OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Thanks fellas.
Budget rebuild items?
- Thread starter Charlie207
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
All stripped down, except for the cam bearings.
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Now THAT is a satisfying picture for my OCD. Everything is in order, and you kept the rod bearings and caps together because they're neither reversible nor interchangeable. Nice.
And, after a trip to the machine shop, those parts will look like brand new.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
When I looked at that block, this rivet thingy came to mind:
www.enginelabs.com
Gen IV & V AFM DOD Block Delete Tool Kit
Check out the deal on Gen IV & V AFM DOD Block Delete Tool Kit at Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
www.lingenfelter.com
Plugging LS Blocks to Delete AFM/DOD
Disabling AFM/DOD on LS engines requires plugging the oil-feed holes in the block. Here's a quick and easy tool from Lingenfelter for that job!
www.enginelabs.com
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
When I looked at that block, this rivet thingy came to mind:
Gen IV & V AFM DOD Block Delete Tool Kit
Check out the deal on Gen IV & V AFM DOD Block Delete Tool Kit at Lingenfelter Performance Engineeringwww.lingenfelter.comPlugging LS Blocks to Delete AFM/DOD
Disabling AFM/DOD on LS engines requires plugging the oil-feed holes in the block. Here's a quick and easy tool from Lingenfelter for that job!
So this was a non-DOD engine (allegedly), and I was curious if there should have been AFM oil passages. That's what those are, right?
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
I feel like I'm stuck in a decision loop. To send the heads to the shop I'd want to have them install new valve seals. But when choosing the seals I figure get a kit (or not?) with an upgraded cam and valve springs. The problem is I'm not sure which cam to focus on.
I'm looking to keep/improve down-low torque. It won't be a racecar, and I'm not super concerned with 6000+ RPM gains as the deciding factor.
I like the Truck Norris cam, but am trying to compare to some of the offerings from Cam Motion, and others if worth it. Thoughts?
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Precision, PLEASE.
The block has Engine Half@$$ for sure.
Were all the lifters the same, or were some of them Half@$$ lifters?
(Obviously, don't want no Half@$$'n.)
Just compare cams til you find one that makes as much (if not more) torque / power UNDER 3500RpM compared to the one you just took out of that engine.
The block has Engine Half@$$ for sure.
Were all the lifters the same, or were some of them Half@$$ lifters?
(Obviously, don't want no Half@$$'n.)
Just compare cams til you find one that makes as much (if not more) torque / power UNDER 3500RpM compared to the one you just took out of that engine.
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Attachments
strutaeng
Full Access Member
I'm using a Summit SUM-8718R1 on my recent LQ4 rebuild project for my 06 Suburban 2500. It's like a towing cam. No springs required and I've read not much tuning required...I'm about to find out, LOL. IDK if you can use that one your engine, it has the 3 bolt for the sprocket. You may have to get rid of the VVT?
TTY head bolts with engine in-vehicle
I finally finished cleaning the pistons! Today I washed the block. Soapy water, brush cleaning kit, then dried immediately with compressed air and sprayed it with PB Blaster. I decided to do a quick paint with Rust-Oleum, paintbrush special. I also realized one of my motor mounts is broken...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
I totally get the decision loop. I've been there with a similar set of circumstances. In my case, I wanted durability, good daily driver manners, and more low to midrange power for towing. I ended up with a Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam, specifically ground for the 6.2L, which is what it was going into. They make 2 versions: a high-lift version (.553) requiring upgraded valve springs, and a 'drop-in' version (.501) that can use the stock springs. BTR makes a beehive performance spring that's good for .560, so I went with those.
Both versions are ground specifically for the engine displacement you're working with and the specs are different for each engine on the cam motion website, accordingly. The stage 2 truck cam for the 6.0 has different specs than the stage 2 truck cam for the 6.2 or the 5.3. I like that. The ones in the kits from other vendors mostly all use the same grind for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 engines, so there are compromises that came from that, which I experienced first-hand when I had a BTR stage 2 cam previously.
I suspect most of us have a bias that favors our own past choices, so I'll own that, but I'm really happy with my choice. I drive my cammed 2012 back-to-back with my stock 2007 Yukon XL Denali (both 6.2L), and the difference is stark but the cammed 2012 still has a smooth idle.
