you could see if the ambient temp reading is relatively close to actual and map sensor is reading correctly, just a couple things that are easy to check without going down a rabbit hole.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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I think I am going to wait until I replace the trans to get a tune.
been waiting on this stupid control arm to ship from amazon for a month now, because it was $10 less than rockauto.....
canceled and ordered it this morning from rockauto and it shipped already..... tired of waiting... got a road trip in a couple weeks and need to get this front end done
canceled and ordered it this morning from rockauto and it shipped already..... tired of waiting... got a road trip in a couple weeks and need to get this front end done
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Wise choice. How many miles on your trans?
Plus I wanna make sure all the bugs are worked like like the one I am dealing with now. I was wondering maybe if there is an injector that got something stuck in it from the R&R process.
When I went to lunch today it was worst cold start yet, cranking 1rst time no fire. Crank 2 very long gave it some pedal fired up a few seconds afterwards big cloud of black smoke. Cleared right up and ran fine.
Shit's fkn with my OCD. Going to double check some simple things like the PCV hose air box to the right side VC. Too cold to fk around with it right now. It is starting to irk me I don't want to be gas washing the oil off the cylinders on cold starts with a new motor. Puzzling no codes or engine light.
No clue other than I know it's been rebuilt once. So 360K / 2 = 181K to keep it simple.
When I went to lunch today it was worst cold start yet, cranking 1rst time no fire. Crank 2 very long gave it some pedal fired up a few seconds afterwards big cloud of black smoke. Cleared right up and ran fine.
Shit's fkn with my OCD. Going to double check some simple things like the PCV hose air box to the right side VC. Too cold to fk around with it right now. It is starting to irk me I don't want to be gas washing the oil off the cylinders on cold starts with a new motor. Puzzling no codes or engine light.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Are they the old injectors, or a new set? Does it idle rough once it starts--like it's misfiring?
Look at fuel trims. Could be something as simple as the purge valve on the engine staying open when it shouldn't, letting fuel vapors into the intake (flood condition). Otherwise maybe sticky injector.
Next time it cranks but doesn't start, floor the accelerator and use clear flood mode, see if it starts then.
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They are original. Once it fires up and clears out it's perfectly fine.
I have no scanner to read those.
I remember the shop that put the motor in telling me a hose on the purge valve broke during R&R and had to be replaced. Maybe some debris got in there? I will look at it over the weekend. Make sure everything is connected properly and such.
I will try that clear mode next time. Thanks big F / Sammy.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
It's possible an injector could be leaking causing the smoke on startup.
That's a possibility. I had that issue with an '86 BMW 535i, so until new injectors arrived, I'd shut off the engine by pulling the fuel pump fuse, which ensured there was no pressure while sitting.
A fuel pressure gauge would tell you if the pressure was bleeding off faster than it should, along with pulling the plugs and checking for fuel.
But the plugs can be a pain on these things just to pull them to check them out.
But the plugs can be a pain on these things just to pull them to check them out.
Changed the oil on the Tahoe I bought, sent the sample in to Blackstone. Hoping it’s good. Not sure of the mileage on the oil, monitor said 10% left. Found a few drips of pink stuff on the crossmember under the trans so I torqued the pan bolts. There were some that were pretty loose. Also built the wiring harness for the Pioneer. I went with a Crux interface since the Maestro has increased in price again. Hoping everything works as it should.
you can usually find open box stuff on ebay for more reasonable prices
control arms are all in, I guess Sunday is spoken for, projected to be 70 deg perfect!
I'm glad these things don't have torsion bars, sure makes it a lot easier
I'm glad these things don't have torsion bars, sure makes it a lot easier
Installed the Pioneer 3050NEX and Arnott rear shocks. Everything is working correctly after some re-do on a couple things. Crutchfield helped me with getting the amp to turn on and I had a corroded connector where the right rear spoofing resistor plugged in. The old compressor still works! Still have to install the fender liners but I’m waiting a couple days until I’m sure that connector is GTG. Two wins in one day! I did unknowingly unplug that connector for stabilitrack/ traction control that everyone does when replacing the right rear shock. Figured it out instantly thanks to the forum. I had read about it so I knew where to look. So weird that I can’t unplug those things when I’m trying to but somehow that one popped off inadvertently.
