Dreaded Lifter Issue

[SoLaGirl]

119K on a 2013 Tahoe LS. Lifter collapsed and got her towed to a dealer (wasn't super close to home). Dealer estimate for the fixings is $9500. Yes I know, overpriced. Have talked to local mechanics who can do it for less, one who even suggested a whole new engine. Regardless, looking at quotes between $4000 - $8500. (Haven't forked out the next $200 to get her towed over closer to home mechanics yet.)
Do I sink this into a 10 year old truck?? I have shed tears, sought out opinions, gone back and forth over what to do.
KBB is $10k - $13k or abouts, so either way I am taking a loss - whether I fix and keep or trade/ sell or leave as is and try to sell.
Just looking for more opinions on this. Majority of folks tell me to take the loss.
Body is in good shape, AC cold, transmission may be in early stages of slipping, dash is cracked, and all lock actuators are shot. Only owner.

 

[Geotrash]

119K on a 2013 Tahoe LS. Lifter collapsed and got her towed to a dealer (wasn't super close to home). Dealer estimate for the fixings is $9500. Yes I know, overpriced. Have talked to local mechanics who can do it for less, one who even suggested a whole new engine. Regardless, looking at quotes between $4000 - $8500. (Haven't forked out the next $200 to get her towed over closer to home mechanics yet.)
Do I sink this into a 10 year old truck?? I have shed tears, sought out opinions, gone back and forth over what to do.
KBB is $10k - $13k or abouts, so either way I am taking a loss - whether I fix and keep or trade/ sell or leave as is and try to sell.
Just looking for more opinions on this. Majority of folks tell me to take the loss.
Body is in good shape, AC cold, transmission may be in early stages of slipping, dash is cracked, and all lock actuators are shot. Only owner.

I think most of the people here would say it's worth it to fix it, depending on condition and past maintenance. A new Tahoe is $55K+, so there's that.

That said, depending on where you live, the cost should be closer to the $5K range for a full AFM delete or cam swap (new cam, lifters, tune, etc). Depending on how long the engine ran with a bad lifter, the damage could be limited to the lifter and cam, or there could be damage elsewhere in the engine from debris, although that's unlikely in my experience.

At a minimum, the work will consist of pulling one head to make a minimal repair if the cam wasn't damaged (unlikely). It's more likely that both heads will have to come off and the cam will have to come out. At that point, it's decision time. Stay factory, or get rid of the AFM system that likely caused the problem in the first place. You have a range of non-AFM cams to choose from from factory-like spec to more power and torque.

To give the best advice we can, it would be helpful to know some basics of its maintenance history. How frequent were the oil changes? Has the transmission fluid been flushed? Has it been garaged and generally well taken care of? All of these things factor into the fix vs sell decision.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

If you would replace it with another similar large SUV, live in a relatively salt free area, the vehicle has been reguarly serviced, and everything else is in good condition (cracked dash is an annoyance and lock actuators can be replaced), then I would strongly consider at least paying to have the AFM lifters replaced or at least diagnosed to be the problem before throwing in the towel. I think replacing the lifters and lifter trays plus gaskets should be $3K or less.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Is it paid off?

Think of it this way: For the cost of replacing the engine could you buy another Tahoe in the same condition with a brand new engine? Probably not.

When my lifters failed it cost me $2k to get my beautiful beast back on the road, if I went to buy a used car for $2000 it would have been a *************, worth it to repair your good truck any day.

 

[SoLaGirl]

Religious oil changes. No garage. No salt. Multiple estimates in the $4000 up range.
All locks have been quoted at least $250 - 400 each.
I am a single teacher with retirement in sight. Yes, I know what current market is on new, but how much do you put in and continue to do so? I suspect transmission issues in future as well.
I go back and forth and weigh my options, just hard with little guidance - which I why I asked here.
I appreciate each reply - gives me more to think about!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@SoLaGirl 119k is only half the average life of one of these vehicles so you have plenty of life left in it.

$4k for an engine now and then $4k for a transmission later that’s only $8k. Is your Tahoe worth $8k to you?

