Useless Information

[swathdiver]

My helper and I got after the axle the other morning and got the backlash to .003 without using the J-24429 spanner. Using the spanner to turn the adjuster up another 5 slots got us to .005 and I called it good and went to doing the gear tooth contact pattern. As you can see, it's not perfect to my eye but not worth taking the axle apart to put a shim on the pinion gear. What say you?




We then moved to cleaning up the cast parking brake anchors and rubber gaskets and mating them up with the new brake backing plates until we ran out of brake cleaner and called it a day.

I went ahead and ordered new axles. The description at RA said "with studs" so I took them out of my shopping cart. Well, they didn't come with studs, the description means that that is the kind of axle shaft, it has 6 studs and not 5. So now I've got to hunt up some new ones and get those in before the shafts go into the axle.

The weather was noticeably cooler today which was nice.

 

[Big Mama]

Daughters helping with this?

 

[mountie]

Drove from West Palm Beach to Ocala, Florida ( Garlits Museum)... and back...
485 miles round trip..... used 3/4 tank total..... Average speed 75 to 80 mph on the freeway.

I'm impressed !!

 

[swathdiver]

Daughters helping with this?

Not this time, one of their boyfriend's was helping me, he's a mechanic by trade, just not this kind of stuff yet.

Drove from West Palm Beach to Ocala, Florida ( Garlits Museum)... and back...
485 miles round trip..... used 3/4 tank total..... Average speed 75 to 80 mph on the freeway.

I'm impressed !!

How'd you like the museum? We enjoyed it so much a return trip is in order someday soon!

 

[mountie]

Not this time, one of their boyfriend's was helping me, he's a mechanic by trade, just not this kind of stuff yet.

How'd you like the museum? We enjoyed it so much a return trip is in order someday soon!

Kenny Youngblood and I spent a couple hours, with Garlits, where no one can go... His office and then his back shops..... He was showing how his latest battery powered dragster works, looking at some vintage-Garlits stuff, etc.... It was a 'historic' tour, for sure!! Then Kenny walked me around and described the little details about the cars in the museum.... ( video taped on "Kenny Youngblood-Facebook" page too!!
I took pics of Kenny in front of his wall murals, for him...
What a fun day !!

 

[swathdiver]

Back in April we walked out to start the Yukon after it had been sitting a while and it barely turned over but did. The Tech-2 showed that the State of Charge was 64%. That's replacement territory. I chalked it up to having been sitting and only making short runs.

Over the next few months I would spot check the SOC and it was always good, in the 70s and 80s.

This past Sunday we had used the truck in the morning for errands and then drove over to Bass Pro Shops to pick up a birthday present, about 10 minutes away. When we came out she was dead and would not turn over. A couple of jump boxes from employees could not get her started. So my wife started showing some leg in the parking lot and a dude came over with jumper cables that were falling apart and could not get the truck started either.

Then my daughter arrives with the jump box that was supposed to be in my truck. She'd been using while camping and of course it was dead. So I sent her down the road to buy a set of jumper cables and 30 minutes later I was on my way to birthday dinner for a nephew.

Drove the truck a few more times. Then made a 2 hour airport run and came home for an hour. Went back out to run errands and she was dead again. Put her on the tender overnight.

Went out this morning to check the State of Charge with the Tech-2 and the CanDi module was dead. My daughter didn't put it away properly, she twisted the cables all up which causes them to split internally inside the casing and you cannot repair it. So I ordered another set of cables from China. The problem is explained well in this video:

So I called my local dealership and got another high reserve capacity battery, a 48GHRA. We put a 48 GHR in the Sierra but as of late I cannot find out what the difference between them is.

So, the ACDelco 48HPG was installed on Christmas Day in 2020 and went 44,421 miles in 1,400 hours. I should have replaced it 5-6K miles ago so my wife wouldn't get stuck; even with me! Did I mention that this is a 42 month free replacement battery that lasted 43 months? LOL




The new batteries have more cranking amps, less reserve capacity and draw and are almost 7 pounds lighter.

Never a dull moment. Wheel studs should be in tomorrow and of course, the engine hours reset again with all the electrical shorts! LOL

 

[kbuskill]

Back in April we walked out to start the Yukon after it had been sitting a while and it barely turned over but did. The Tech-2 showed that the State of Charge was 64%. That's replacement territory. I chalked it up to having been sitting and only making short runs.

