Thank you for this. It may well save my bacon down the road. I had to use that converter harness for my cam swapand it’s just a little short so it strains the sensor pigtail. As Monica also asked, please do post the details of the ICT part.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Same boat for me - I will be heading to Florida to pickup a semi restored VW Karmann Ghia I purchased last month. Looking forward to the 2 day cruise down, sitting on the couch of a seat, and cruising along peacefully. Last time I made this trip, little over 1300 miles - one way so should be a nice drive.
Always liked those Karmann Ghia’s. Wish I had one of my dad’s two VW Things. You trailering it back? Post pics!
Yep, I have it stored at my brother's house at the moment. Gotta get me a 4 post lift now to stack the Mustang and the Karmann Ghia in my garage - thankfully, I got like 14ft ceilings with a 24 depth from the door.
I plan on getting a 4 post lift installed in my garage once I move.
I need to make sure my new garage/workshop has high enough ceilings for one and I need to make sure I get a lift that will go up high enough to drive a stock 1920's automobile under it.
I need to make sure my new garage/workshop has high enough ceilings for one and I need to make sure I get a lift that will go up high enough to drive a stock 1920's automobile under it.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
New front diff oil. Squeezed in some Lucas 80w-90, after draining the old gunk out, and cleaning the magnet off. Lots of sparkles, which pretty much confirms that the whining is the bearings failing, but which bearings?
There was at least an 1/8" of schmutz on the magnet.
There was at least an 1/8" of schmutz on the magnet.
this was my rear diff when I got it.. with 130 something on it. dead quiet still but it does seem like a lot.
this was my diff
I didn't take any of the front, but it was ugly too. so far thou no side effects from it. so it doesn't always mean it needs rebuilt, but if you got whining. yeah blah.
this was my diff
I didn't take any of the front, but it was ugly too. so far thou no side effects from it. so it doesn't always mean it needs rebuilt, but if you got whining. yeah blah.
Look for a high lift - most of the '20s cars seem pretty tall - similar in height to our Tahoe/Yukon/Esky trucks
My 1926 is taller than my 1929.
By 1929 cars started getting a little lower than the really old, tall passenger compartments and overall profile.
My 1929 Pierce Arrow is very heavy, coming in about 5,000lbs on a 143" wheelbase so it will be on the ground while my 1926 Rickenbacker is taller but much lighter being a smaller car.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Less than two years, only using Auto or 4Hi occasionally, even in the winter. Waaaay less than 20,000 miles.
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Your front looks like actual metal shavings, whereas mine looked like sparkling bearing flakes (ground up mica).
ahh yeah 20k you probably got something eating itself.. if it was the first time it had been done with 100k plus on it. it would be expected.
probably time for full set of bearings and hope the gear looks ok?
Charlie207
Full Access Member
Yay. I wonder if the previous owner left it in AUTO most of the time.
I wish the front hubs had the ability to stay together without the axles installed. That would give me time once the snow goes away to leave the front diff & axles out while I tear it apart, and have a shop install the parts. (or a buddy with the presses/pullers).
gooffeyguy
Tom
How does a 2wd do it?
Charlie207
Full Access Member
RWD GMT900s use different front hub assemblies. The 4WD front hubs utilize the front axle /CV stub and nut to keep the bearings together. I suppose if I could find some worn out 4wd front C/Vs, and rip them apart to use just the stub to hold the front together while the diff is getting R&R'd it would keep my front wheels from detaching at highway speeds.
RWD front hub assembly:
4WD front hub assembly:
That is exactly what I did with the old CV's I removed/replaced. I disassembled them and saved those stub shafts/nuts just for this.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I thought I've seen something about people using 4wd hubs on 2wd vehicles.
I don't think the axle stub/nut holds the bearing together. The 2wd model just has cover plates to keep out dirt and shit.
EDIT: I guess it depends on the hub manufacturer and model. Some can, some can't. Some manufacturers use the same hub for both 2wd and 4wd applications
I don't think the axle stub/nut holds the bearing together. The 2wd model just has cover plates to keep out dirt and shit.
EDIT: I guess it depends on the hub manufacturer and model. Some can, some can't. Some manufacturers use the same hub for both 2wd and 4wd applications
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
Not sure, but I'm not about to be "that guy". I suppose they manufacture two different designs for a reason.
And it would be weird that the axle nut torque spec. is like 188lb./ft., which seems like an awful lot to squeeze the outer C/V into the hub if it didn't do anything.
I've been doing some Googling, and seen both answers: does nothing and can run 4wd hubs without axles with no problems, or tempting fate by not having them installed. If I can find dead axles and chop the stubs off I might as well throw them in for that hypothetical situation.
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