Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Think those green O rings will hold up to brake fluid? Black O rings?
I need to use O rings in my ppv caps.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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I need to use O rings in my ppv caps.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
None, in my Crown Victoria I had to replace a brake line from the mc to the abs module and it keeps leaking where i made the flare going to the abs module. It's tight but I don't think the flare is large enough to keep the fluid sneaking past it. I've tried twice to replace it and it keeps leaking. I was thinking of trying an O ring between the flare and the nut on the end of it, hoping it'll squeeze it tight enough to keep the brake juice in. I wasn't sure if the black O rings would hold up to the corrosive fluid. I know green O rings are used in some ac systems, and I assume page oil or refrigerant is corrosive. Whatcha think?How much brake fluid do you have on your wheels and caps?
I don't know brother. They are from an assortment kit I bought many years ago.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I didn't know there was a different variety of flare styles. Pretty sure it was the SAE/Double Flare style.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Forgot to add the finished pic after getting the better harmonic balancer screwed in, and the belts back on. You don't need the helper tool to get the A/C stretch-belt back on if you have strong fingers.
I was also troubleshooting why my driver's foglight was always flickering, and discovered the solder in the harness had broken, and the solastic goo that sealed the harness was the only thing holding them together.
I scraped the goo out of the harness adapter, resoldered the connections, and filled/potted the harness with room temperature vulcanization cream. Seems to be working fine now. Back to having two yellow foglights.
I was also troubleshooting why my driver's foglight was always flickering, and discovered the solder in the harness had broken, and the solastic goo that sealed the harness was the only thing holding them together.
I scraped the goo out of the harness adapter, resoldered the connections, and filled/potted the harness with room temperature vulcanization cream. Seems to be working fine now. Back to having two yellow foglights.
I need to pull the driver side fender liner back so I can see if my windshield fluid tank is cracked.
I just filled it with winter fluid and it is now all gone.
It was holding fine with regular fluid just a few weeks ago but now it's empty.
I just filled it with winter fluid and it is now all gone.
It was holding fine with regular fluid just a few weeks ago but now it's empty.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
IIRC, there are two outlets (front sprayer & rear sprayer) on the tank that gets brittle with age & heat.
The whole washer reservoir is a design failure, especially how you can't pour too fast into the opening or else fluid splashes out everywhere.
On every other car I've owned, you could tip the entire gallon jug into the opening, then pop a hole in the bottom of the fluid jug to speed-feed the fluid into the reservoir.
Can't do that with ours!
the pumps have a tendency to crack (and then leak) more than the tank
but.. i guess if the tank is completely empty that's a giveaway, otherwise if the level is even with one of the pumps the one above the level is the leaker
According to Alldata, the rear pump is mounted higher in the tank than the windshield pump.
I tried to activate the rear the other day after it had rained and the rear glass was all nasty and nothing came out.
I figured it was a hose issue but then I got the Low Fluid warning and now the front is dead, too.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
According to Alldata, the rear pump is mounted higher in the tank than the windshield pump.
I tried to activate the rear the other day after it had rained and the rear glass was all nasty and nothing came out.
I figured it was a hose issue but then I got the Low Fluid warning and now the front is dead, too.
There's a lot of hose from the front tank to the rear wiper, and if there's a leak somewhere you may have to repressurize the entire line back to the truck, which can take a while.
Either way, good luck on fixing the squirting issue.
Well gents I am being cautiously optimistic that I finally solved this damned wet front carpet issue. On Saturday I did a full perimeter of sealant on the shark fin. Ran it through the car wash Sunday night. I checked the floor today and it is not as wet as it usually is. Still needs to dry out but I think I have it nipped.
bigrhino
Full Access Member
Washed on Sunday.
Rear wiper update, put a little bit of water in the tank and tried the rear washer, fluid was coming out from under the driver side rear bumper area.
Took my mom on a few errands and noticed when I was parked on an uphill incline, there was a lot of water under the rear.
Crawled under real quick but didn't see anything obvious.
Going to have a look after I pick up my daughter.
There could be an entire piece of hose missing but I don't know what it is supposed to look like under there.
Took my mom on a few errands and noticed when I was parked on an uphill incline, there was a lot of water under the rear.
Crawled under real quick but didn't see anything obvious.
Going to have a look after I pick up my daughter.
There could be an entire piece of hose missing but I don't know what it is supposed to look like under there.
I believe the line goes from there up into the body and roof thru the hole where the wire harness is and into the rear hatch.
you'll have to find the line on the frame going to the rear
easiest way is probably get under there with a flashlight and have someone hit the rear washer button and watch where it leaks at.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Had a similar situation with my 03. The hose connection came undone. Just plugged the 2 hoses back together and no more leak.
It was the same issue, added more water and hit the button for the rear washer and this connection had come undone.
The stiffer, plastic hose was nowhere near the other piece so I didn't think it was even part of the system until I saw water coming out with the rear washer pump operating.
It was hiding behind that wire loom and hose on the right side of the picture.
All fixed and fresh winter fluid added.
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992dr
Full Access Member
Went for a couple of drives longest was today.Greeted by P0700 & P0741 on my way for a 6 hour round trip drive (boy was that a long ass drive), I changed the TCC solenoid today and voila back to normal. I'll go for a longer drive tomorrow juuuust to make sure
Yesterday it wouldn't lock up going but did coming back. Stopped and had them pull the code and the only one that came up was P0700. Had them clear it and it seemed to be doing fine but it was definitely locking up at random and at some points not at all.
Today, drove 45 minutes and it would lock and unlock again at random. Drive home it locked up then randomly unlocked and threw a CEL. Pulled it again and it was P0700 and P0741.
Even after changing the filter and TCC solenoid, it didn't do anything.
I called my mechanic, and he recommended a transmission shop. He'll be calling me tomorrow to see if he was able to find a reman. Kinda sucks, was hoping to get more out of this one. I also have a billet stall but he wont reuse it because it will void any warranty for the reman so, I need a new converter. Which I'd send mine to get it serviced but they're out 2 to 3 weeks.
Yay
Sorry to rant
Sorry to hear that.
Especially lousy that you have a great TC that cannot be reused until you can get it rebuilt.
Swapping in a new TC is something I need to do with mine before the OEM one shreds itself and trashes the trans.