Over the next few months I would spot check the SOC and it was always good, in the 70s and 80s.

This past Sunday we had used the truck in the morning for errands and then drove over to Bass Pro Shops to pick up a birthday present, about 10 minutes away. When we came out she was dead and would not turn over. A couple of jump boxes from employees could not get her started. So my wife started showing some leg in the parking lot and a dude came over with jumper cables that were falling apart and could not get the truck started either.

Then my daughter arrives with the jump box that was supposed to be in my truck. She'd been using while camping and of course it was dead. So I sent her down the road to buy a set of jumper cables and 30 minutes later I was on my way to birthday dinner for a nephew.

Drove the truck a few more times. Then made a 2 hour airport run and came home for an hour. Went back out to run errands and she was dead again. Put her on the tender overnight.

Went out this morning to check the State of Charge with the Tech-2 and the CanDi module was dead. My daughter didn't put it away properly, she twisted the cables all up which causes them to split internally inside the casing and you cannot repair it. So I ordered another set of cables from China. The problem is explained well in this video:

So I called my local dealership and got another high reserve capacity battery, a 48GHRA. We put a 48 GHR in the Sierra but as of late I cannot find out what the difference between them is.

So, the ACDelco 48HPG was installed on Christmas Day in 2020 and went 44,421 miles in 1,400 hours. I should have replaced it 5-6K miles ago so my wife wouldn't get stuck; even with me! Did I mention that this is a 42 month free replacement battery that lasted 43 months? LOL


View attachment 435847

The new batteries have more cranking amps, less reserve capacity and draw and are almost 7 pounds lighter.

Never a dull moment. Wheel studs should be in tomorrow and of course, the engine hours reset again with all the electrical shorts! LOL

Thanks for posting that video.

My Candi module isn't being recognized by my Tech 2 any more. What is weird is mine still lights up and I can hear it click but the Tech 2 can't see it for some reason.

I will probably just sell the whole thing. I got irritated and bought a new tablet style Bidirectional scan tool that works on pretty much everything instead of just older GM stuff.

I also keep having a knock sensor code pop up (P0328). I replaced the knock sensors with genuine GM and still have the same issue. I can't hear anything rattling or pinging or knocking or anything, even reving it up so I am at a loss. I may try to run some water through the vacuum hose on the brake booster to see if maybe it has some carbon build up and maybe it is causing some pre-detonation. I consistently run 89 octane as that is what it is tuned for.

Any ideas?

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks for posting that video.

My Candi module isn't being recognized by my Tech 2 any more. What is weird is mine still lights up and I can hear it click but the Tech 2 can't see it for some reason.

I will probably just sell the whole thing. I got irritated and bought a new tablet style Bidirectional scan tool that works on pretty much everything instead of just older GM stuff.

I also keep having a knock sensor code pop up (P0328). I replaced the knock sensors with genuine GM and still have the same issue. I can't hear anything rattling or pinging or knocking or anything, even reving it up so I am at a loss. I may try to run some water through the vacuum hose on the brake booster to see if maybe it has some carbon build up and maybe it is causing some pre-detonation. I consistently run 89 octane as that is what it is tuned for.

Any ideas?

Good to hear from you Ken!

I spent like $26 for new cables today on Ebay for the Tech-2. Had the same issue two years ago and bought a whole new Candi Module. Mine does the same thing, it lights up and clicks but the Tech-2 cannot see it anymore.

I bought an MDI a while ago and then got a laptop but haven't used it yet or set up the software. The Tech-2 is handier still. If you decide to sell it, let me know. We'll be up that way in November for a football game.

I think you have a wiring harness issue, a shorted wire probably. Here's what my shop manual says:

 

[kbuskill]

Good to hear from you Ken!

I spent like $26 for new cables today on Ebay for the Tech-2. Had the same issue two years ago and bought a whole new Candi Module. Mine does the same thing, it lights up and clicks but the Tech-2 cannot see it anymore.

I bought an MDI a while ago and then got a laptop but haven't used it yet or set up the software. The Tech-2 is handier still. If you decide to sell it, let me know. We'll be up that way in November for a football game.