 

[iamdub]

Religious oil changes. No garage. No salt. Multiple estimates in the $4000 up range.
All locks have been quoted at least $250 - 400 each.
I am a single teacher with retirement in sight. Yes, I know what current market is on new, but how much do you put in and continue to do so? I suspect transmission issues in future as well.
I go back and forth and weigh my options, just hard with little guidance - which I why I asked here.
I appreciate each reply - gives me more to think about!

I'm guessing your screen name is referencing where you live and it's southern Los Angeles and not southern Louisiana, huh?

 

[tom3]

I'm going in a different direction here. I'd get it towed home. Spend some time looking at Toyota/Honda dealers and get some idea what you can do on a trade with it "as is." For a retired teacher you can't beat a Honda Pilot, Toyota is No. 2 in my book. Putting over $10 grand in that machine for engine and impending transmission repair is insanity. Just my opinion, probably pretty unpopular here.

 

[SoLaGirl]

I'm guessing your screen name is referencing where you live and it's southern Los Angeles and not southern Louisiana, huh?

Louisiana

 

[SoLaGirl]

I'm going in a different direction here. I'd get it towed home. Spend some time looking at Toyota/Honda dealers and get some idea what you can do on a trade with it "as is." For a retired teacher you can't beat a Honda Pilot, Toyota is No. 2 in my book. Putting over $10 grand in that machine for engine and impending transmission repair is insanity. Just my opinion, probably pretty unpopular here.

It is a lot. If you are a mechanically inclined person who can do the work yourself or know people who can do it for cheap, then maybe it makes sense, but I can't. I am here for both sides of comments and do value both, though I take some with a grain of salt.
And yes, on the agenda today is the tow home so think it over. Thanks for your input.

 

[TollKeeper]

I would tackle this completely different, but I dont know your mechanical skills, or if you have a mechanic you trust, to try and do a lifter release, and VLOM mod, PCM tune.

If it wasnt driven long with the collapsed lifter, the cam may just be fine. Mine was, and I spent 350 bucks to fix mine (did the work myself), and I had to pull the head off, to replace the lifters/push rods.

CrazedPerformance has a lifter release tool that seems to work for most, but the VLOM mod and tune has to be done as well.

The lifter release tool did not work for me, but mine failed different than most.

Finding a mechanic that is willing to try the CrazedPerformance route.. Thats the tricky part.. But thats what I would do.

If it works, you can then decide to sell it, or keep it, knowing that the lifter failure will likely never happen again, but a tranny failure my be on the horizon.

 

[Geotrash]

It is a lot. If you are a mechanically inclined person who can do the work yourself or know people who can do it for cheap, then maybe it makes sense, but I can't. I am here for both sides of comments and do value both, though I take some with a grain of salt.
And yes, on the agenda today is the tow home so think it over. Thanks for your input.

I think that's a wise next step to take. For a little more perspective, in the next few years you will likely be looking at some additional expenses as well, such as front wheel bearings, a radiator, coolant tees at the firewall, etc etc. As you say, if you are mechanically inclined or have a mechanically inclined friend, all of this is relatively easy stuff, but it won't be cheap to pay someone else to do it all when it comes due. That said, in my experience these trucks are every bit as reliable and durable as anything else on the road. I've owned a Toyota, two Hondas and a Subaru and all of them needed multiple mechanical repairs during my ownership.

If you decide to trade it in on something, perhaps someone here would offer you a fair price since it's a rust-free truck that's been well cared for. Good luck with your decision!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[MWD_CTSV]

I'm going in a different direction here. I'd get it towed home. Spend some time looking at Toyota/Honda dealers and get some idea what you can do on a trade with it "as is." For a retired teacher you can't beat a Honda Pilot, Toyota is No. 2 in my book. Putting over $10 grand in that machine for engine and impending transmission repair is insanity. Just my opinion, probably pretty unpopular here.

If you must drive some type of SUV, the Pilot or Highlander are definitely more economical choices.

For $30K, you can get approximately:
New sedan with good mpg and warranty
2019 Pilot/Highlander with 60K miles and leather
2015/16 Tahoe LS/LT with 80-100K miles.

The first two have high odds of a trouble free 10 year use. With the *newer* Tahoe, you may likely be back in the same boat in 3 years with a 10yr Tahoe, needing some serious repairs. I love the GMT900 platform, and I love working on it, which is the only way it can be economical to me, but it isn't really economical in a broader sense.

