff.

I remember my Super Tuner fondly.

joe

 

[Tonyv__]

I'm pretty sure it's good enough for me.
Seems like everything a guy reads is not very informative, really. According to the internet anything less than high end stuff is junk.
I want my set up to sound good at low to mid volume and for that surly that's attainable without high end stuff.

Most amps should work for you. They’re all designed to work at a basic level. They’re not all designed to compete or be pushed to their limits. I think it’s as simple as that. You made a good choice with your pick.

 

[Doubeleive]

Think i'll take the chance on this.

Pardon Our Interruption...

that should be fine for normal listening, those digital amps cut out at high volume, shut off and then cycle back on, kinda sucks if you want it loud all the time.

 

[SpareParts]

The fun part will be figuring out the amp wiring on Cracker so i can get it all hooked up.
I think i have the proper lux amp wiring diagram.

 

[SpareParts]

Not that i will but might be a future idea.
Would 8in Midrange be beneficial in the front or rear doors?
Im sure i will need to replace the rear door speakers before long as im sure they are worn out stock speakers but that's probably a few months away.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I think that you are better off with the refurb Pioneer amp. The BOSS amp is a Class A/B amp, which is best for sound quality, but is dependent upon a good constant power source voltage (output power is fully dependent on input voltage), and they tend to run warm to hot when pushed. The Pioneer amp is a Class D amp, which depending upon the internal frequency of the switching electronic hardware, can produce sound quality approaching the Class A/B amp. A good quality Class D amp's power output is not directly impacted by power source voltage (as long as above 10.5 volts), and it rarely runs hot. And, their cases are typically smaller and lighter.

Regarding mid range speaker sound, you do not need an 8" speaker to produce quality mid range sound. What you do need is a quality speaker. A quality 6.5" speaker can produce solid mid range sound down to 80 hz, where your subwoofer will cut in and produce sounds below 80 hz.

 

[Trilla_one]

Well it kinda is i think.
Atoto says there X10 stereo is supported and it is. No mention of not in the USA. Maestro says not in the USA but overseas is.
There are a few videos showing Maestro app supports Atoto and loading the proper software but not in the US.
I LOVE the stereo so i guess the only solution for me is an amp.
Can't afford JL prices so im looking at 4 CH Alpine, Pioneer or Skar

Skar gets a bad rap sometimes but i've been running an Skv 2500 for some years now and never had a problem. Doesn't even get hot when i'm pushing it.

I have been playing with the idea of downsizing my stereo without losing bass output. Might need the space in the future. Although I don't do it as much anymore, I do like the capability of setting off alarms or doing demos for fellow enthusiasts. I have a single Skar VXF-15 on 2500 watts and it definitely gets the job done. If anyone knows how comparable the output of these Kickers are to the Skar please let me know.

 

[SpareParts]

The Pioneer amp will be here Tuesday.
I can get that all hooked up then in a few weeks i'll start looking for speakers.
I'll replace the rear door's first as the front pair are new a few months ago.

 

[SpareParts]

Tweeters are in the front pillar.
Any advantage to having tweeters in the rear? I feel like just a 6.5 mid would be the best choice for rear doors.

 

[Tonyv__]

Skar gets a bad rap sometimes but i've been running an Skv 2500 for some years now and never had a problem. Doesn't even get hot when i'm pushing it.

I have been playing with the idea of downsizing my stereo without losing bass output. Might need the space in the future. Although I don't do it as much anymore, I do like the capability of setting off alarms or doing demos for fellow enthusiasts. I have a single Skar VXF-15 on 2500 watts and it definitely gets the job done. If anyone knows how comparable the output of these Kickers are to the Skar please let me know.

View attachment 466448View attachment 466449

You’ll almost never achieve what you have now and it will always leave you craving more bass.

I cannot for the life of me get a slim box behind my seat to hit as hard as a single 12 in a 2.5 cu box in the trunk.

I tried a single 12 in a long slim box. 4 8” subs in a slim box and now a 12” JLw6 in a wedge box.

The jl is pretty good but I’m still not getting that gut punch that I really am seeking.



However at your price range it may be worth while to look into a sub woofer named stereo integrity sql. They apparently pride themselves with great reviews to be a highly capable subwoofer in a small sealed box. They go for about $500 a piece though without the box.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Tweeters are in the front pillar.
Any advantage to having tweeters in the rear? I feel like just a 6.5 mid would be the best choice for rear doors.

There is really no advantage, unless you have 2nd row seat passengers routinely. What you can do, however, is get 6.5" two way coaxial speakers for the rear doors, and you'll have the best of both worlds without drilling new holes or making surface mount tweeter modifications. And, with proper tuning, the full range coaxial rear door speakers will provide a more in-depth 3D listening experience for you as the driver and main listener.

If, by chance, you are talking about the speakers way back in the rear pillars of the truck, IMO, you don't need them at all, if you have a solid audio system in the front and 2nd rows. I simply deleted them, and I've never missed them.

 

[Trilla_one]

You’ll almost never achieve what you have now and it will always leave you craving more bass.

I cannot for the life of me get a slim box behind my seat to hit as hard as a single 12 in a 2.5 cu box in the trunk.

I tried a single 12 in a long slim box. 4 8” subs in a slim box and now a 12” JLw6 in a wedge box.

The jl is pretty good but I’m still not getting that gut punch that I really am seeking.



However at your price range it may be worth while to look into a sub woofer named stereo integrity sql. They apparently pride themselves with great reviews to be a highly capable subwoofer in a small sealed box. They go for about $500 a piece though without the box.

Thanks for the insights and recommendation. I may end up going with a 3 or 4 10s setup with speaker grilles so I can toss stuff back there and not worry about them getting damaged.

Rockford Fosgate P3s or T1s should do the job. A buddy of mine had 2 RF T0 12s on 1400 watts in a 1st gen Navigator and he somehow had more bass than me. That made me a RF believer lol

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thanks for the insights and recommendation. I may end up going with a 3 or 4 10s setup with speaker grilles so I can toss stuff back there and not worry about them getting damaged.

Rockford Fosgate P3s or T1s should do the job. A buddy of mine had 2 RF T0 12s on 1400 watts in a 1st gen Navigator and he somehow had more bass than me. That made me a RF believer lol

You’ll almost never achieve what you have now and it will always leave you craving more bass.

I cannot for the life of me get a slim box behind my seat to hit as hard as a single 12 in a 2.5 cu box in the trunk.

I tried a single 12 in a long slim box. 4 8” subs in a slim box and now a 12” JLw6 in a wedge box.

The jl is pretty good but I’m still not getting that gut punch that I really am seeking.



However at your price range it may be worth while to look into a sub woofer named stereo integrity sql. They apparently pride themselves with great reviews to be a highly capable subwoofer in a small sealed box. They go for about $500 a piece though without the box.

Enclosure design parameters are everything for good strong sound, and slim boxes are about as far from optimal enclosure dimensions as one can get.

 

[SpareParts]

I do have the ability to control the front tweeters on their own channel, but i would need to run new wires for them depending on how they are powered now.
To run as the stereo as shown below, I think i would need 10 channels.
I do have the 1, 12in sub with an amp already, nor would i have fr woofer, so probably 7ch is all i would really use.