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Whats the consensus on a decent set of rotors and pads for these? I’m not putting Wilwoods on this truck unfortunately; I’m spoiled with them on both my others though. Actually looking to go semi-budget. I have heard Power Stop is fairly decent. Looking at Rock Auto, there’s a ton of choices from cheap to ridiculous. I am considering their semi-coated SC2070 for about $310 shipped or maybe their “geomet” fully coated CRK2070 for about $30 more, not sure if there’s much difference. Not looking to spend much more than that. These prices are for all 4 corners.
I used to use Raybestos E3 pads and their rotors with the 3 tiger paw looking groves on everything and enjoyed them. Great initial bite and lasted forever without dust.
but this hybrid absolutely hated the initial bite thou, it messed with the regen braking badly. the transition was horrible from regen to brake pad. so after searching I found another guy using Warner brakes. looked into them, and they seem they might actually be USA made. ordered some of their QS quiet stop pads up as my truck also had groon from the rear brakes when creeping forward at say a drive thru or something. these have a pad of some kinda damper bonded to the pad backing plate.
so far these are the nicest aftermarket brakes I've driven. they legitimately feel like oem and dead silent at all times. I'm thinking they will be my go to brake recommendation now unless you need something high performance. they offer HD but I don't have any experience with them.
www.wagnerbrake.com
but this hybrid absolutely hated the initial bite thou, it messed with the regen braking badly. the transition was horrible from regen to brake pad. so after searching I found another guy using Warner brakes. looked into them, and they seem they might actually be USA made. ordered some of their QS quiet stop pads up as my truck also had groon from the rear brakes when creeping forward at say a drive thru or something. these have a pad of some kinda damper bonded to the pad backing plate.
so far these are the nicest aftermarket brakes I've driven. they legitimately feel like oem and dead silent at all times. I'm thinking they will be my go to brake recommendation now unless you need something high performance. they offer HD but I don't have any experience with them.
Brake Pads, Brake Parts, & Rotors | Wagner Brake
Rely on Wagner® to deliver superior quality, premium brakes and the highest design and manufacturing standards to keep your family and your car safe on the road.
You must mean Quick Stop, I don’t see any Quiet Stop from Wagner. I priced those with their rotors; it came out about the same as Power Stop for the same, coated type. Only thing is they show 2 different sets of pads- solid abutment clip or abutment clip with square hole. Not sure what I’d need without pulling them apart first. The Power Stop is the complete package, pads with rotors so I know they go together.I used to use Raybestos E3 pads and their rotors with the 3 tiger paw looking groves on everything and enjoyed them. Great initial bite and lasted forever without dust.
View attachment 451694
but this hybrid absolutely hated the initial bite thou, it messed with the regen braking badly. the transition was horrible from regen to brake pad. so after searching I found another guy using Warner brakes. looked into them, and they seem they might actually be USA made. ordered some of their QS quiet stop pads up as my truck also had groon from the rear brakes when creeping forward at say a drive thru or something. these have a pad of some kinda damper bonded to the pad backing plate.
so far these are the nicest aftermarket brakes I've driven. they legitimately feel like oem and dead silent at all times. I'm thinking they will be my go to brake recommendation now unless you need something high performance. they offer HD but I don't have any experience with them.
Brake Pads, Brake Parts, & Rotors | Wagner Brake
Rely on Wagner® to deliver superior quality, premium brakes and the highest design and manufacturing standards to keep your family and your car safe on the road.
I see the Raybestos Element 3 for about the same price too, $315 shipped. The pictures don’t show those groovy grooves though. Hmmm.
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man. my memory is crap these days i had to go look since I still had the box with the e3 pads I took off in.
they are TQ. thermal quiet not quiet stop.
you can see the damper pad in the pic.
a full kit is nice thou. it's always so hard to pick something you'll have to live with your years haha
they are TQ. thermal quiet not quiet stop.
you can see the damper pad in the pic.
a full kit is nice thou. it's always so hard to pick something you'll have to live with your years haha
