4 Piston Big Brake Upgrade from 2019-20

[corvette744]

I had the '19-'20 test caliper making its rounds on here shipped to me, and I shipped it onwards to someone else. I think it was about $25 or so.

I guess I'm curious about if this '19-'20 upgrade is a significant improvement over the NNBS '07+ upgrade? I mean, my truck doesn't have the Hydroboost, and from reading through one thread about how to add it, it looks a little intimidating to me, so I'm not sure I want to go to that extreme.

Since the '19-'20 calipers are not (very) available new, and I am reluctant to add the Hydroboost, would I really be missing out if I just did the '07+ NNBS upgrade, since it's cheap, available and still (by most accounts) a good bit more effective than my current non-Hydro NBS brakes?

I have the nnbs calipers rotors and baer brake pads on mine it exceeded my expectations on stopping.I cannot comment on the difference on this setup and the new 19-20 upgrade.I did not want to go thru the my rims dont fit and run spacers.This brake system works just fine for me and thats towing also.Highly reccommend you upgrade your lines to stainless goodridge all the way.

 

[91RS]

I would not bother with hydroboost. I don't see the benefit when a vacuum booster works just fine.

 

[Denalibro76]

Can't hardly find this stuff in OEM - RockAuto only has rear calipers, all the GM Parts stores I've found say they're discontinued or unavailable - Amazon has the pass front, but it's doubled in price, opportunism from someone who bought a bunch, is my guess.

Supply chain issues? Can't get brakes for one of the most popular models of truck out there. Craziness.

Best bet is the auto wreckers. That’s where I got all of my setup.

 

[Sam Harris]

I have the nnbs calipers rotors and baer brake pads on mine it exceeded my expectations on stopping.I cannot comment on the difference on this setup and the new 19-20 upgrade.I did not want to go thru the my rims dont fit and run spacers.This brake system works just fine for me and thats towing also.Highly reccommend you upgrade your lines to stainless goodridge all the way.

Same.. I have vacuum assist, no hydroboost. I used the Powerstop Z36 front and rear, the NNBS upgrade for fronts, and the goodridge stainless lines. Braking is significantly improved and I am quite happy with it. She stops on a dime when compared with performance prior to the upgrades. Have had to make several quick / not quite emergency stops, and have always stopped well before I expected.

 

[aflumb]

Everything is on backorder.

I have two sets of take-offs I won’t be using but they’ll probably cost a fortune to ship.

Do you still have any ava?

 

[91RS]

I have one set.

 

[aflumb]

I have one set.

I'm going to PM you

 

[findog78]

So how many ordered all the parts for this upgrade and they are still sitting on a shelf in the garage?

 

[S33k3r]

So how many ordered all the parts for this upgrade and they are still sitting on a shelf in the garage?

I cut to the procrastination chase: I still haven't ordered them...

 

[MassHoe04]

I am happy to have brakes that work... LOL

 

[S33k3r]

I am happy to have brakes that work... LOL

Working brakes are highly overrated. Said another way, non-working brakes have little to no impact on your vehicle slowing itself down...

 

[findog78]

I procrastinated long enough my rears are making noise. Figured good time to see for myself and upgrade fronts at the same time. I went with Power Stop tow rotors, pads, and stainless lines. When I went to order front calipers they are back ordered everywhere for days and out of stock for miles. Thinking someone may have bought a set and got cold feet or just changed their mind and sitting on shelf for me to purchase?

 

[Logan5]

Started my big brake upgrade today. I knew I was in for trouble but I like challenges. So I have the stock 17" Z71 rims.

In order to get the calipers to fit I had to grind down the ridge on the top of the calipers, as some others have done, and I needed a 1/4" wheel spacer.

I don't care for wheel spacers but 1/4" is minimal so I felt OK with that. I used a single 2mm stainless washer to space the caliper. The caliper is not centered on the rotors, it is offset a little back, which allowed me to get away with using a single 1/4" wheel spacer.