I think you have a wiring harness issue, a shorted wire probably. Here's what my shop manual says:

View attachment 435849View attachment 435850

You were right on the money with your assessment, as usual.

To make a long story short I also got a P0641 code the other day which caused the truck to go into "reduced power mode". Turns out the 5V reference circuit, which feeds 7 different sensors, was shorting out to the drivers side knock sensor signal wire.

The damage was caused by the stud sticking up in between cylinder 1 and 3 coil packs. It had found its way into the main harness from the ECM going up to the top of the intake manifold and nicked the Grey 5V reference and Blue Knock sensor signal wires.

Since fixing it I have had zero codes, which is good because I was starting to question my sanity.

I plan on replacing ALL of the wire loom under the hood as it is old and brittle, if it is even still intact.

I just thought I would update this here for future posterity.

And to say thanks, James, for pointing me in the right direction.

 

[swathdiver]

I plan on replacing ALL of the wire loom under the hood as it is old and brittle, if it is even still intact.

Glad you found the offending wire Ken, those things drive me crazy too. I miss my buddy who used to handle my electrical problems!

Don't know if you've picked out supplies for your wiring harness overhaul, this is what I used:

4 Bags - Taylor 38000 - Convoluted Tubing Assortment
10' - American Terminal - Wire Loom - 1.5 x 10'
5 Rolls - Red Wolf - Wiring Harness Tape - 3/4" x 50'

Note, this was enough to do 2 trucks and I "think" there might be enough to do a 3rd.

 

[kbuskill]

Glad you found the offending wire Ken, those things drive me crazy too. I miss my buddy who used to handle my electrical problems!

Don't know if you've picked out supplies for your wiring harness overhaul, this is what I used:

4 Bags - Taylor 38000 - Convoluted Tubing Assortment
10' - American Terminal - Wire Loom - 1.5 x 10'
5 Rolls - Red Wolf - Wiring Harness Tape - 3/4" x 50'

Note, this was enough to do 2 trucks and I "think" there might be enough to do a 3rd.

This is what I ordered...

Design Engineering 010663 Easy Loom Split Sleeve Master Kit - Complete Vehicle Wire and Hose Protection https://a.co/d/hIP1ccV

• Includes 5 different diameter Easy Loom sleeves, shrink tube ends, silicone tape, locking ties, and electrical tape for a professional install
• Self-closing split design with 30% overlap
• Peak temperature rating of 347°F (melting point of 500°F)
• Professional look and added protection against heat and the elements
• Everything you need to protect and restore your factory or aftermarket wire harness

• 1" ID x 6ft Easy Loom,
• 3/4" ID x 10ft Easy Loom,
• 1/2" ID x 30ft Easy Loom,
• 5/16" ID x 60ft Easy Loom,
• 3/16" ID x 15ft Easy Loom,
• 3/8" ID x 2ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/4" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/2" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• Cable Ties 8" (40),
• Cable Ties 4" (100),
• Silicone Tape 1" x 12ft,
• Electrical Tape 3/4" x 20 yards

We used this kit when we built the LS harness for my son's 24X swap TPI SBC. It is a really nice kit, plus the jungle site had 1 "used like new" for $89 so I couldn't pass it up.

I am not looking forward to having to do this with the harness in the truck but maybe it won't be too bad.

 

[swathdiver]

This is what I ordered...

Design Engineering 010663 Easy Loom Split Sleeve Master Kit - Complete Vehicle Wire and Hose Protection https://a.co/d/hIP1ccV

• Includes 5 different diameter Easy Loom sleeves, shrink tube ends, silicone tape, locking ties, and electrical tape for a professional install
• Self-closing split design with 30% overlap
• Peak temperature rating of 347°F (melting point of 500°F)
• Professional look and added protection against heat and the elements
• Everything you need to protect and restore your factory or aftermarket wire harness
• 1" ID x 6ft Easy Loom,
• 3/4" ID x 10ft Easy Loom,
• 1/2" ID x 30ft Easy Loom,
• 5/16" ID x 60ft Easy Loom,
• 3/16" ID x 15ft Easy Loom,
• 3/8" ID x 2ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/4" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/2" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• Cable Ties 8" (40),
• Cable Ties 4" (100),
• Silicone Tape 1" x 12ft,
• Electrical Tape 3/4" x 20 yards

We used this kit when we built the LS harness for my son's 24X swap TPI SBC. It is a really nice kit, plus the jungle site had 1 "used like new" for $89 so I couldn't pass it up.

