I didn't look up the codes. but just as info, if you mean your torque converter is locking and unlocking a lot. I've heard of it being a brake light switch. it you touch the brake it unlocks the converter. so if the switch is intermittent it can cause it to lock and unlock
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
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I didn't look up the codes. but just as info, if you mean your torque converter is locking and unlocking a lot. I've heard of it being a brake light switch. it you touch the brake it unlocks the converter. so if the switch is intermittent it can cause it to lock and unlock
Mickey_7106
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How can I prevent these wires from sticking to the plug? 5 out of the 8 ended up breaking. This set has been on since 2019 roughly about 60k miles
Mickey_7106
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What's weird is that the crimped end was super easy to pull out of the plug once it ripped off the wire
It's one of the few things I hate on these rigs. I don't know the answer. I tried dielectric grease on the boots, they still rip off. I got special pliers, nothing works. I keep a set of spare wires on hand just because of this. I got a messed up #7 cylinder I got to check the plug on once in a while.
@Trey Hardy
I have not ran any short wires or headers in years but when I did the fix was to use ceramic wires and/or a protective covering, fire resistant cover something like these
they worked quit well. they worked as designed.....
the heat is what causes the problem, that's why the oe wires have a heat shield
8x Spark Plug Wire Boot Heat Shield Protector Insulator Fire Sleeve Protect Boot | eBay
Heat Shielded Fire Sleeve. Heat Insulating. Our office hours are from 9:00 am – 5:30 pm.
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dielectric on the boots and keep the metal heat shields on and I've never pulled one out. I do have the special pliers too thou?
just twist them to break the seal and pull while wiggling. haven't broken one on an ls, I don't think ever. pulled some out of the old sbc cheap wires thou.
I run Magnecor on the ls3 car. guys complain about them pulling out, but had them off countless times without issue but that is with heat shield.
just twist them to break the seal and pull while wiggling. haven't broken one on an ls, I don't think ever. pulled some out of the old sbc cheap wires thou.
I run Magnecor on the ls3 car. guys complain about them pulling out, but had them off countless times without issue but that is with heat shield.
I replaced the 12v power outlet bezels and covers.
One was broken off completely and the other one was just barely hanging on for the last year.
RA had genuine GM pieces for like $3.67 each plus shipping.
I should have ordered some extras but I want to add USB outlets to at least one of the power outlets.
One was broken off completely and the other one was just barely hanging on for the last year.
RA had genuine GM pieces for like $3.67 each plus shipping.
I should have ordered some extras but I want to add USB outlets to at least one of the power outlets.
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RooTBeeRthe1st
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Finally washed the outside, interior needs a deep clean.
Coolant is a tad low. Didn't check oil but I'm sure it's below full.
Also dash crack is getting worse... been stable for a few years with 1 small crack between the airbag and defrost vents.
Now it's still that one crack, but the dashboard started to drop down about 3/8" below where it should be.
Probably going to look into pulling the cover out and some plastic weld of something to brace it and flush again...we shall see.
Coolant is a tad low. Didn't check oil but I'm sure it's below full.
Also dash crack is getting worse... been stable for a few years with 1 small crack between the airbag and defrost vents.
Now it's still that one crack, but the dashboard started to drop down about 3/8" below where it should be.
Probably going to look into pulling the cover out and some plastic weld of something to brace it and flush again...we shall see.
I am pleased to report that my driver's side floor pan is now finally bone dry after sealing the shark fin.
I also got a rash of sh*t from co-workers, F & F about the factory rims, so I swapped the PPV wheels back on to S them TFU.
Had some hot wings with blue cheese, curly fries and a Snickers ice cream cup. Heading to la la land now.
I also got a rash of sh*t from co-workers, F & F about the factory rims, so I swapped the PPV wheels back on to S them TFU.
Had some hot wings with blue cheese, curly fries and a Snickers ice cream cup. Heading to la la land now.
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You should replace those tee's and the heater hose nipple where it is crimped. They are 3 separate parts and a major PITA. But if one of them let's go on the road that is worst, bad news bears.
Ah I see! They are the lines into the heater core right? Other end of the hose goes into the water pump. Might just do a full on coolant swap while I'm at it
CMoore711
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The timing for your torque converter may not align with this rebuild. But if I were you I’d still consider sending it in to get serviced, refreshed and then sell it as new on here. Document the refresh service, save receipts, and I bet you could easily. And would help Cecil some funds from the rebuild…
992dr
Full Access Member
Yeah, it's kind of a bummer. But I agree, I'll definitely send it back for a refresh and keep all the paperwork for it.
If I can catch my mechanic at the right time, he may be able to put it back in as long as he's not tied up too much.
Otherwise, I will post it up.
So for some reason my Bose system is messed up, I only have sound coming from the a-pillar tweeters and the r/f front door panel and the sub in the console. No sound whatsoever on d/s front, 2nd row doors, or d-pillars in the back. Any thoughts from you audio guys? It is a stock non nav head unit. I think it has been like this for a while I am just getting into trying to diagnose. If it is not something simple I will rip out all the factory and go full aftermarket.
I did remove the rear audio control panel in the rear of the console. Don't know if that has something to do with it or not.
@mikez71 @j91z28d1 any thoughts?
I did remove the rear audio control panel in the rear of the console. Don't know if that has something to do with it or not.
@mikez71 @j91z28d1 any thoughts?
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If you have a tech2 you can test the amp, channel by channel it sends a tone to each one
And that rear control i believe does have something to do with it, try plugging it back in
Filled the washer fluid and changed out a couple wire stand offs that were broken, salvaged a few decent ones from the junkyard, then replaced a couple sections of wire loom purchased a big box full of loom and shrink wrap for like $30-40 off of eBay a while back, these clips you can't get separate you have to buy a wire harness to get them
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I lost it.
Well.....junkyard or eBay I think they are all the same except the ones with the rear screens have rca'sI lost it.