 

[Doubeleive]

Engine and trans, meh might be better to sell it as-is get what you can out of it, take that and apply it towards a used one for a affordable price and cross your fingers it last's.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Something to note at the time of this post OP simply stated they feel that the transmission "might" be starting to fail. I think we can agree to not make several thousand dollar decisions without any facts or evidence.

 

[iamdub]

Louisiana

This is surprising. There aren't many from here. Well, allow me to extend a warm 'bienvenue la TYF' from a fellow Louisiana inhabitant.

If you're anywhere near me, I'd be happy to take a look at it. Where y'at? I'm in West Baton Rouge. You can PM me if you'd prefer.


If it's just a collapsed lifter, it'll likely be an AFM one. If that's all that's wrong (no cam damage, etc.), the cheapest resolution would be to replace that lifter. I'd disable AFM as extra precaution. This is a one [long] day job using hand tools.

Bare minimum parts estimate-
Head gasket: $50
Head bolts: $30
New AFM lifter: $60
AFM disable: $60
Intake manifold gaskets: $40
Exhaust manifold gasket: $12
Exhaust manifold bolt set: $15
Coolant concentrate: $15
Distilled water: $1.50

There are a few other recommended "while you're in there" bits and pieces such as VLOM gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pressure sensor, etc. But I wanted to give you a bare minimum list for reference.

So, under $300 in parts would get the engine running right again if it's just a failed lifter and wasn't ran for very long on it. Having AFM disabled will keep the lifters locked so they operate like the standard lifters. Not having them pump up and down as AFM disengages and engages really helps. It's not bulletproof and there's still a chance of something failing since the components are still there. But, it goes a long way in preventing a failure. If anything, having it running right would greatly increase private sale or trade-in value. The trans could be something minor, or nothing. So, even the minimum might be worth investing into it. 113K miles really is low mileage for one of these. I bought mine at 146K and spanked on it for 54K miles. At 200K, I tore into it to delete AFM and hop it up a little and haven't been easy on it since. 22K miles of shenanigans and counting, all documented here.

 

[TollKeeper]

This is surprising. There aren't many from here. Well, allow me to extend a warm 'bienvenue la TYF' from a fellow Louisiana inhabitant.

If you're anywhere near me, I'd be happy to take a look at it. Where y'at? I'm in West Baton Rouge. You can PM me if you'd prefer.


If it's just a collapsed lifter, it'll likely be an AFM one. If that's all that's wrong (no cam damage, etc.), the cheapest resolution would be to replace that lifter. I'd disable AFM as extra precaution. This is a one [long] day job using hand tools.

Bare minimum parts estimate-
Head gasket: $50
Head bolts: $30
New AFM lifter: $60
AFM disable: $60
Intake manifold gaskets: $40
Exhaust manifold gasket: $12
Exhaust manifold bolt set: $15
Coolant concentrate: $15
Distilled water: $1.50

There are a few other recommended "while you're in there" bits and pieces such as VLOM gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pressure sensor, etc. But I wanted to give you a bare minimum list for reference.

So, under $300 in parts would get the engine running right again if it's just a failed lifter and wasn't ran for very long on it. Having AFM disabled will keep the lifters locked so they operate like the standard lifters. Not having them pump up and down as AFM disengages and engages really helps. It's not bulletproof and there's still a chance of something failing since the components are still there. But, it goes a long way in preventing a failure. If anything, having it running right would greatly increase private sale or trade-in value. The trans could be something minor, or nothing. So, even the minimum might be worth investing into it. 113K miles really is low mileage for one of these. I bought mine at 146K and spanked on it for 54K miles. At 200K, I tore into it to delete AFM and hop it up a little and haven't been easy on it since. 22K miles of shenanigans and counting, all documented here.

I would also replace the pushrod. If its just the collapsed lifter, it slapping around on the lifter/rocker can damage the cone, or in my case, bend the push rod. They are like 2-7 bucks depending on where you get them.

Never had to replace a intake gasket on a LS yet. They were always reuseable...

Dont forget to get your parts from Amazon Warehouse.. Thats where I got all my parts, except for the lifter itself. Saved me a bunch of money!