My brain went a little crazy at first, but after some thought I do not think the caliper being slightly off-center matters. The pistons on the calipers will extends and contact the rotors, and the pressure on both sides should be equal.

I was worried about the wheel spacer, so I took some measurements with a digital caliper and I calculate that with a 1/4" wheel spacer I lost 15% of my thread engagement.

So I am running 85% of my threads on all 6 lugs. A little worrisome but not enough to deter me. Maybe I will get longer studs, but for now I am up and running.

Road test went great, brakes feel great. Next time I hitch up the boat I will see if it was all worth it.

 

[1BADI5]

So has anyone tried the GMC cladded wheels yet? Been a couple months since I asked lol ALY5420 I believe
View attachment 362885
Edit: wrong photo and p/n

Will not work with the Declads, I know 100%

I have declads and thats why I sold my set up.

 

[iamdub]

I was worried about the wheel spacer, so I took some measurements with a digital caliper and I calculate that with a 1/4" wheel spacer I lost 15% of my thread engagement.

Isn't there a considerable amount of threaded shank protruding from the lug nut when it's tightened? Or, do you lose that plus whatever amount to equal that 15% reduction in thread engagement?

Road test went great, brakes feel great. Next time I hitch up the boat I will see if it was all worth it.



View attachment 369030View attachment 369031View attachment 369032

Have a good side shot showing the whole truck with them installed and behind the wheels?

 

[iamdub]

Will not work with the Declads, I know 100%

I have declads and thats why I sold my set up.

Is it the spokes?

 

[Logan5]

Isn't there a considerable amount of threaded shank protruding from the lug nut when it's tightened? Or, do you lose that plus whatever amount to equal that 15% reduction in thread engagement?

There is an unthreaded section at the top of the lug, as well as an unthreaded section at the top of the nut, so I had to device a method to accurately get these measurements.

Here is what I did. First I put the nut on the stud to where the first thread would catch. Then I measured the depth of the hole.

The first place I can catch a thread is at 13mm.

Then I put the tire on and measured again.

The depth at .3mm means I have 12.7mm of thread engagement.

Now I need to know what the full thread depth is, so I put a bolt in reverse to where it would catch a thread and measured again from the bottom.

14.8mm is the total thread depth of the nut.

12.7/14.8 = .858 or about ~%85.

Have a good side shot showing the whole truck with them installed and behind the wheels?

 

[Logan5]

Isn't there a considerable amount of threaded shank protruding from the lug nut when it's tightened? Or, do you lose that plus whatever amount to equal that 15% reduction in thread engagement?

Have a good side shot showing the whole truck with them installed and behind the wheels?

My rims have a lot of coverage and don't make for pretty shots, also the aesthetic of my vehicle is a work in progress.

Here is the other side:

And here is a clearance shot.

!

 

[TheAutumnWind]

There is an unthreaded section at the top of the lug, as well as an unthreaded section at the top of the nut, so I had to device a method to accurately get these measurements.

Here is what I did. First I put the nut on the stud to where the first thread would catch. Then I measured the depth of the hole.



View attachment 369104

The first place I can catch a thread is at 13mm.

Then I put the tire on and measured again.

View attachment 369105

The depth at .3mm means I have 12.7mm of thread engagement.

Now I need to know what the full thread depth is, so I put a bolt in reverse to where it would catch a thread and measured again from the bottom.


View attachment 369106

14.8mm is the total thread depth of the nut.

12.7/14.8 = .858 or about ~%85.

Huh, I never noticed that unthreaded section of the nut. I am sure its fine, but that would probably make me nervous.

 

[HansJr]

Will not work with the Declads, I know 100%

I have declads and thats why I sold my set up.

Well damn. I just read that and my happy feelings left. I just got 2015 LTZ wheels and had them powder coated. Did you have the 5 or 6 spoke? And where wouldn’t it clear?