I am not looking forward to having to do this with the harness in the truck but maybe it won't be too bad.

Wow, wish I'd known about that kit when we did ours! Looks great! It's not too bad, but what am I saying? I paid a guy to do mine! LOL

 

[kbuskill]

I paid a guy to do mine! LOL

You are right, that doesn't sound to bad at all... lol

 

[Geotrash]

This is what I ordered...

Design Engineering 010663 Easy Loom Split Sleeve Master Kit - Complete Vehicle Wire and Hose Protection https://a.co/d/hIP1ccV

• Includes 5 different diameter Easy Loom sleeves, shrink tube ends, silicone tape, locking ties, and electrical tape for a professional install
• Self-closing split design with 30% overlap
• Peak temperature rating of 347°F (melting point of 500°F)
• Professional look and added protection against heat and the elements
• Everything you need to protect and restore your factory or aftermarket wire harness

• 1" ID x 6ft Easy Loom,
• 3/4" ID x 10ft Easy Loom,
• 1/2" ID x 30ft Easy Loom,
• 5/16" ID x 60ft Easy Loom,
• 3/16" ID x 15ft Easy Loom,
• 3/8" ID x 2ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/4" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/2" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• Cable Ties 8" (40),
• Cable Ties 4" (100),
• Silicone Tape 1" x 12ft,
• Electrical Tape 3/4" x 20 yards

We used this kit when we built the LS harness for my son's 24X swap TPI SBC. It is a really nice kit, plus the jungle site had 1 "used like new" for $89 so I couldn't pass it up.

I am not looking forward to having to do this with the harness in the truck but maybe it won't be too bad.

Hot tip! Thanks man!

 

[j91z28d1]

This is what I ordered...

Design Engineering 010663 Easy Loom Split Sleeve Master Kit - Complete Vehicle Wire and Hose Protection https://a.co/d/hIP1ccV

• Includes 5 different diameter Easy Loom sleeves, shrink tube ends, silicone tape, locking ties, and electrical tape for a professional install
• Self-closing split design with 30% overlap
• Peak temperature rating of 347°F (melting point of 500°F)
• Professional look and added protection against heat and the elements
• Everything you need to protect and restore your factory or aftermarket wire harness

• 1" ID x 6ft Easy Loom,
• 3/4" ID x 10ft Easy Loom,
• 1/2" ID x 30ft Easy Loom,
• 5/16" ID x 60ft Easy Loom,
• 3/16" ID x 15ft Easy Loom,
• 3/8" ID x 2ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/4" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• 1/2" x 1ft Shrink Tubing,
• Cable Ties 8" (40),
• Cable Ties 4" (100),
• Silicone Tape 1" x 12ft,
• Electrical Tape 3/4" x 20 yards

We used this kit when we built the LS harness for my son's 24X swap TPI SBC. It is a really nice kit, plus the jungle site had 1 "used like new" for $89 so I couldn't pass it up.

I am not looking forward to having to do this with the harness in the truck but maybe it won't be too bad.

wow, I use dei stuff all over the place and I never knew about this kit. I think I'll be buying that to keep on hand.

on a side note, this also popped up.. braided heat shrink? what?

Sonoreboom 2 in 1 Heat Shrink Braided Sleeving Fabric Tubing-Perfectly fit Irregular Shape Hose/Cable/Wire (3/8"(10mm), 22FT) https://a.co/d/7DhB2YY

how did I not know about about this surff lol. on a side not.. soft spot for the old tpi. miss those torque days haha.

 

[gooffeyguy]

wow, I use dei stuff all over the place and I never knew about this kit. I think I'll be buying that to keep on hand.

on a side note, this also popped up.. braided heat shrink? what?

Sonoreboom 2 in 1 Heat Shrink Braided Sleeving Fabric Tubing-Perfectly fit Irregular Shape Hose/Cable/Wire (3/8"(10mm), 22FT) https://a.co/d/7DhB2YY

how did I not know about about this surff lol. on a side not.. soft spot for the old tpi. miss those torque days haha.

Sooo, is the size listing before shrinkage?