For example..

Amazon Warehouse prices:
Headgasket:
ACD - $30

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23295979-Passenger-Wiring-Harness/dp/B014MV89R8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484283&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-4

Mahle - $22

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-54442-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B0027A4O4O/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-10

Head Bolts - $23
Fel-Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Es72220-Head-Bolt-Set/dp/B000Q0R4V2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-6

The only other recomendation I have, only use the ACD exhaust manifold gasket. They are a thicker, 3 layer metal. - $12

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12617944-Original-Equipment-Manifold/dp/B007Q13TQI/ref=sxin_26_ci_mcx_mi_sr_m_il?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1%3Aamzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&crid=1NVBBIUUXRTC7&cv_ct_cx=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&keywords=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&pd_rd_i=B007Q13TQI&pd_rd_r=cd1d3092-0a72-46b0-8af7-cc40b7b733fc&pd_rd_w=YXIMz&pd_rd_wg=WKu8N&pf_rd_p=14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&pf_rd_r=AQVPW0M17C44ES74BZ6B&qid=1681485331&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-3-9eb59ba4-cd99-4f87-9222-b322340b23c8

 

[iamdub]

I would also replace the pushrod. If its just the collapsed lifter, it slapping around on the lifter/rocker can damage the cone, or in my case, bend the push rod. They are like 2-7 bucks depending on where you get them.

Good point.

Never had to replace a intake gasket on a LS yet. They were always reuseable...

They usually are reusable. I consider replacing them a cheap insurance thing. But, in keeping with the "bare minimum" theme, yes, they might can be left off the list.

Dont forget to get your parts from Amazon Warehouse.. Thats where I got all my parts, except for the lifter itself. Saved me a bunch of money!

For example..

Amazon Warehouse prices:
Headgasket:
ACD - $30

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-23295979-Passenger-Wiring-Harness/dp/B014MV89R8/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484283&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-4

Mahle - $22

https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-Original-54442-Engine-Cylinder/dp/B0027A4O4O/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-10

Head Bolts - $23
Fel-Pro

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-Es72220-Head-Bolt-Set/dp/B000Q0R4V2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2RLHX246W0QED&keywords=5.3+head+gasket&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1681484390&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=5.3+head+gasket%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C109&sr=8-6

The only other recomendation I have, only use the ACD exhaust manifold gasket. They are a thicker, 3 layer metal. - $12

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-12617944-Original-Equipment-Manifold/dp/B007Q13TQI/ref=sxin_26_ci_mcx_mi_sr_m_il?content-id=amzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1%3Aamzn1.sym.14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&crid=1NVBBIUUXRTC7&cv_ct_cx=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&keywords=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket&pd_rd_i=B007Q13TQI&pd_rd_r=cd1d3092-0a72-46b0-8af7-cc40b7b733fc&pd_rd_w=YXIMz&pd_rd_wg=WKu8N&pf_rd_p=14a38c0a-385f-4735-bb28-d2be35b783e1&pf_rd_r=AQVPW0M17C44ES74BZ6B&qid=1681485331&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=5.3+exhaust+manifold+gasket%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-3-9eb59ba4-cd99-4f87-9222-b322340b23c8

Always pays to shop around!

 

[Hooverdog]

I recently had the same issue on my 2017 Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine. Last year I was stuck about 1k miles from home with my transmission when while waiting at a drive thru. Paid $6k to get it replaced last March (since I got it done at a GMC dealer, it came with a three year/75k warranty). A couple of weeks ago, the truck had no power so thought it was a transmission issue again (at least I was hoping it was). Drove the truck to the local dealer who quoted $4800 if the cam was good and $6800 to replace all the lifters and cam. Also quoted $10k if I wanted a rebuilt engine. Not knowing what to do, I had the truck towed to Columbus OH where my brother in law has a shop for a second opinion. Lucore Automotive has a pretty successful YouTube channel and you can see the episode here.

Blown Motor at Lucore Automotive

Since I drive about 35k for work each year, I ended up trading it in this week as I need something more dependable. Was worried that even if I did a delete kit, I would keep needing to have things replaced. There is also a follow video to the one above as well. Will be getting a DoD delete module just as soon as they make them for the 2023! Good Luck!