What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Inner tie rod is 36mm! Use a crow's foot with 3/8th drive for most clearance. Used a 15" adjustable wrench (Tekton 23006) on one side and the crow's foot on the other if memory serves. That's wrong, it is 40mm. Thanks for the correction Dave! @Geotrash

Next time I do this work on a 900, I will purchase the J-43631 and J-45851 to separate the lower ball joint and J-42188-B to separate the upper ball joint. Spent hours last time going out to the store to buy a separator and then several more hours modifying it to work and still had to use a dremel to cut part of the ball joint away so it would work. Lot of time wasted.
I've already just had the upper ball joints and tie rods disconnected last week when I installed the 2" leveling blocks. They disconnected pretty easily with just a couple hits on the side with a hammer
 

pwtr02ss

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That's why I was looking at GM OE parts. I also noticed RockAuto has GM OE lower control arms with ball joints. I replaced the ball joints on my 2011 Denali a month before it got totaled and it wasn't too bad a job but it wasn't easy getting the old ones out. I have the press, but if I remember correctly there was a lot of hitting it with a 3lb hammer to get it out, then the press to get the new one in. Wonder how much easier/harder replacing the entire control arm would be in comparison.
I just ordered most everything you're talking about. I got the hubs from Amazon. They were slightly cheaper than RA. I am going to order the inners as well. I forgot to put them in the cart.
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I just ordered most everything you're talking about. I got the hubs from Amazon. They were slightly cheaper than RA. I am going to order the inners as well. I forgot to put them in the cart.
View attachment 378179
What's the difference between the aluminum and steel lower control arms (besides the obvious)? If you have steel can you switch to aluminum, or does it depend on what material the knuckle is made of?
 

pwtr02ss

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What's the difference between the aluminum and steel lower control arms (besides the obvious)? If you have steel can you switch to aluminum, or does it depend on what material the knuckle is made of?
I think they are the same on the nnbs. On the k2 platform, if you have aluminum uppers, they have a different taper on the ball joints.

That's the best I understand it from doing my research when I was buying the stuff to lower it.

I just opted to match what it came with
 

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I ended up putting aluminums instead of steel & all seems fine. Thought I had read somewhere the AWD trucks came with aluminum so thats what I ordered but steel was on my Denali
 
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Mine's all steel, the upper, lower arms, and knuckle.

Is MevoTech a good brand, like their TTX line, the ones that are pea green?
 

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Mine's all steel, the upper, lower arms, and knuckle.

Is MevoTech a good brand, like their TTX line, the ones that are pea green?
I thought about getting them at one point but then I figured oem lasted this long may as well use oem
there is one guy that pops in once in a while that put some on his escalade and seemed to be happy with them
 

justchecking

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I replaced my front shocks and springs yesterday and today. I love doing this kind of thing, unless I get in over my head. And I thought I was in over my head a couple of times on this job. I will post my results in the suspension forum after I recover. My hands were too dirty to take many pictures but here is a teaser - I measured the spring rate of my new springs to see if it was worth all the trouble I was going through.
IMG_0677.jpg
 

Geotrash

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Today’s project: replace the brake pedal position sensor in the 2007. Cruise control had been getting increasingly resistant to working, and I was finding myself needing to tap the brake pedal before setting it so it would engage. $10 part, 15 minutes of time on my head, and problem solved.

When I work on one of these cars, I feel rich. The level of quality is so far beyond what was available in my first GMC - a 1981 Sierra 1500, it’s remarkable. Yes, they are complex, but they are durable, well-made vehicles.

87C9DD43-76A9-4B3C-877F-AB813FACE40F.jpeg
 
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Just got done looking at my passenger mirror motor. I pulled off the back cover and checked the wiring. When the fold button is pressed the mirror does nothing. No noise, no vibration, nothing. I pulled the plug going to the motor and connected a DVM to the 2 leads and set it to DC voltage. It was in auto mode and was reading very slight mV, but when I pressed the fold button the voltage would jump up into the 12v range for a second then go back down. So guessing it's a bad motor and not gear related.

I have to research what my options are here.
 
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I see new OE motor assembly on eBay for $230. Gruven sells theirs for the same price but that includes a $30 core fee you get back when you send back your core.

I contacted Gruven and they don't have any assemblies available but said if I send them mine they'll rebuild it and send it back asap. Would still be about a week total with shipping both ways.

Really can't drive around with mirror wires hanging out my door or don't want to let it sit outside in possible foul weather with the mirror off for that time either.

Thought about just buying a cheap off brand replacement that is power folding and no other options for about $110 and pulling the motor assembly out of that, but with my luck it would be setup differently on the inside or something wouldn't match up correctly to the OE mirror, lol

May just get the replacement GM OE motor assembly. The gear didn't break, the motor died. Even if the OE plastic gear did break, it did last 10 years and 130k miles, lol
 
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RooTBeeRthe1st

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I'm cheating here a bit, but drove the Tahoe home from work and parked it for the weekend since the weather is only going to be in the low 90s.
So I could put some more miles on the mini truck.
Used it a few weeks ago to haul my broken 10 bolt that I still haven't opened up to see what I actually damaged, and the old supercharged engine out of my Cobalt over to my storage unit.
 

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Sparksalot

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I'm cheating here a bit, but drove the Tahoe home from work and parked it for the weekend since the weather is only going to be in the low 90s.
So I could put some more miles on the mini truck.
Used it a few weeks ago to haul my broken 10 bolt that I still haven't opened up to see what I actually damaged, and the old supercharged engine out of my Cobalt over to my storage unit.
Holy carp, I haven’t seen one of those in years!
 

07Burb

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I'm cheating here a bit, but drove the Tahoe home from work and parked it for the weekend since the weather is only going to be in the low 90s.
So I could put some more miles on the mini truck.
Used it a few weeks ago to haul my broken 10 bolt that I still haven't opened up to see what I actually damaged, and the old supercharged engine out of my Cobalt over to my storage unit.
What a cool truck!!
 

pwtr02ss

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Today’s project: replace the brake pedal position sensor in the 2007. Cruise control had been getting increasingly resistant to working, and I was finding myself needing to tap the brake pedal before setting it so it would engage. $10 part, 15 minutes of time on my head, and problem solved.

When I work on one of these cars, I feel rich. The level of quality is so far beyond what was available in my first GMC - a 1981 Sierra 1500, it’s remarkable. Yes, they are complex, but they are durable, well-made vehicles.

View attachment 378291
I had to replace that on the avalanche a few years ago. I cut the shit out of my hand on that metal brace when doing it
 

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