If I were in your shoes, I would be looking at the Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam for the 6.0 in the high-lift version because it has it all. Even though the lift is .553, that's still a lot less than many of the other cams out there, which are .600+, so it should still provide excellent durability while waking up that engine. I'd pair it with the BTR .560 beehive springs, BTR (made by Fel-Pro) top-hat style valve stem seals, Chevrolet Performance LS7 lifters, BTR chromoly 7.400" pushrods and GM lifter trays, and send it.
You'll also need a new non-VVT timing cover with 3-bolt sprocket with 4x reluctor. Also, all of this shit was a lot cheaper just 4 years ago when I was doing this work. The timing cover kit alone is almost 2x more expensive now. Yikes! At least the cam is still the same price.
Also, GM does make a set of beehive springs good for .570.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
@Geotrash
Any reason why VVT deleting is preferred? I was under the assumption that VVT helped provide more power/torque across a wider RPM range.
Also, does this look like the same delete kit, minus the two gaskets? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962566504...ds8FB46Pbk6BLXIbQU1zwb79MYRs7jLFESutn9O152zBE
Any reason why VVT deleting is preferred? I was under the assumption that VVT helped provide more power/torque across a wider RPM range.
Also, does this look like the same delete kit, minus the two gaskets? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1962566504...ds8FB46Pbk6BLXIbQU1zwb79MYRs7jLFESutn9O152zBE
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
This statement primarily applies to the cam GM put in their engines in the first place.
They spec'd a cam designed to last about 175,000 miles, satisfy NVH / MpG / emissions goals, cooperate with Engine Half@$$, etc, and leave themselves room to improve in a few years with the next version.
Specifically regarding VVT:
the stronger the valvesprings, the harder VVT has to work to retard the cam, and the fewer degrees it can retard it.
There are 'less-VVT' cams that are made to cooperate with a VVT limiter.
huh huhhuh ...
VVT does that better in a DOHC engine where each cam can be adjusted through a much wider range to optimize performance. In these engines with a single cam for all intake and exhaust events, it’s not as effective.
Regardless, like anything else, there are opinions on both sides. For my part, I wanted one less thing to go wrong and I haven’t missed it. My 2012 performs better throughout the rev range than my 2007, despite it now lacking VVT. The better cam makes up for it.
I’m not sure on the delete kit. It doesn’t say what the reluctor wheel is.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
If you opt to delete the VVT: I bought a GM Genuine front cover (LS2 from a 2005 Pontiac GTO is I think what I used from RockAuto) for another engine I'm building (L96 block with 24X reluctor and Gen III electronics).
I was surprised that the cover came with bolts, seal/gasket and sensor. It was like $58, including shipping. The photo on the website only shows the aluminum cover.
Here's the part number:
I want to say the cam connection changed between the 2 generations of engines (?) I think the wires need to be repinned, but don't quote me on that. I guess you can just swap your sensor over and get a 4x cam sprocket.
I was surprised that the cover came with bolts, seal/gasket and sensor. It was like $58, including shipping. The photo on the website only shows the aluminum cover.
Here's the part number:
I want to say the cam connection changed between the 2 generations of engines (?) I think the wires need to be repinned, but don't quote me on that. I guess you can just swap your sensor over and get a 4x cam sprocket.
Attachments
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Yeah, send me that part number if you can find it, and I'll take a look.
There is an adapter harness out there for the cam position sensor plug. I just stumbled on it a couple of weeks ago - might’ve even been here. I’ll see if I can find it again.
Edit: Yeah, here it is: https://a.co/d/00DJICx
Last edited:
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Oh, great. I didn't know they made that!
@Charlie207 The part number can be seen on that photo I posted. It's GM Genuine 12600326.
Attachments
not to be a bad influence and I've put no more than 12sec into Googling this link. so take this one as just an example.
but since due to the shape of the donor, the true budget build as kinda gotten tossed and you're looking for nice bottom end power. save all the polishing and stuff, just drop in a kit?
www.amsracing.net
but since due to the shape of the donor, the true budget build as kinda gotten tossed and you're looking for nice bottom end power. save all the polishing and stuff, just drop in a kit?
Eagle Budget Forged Stroker Rotating Assembly for Chevrolet GM LS Gen III IV LS2 LQ4 LQ9 LY6 6.0L
Displacement: 403, 404, 408 ContentsForged 4140 Steel Crankshaft (4.000" stroke)Forged "FSI" I-beam Connecting Rods (6.125" length; ARP 8740 bolts)DSS Forged PistonsKing or Clevite Race BearingsNote: This kit is unbalanced by default. We offer balancing service for an additional $250. Please...
www.amsracing.net
OP
OP
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Lol
Similar threads