It'd be more work to put on, but if it fits easy over plug connectors then able to shrink with a heat gun, it might be worth a shot for replacing the damn crumbling wireloom in the engine bay.

EDIT:

Would the engine heat cause it to shrink? or maybe cause it to shrink tighter than you want it?

 

[kbuskill]

wow, I use dei stuff all over the place and I never knew about this kit. I think I'll be buying that to keep on hand.

on a side note, this also popped up.. braided heat shrink? what?

Sonoreboom 2 in 1 Heat Shrink Braided Sleeving Fabric Tubing-Perfectly fit Irregular Shape Hose/Cable/Wire (3/8"(10mm), 22FT) https://a.co/d/7DhB2YY

how did I not know about about this surff lol. on a side not.. soft spot for the old tpi. miss those torque days haha.

Yeah, this is a heavily modified TPI running a siamesed and ported Scroggins Dickey lower intake to match up to the Vortec heads, Arizona Speed & Marine big mouth runners and a bigger throttle body. Everything has been gasket matched including the heads. The engine is balanced and blueprinted, .020 over with flat top pistons and a .015 head gasket, so around 11:1 compression. The beauty of the 24X kit is the ability to run this old iron off of the modern LS computer and harness so that you have modern tunability instead of having to burn chips like in the old days.

Here is a pic of his intake, Black wrinkle powder with "Chrome" powder coated runners. This will be a cool, period correct swap when it is finished.

 

[j91z28d1]

Sooo, is the size listing before shrinkage?

It'd be more work to put on, but if it fits easy over plug connectors then able to shrink with a heat gun, it might be worth a shot for replacing the damn crumbling wireloom in the engine bay.

EDIT:

Would the engine heat cause it to shrink? or maybe cause it to shrink tighter than you want it?

yeah I don't know, I've never used it but it might self shrink haha. close hood, go for a drive come back and it's all neat and tidy haha. the dei one is probably better cause all. their stuff is high quality but that's still cool.

 

[swathdiver]

Yeah, this is a heavily modified TPI running a siamesed and ported Scroggins Dickey lower intake to match up to the Vortec heads, Arizona Speed & Marine big mouth runners and a bigger throttle body. Everything has been gasket matched including the heads. The engine is balanced and blueprinted, .020 over with flat top pistons and a .015 head gasket, so around 11:1 compression. The beauty of the 24X kit is the ability to run this old iron off of the modern LS computer and harness so that you have modern tunability instead of burn chips like in the old days.

Here is a pic of his intake, Black wrinkle powder with "Chrome" powder coated runners. This will be a cool, period correct swap when it is finished.
View attachment 436533

Back when GM cared about what engines looked like! Always loved the look of those motors and those runners. Our LSs win the ugly award!

 

[j91z28d1]

Yeah, this is a heavily modified TPI running a siamesed and ported Scroggins Dickey lower intake to match up to the Vortec heads, Arizona Speed & Marine big mouth runners and a bigger throttle body. Everything has been gasket matched including the heads. The engine is balanced and blueprinted, .020 over with flat top pistons and a .015 head gasket, so around 11:1 compression. The beauty of the 24X kit is the ability to run this old iron off of the modern LS computer and harness so that you have modern tunability instead of burn chips like in the old days.

Here is a pic of his intake, Black wrinkle powder with "Chrome" powder coated runners. This will be a cool, period correct swap when it is finished.
View attachment 436533

sorry to high jack your thread.

that looks great. going to be such a punchy setup. I had some of those runners and a hand ported plenum on a 406 for a little bit. all done by 4500rpm but man if you found some concrete that would hold 1st gear stab at 1500 it hit like a nitrous hit haha. funny I am just now talking to a guy on the 3rd Gen board thst wants to buy them. they are pretty beat up, I told him 100$. Just gotta box it up for him tomorrow. got a super ram on it now, so don't think I'll use them again, sadly the car sits in the garage more then it gets worked on.


I honestly don't like the new ls tuning with hp tuners that much. I was still flashing the old code 59 stuff using moates, real time flashing made tuning idle with a cam so much eaiser but the battery seems to have failed in it. the file needs reflashed after ever key cycle. I picked up one of the last ebl p4 for it, but it's still on the shelf next to it. gotta get all these newer broken beaters fixed so I can spend some time on the formula haha