Im old--no haters please I need BRAKE INFO and have an idea for this site

[MarvinVR]

Ive searched for hours about upgrading brakes on my 2012 tahoe. Many posts. Much info and misinfo This is a BIG subject. An important one. Have I missed this in here? I think (if we dont have it) an entire thread just on brakes. I have questions: 1. Does my tahoe even need an upgrade? (Ive only had it 3 months--seems to brake well) 2. wheel size vs different rotors. 3. Lots of confusion about police brakes. 4. lots about confusion about compatible truck brakes. About after market brakes. We need to have a 'by the year/model' general guide. How about brake lines, master cyl---on and on. Posts touching these subjects are spread throughout the site. If all I need to know about a 2013 tahoe is already here---can someone direct me to it? At 72 brakes are about the only thing left that I can work on because I can sit while doing them LOL

 

[OR VietVet]

Your question #1 answers some questions. You said it "seems to brake well". If you say it is doing ok and you are not experiencing problems, leave it alone. If you are going to tow with it, then maybe an upgrade would do you some good. If you just have a "hankering" for doing the work, go for it. At 73, I do work on the side to stay busy.

One thing though, is this. Brakes are THE most important system on any vehicle. GOTTA STOP!!!! If you are new to the system you have and want to go to, DO THE RESEARCH and know what you are doing. Good Luck!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

To my knowledge, there are no consolidated postings/lists/references on this Forum that you are inquiring about.

Your best bet is still to ask very specific questions about what you want to know more about, while also giving as much information about your truck as well, and the answers will come. Perhaps, not the most efficient, but it does work.

 

[Doubeleive]

Ive searched for hours about upgrading brakes on my 2012 tahoe. Many posts. Much info and misinfo This is a BIG subject. An important one. Have I missed this in here? I think (if we dont have it) an entire thread just on brakes. I have questions: 1. Does my tahoe even need an upgrade? (Ive only had it 3 months--seems to brake well) 2. wheel size vs different rotors. 3. Lots of confusion about police brakes. 4. lots about confusion about compatible truck brakes. About after market brakes. We need to have a 'by the year/model' general guide. How about brake lines, master cyl---on and on. Posts touching these subjects are spread throughout the site. If all I need to know about a 2013 tahoe is already here---can someone direct me to it? At 72 brakes are about the only thing left that I can work on because I can sit while doing them LOL

HERE'S THE THING
brakes-(hardware) (in the standard definition) are basically all the same from 07-20
ppv brakes are NOT inherently different, the difference is the quality/type of material used.
once you have that memorized, then the rest is just choosing which quality/material works best for you. (i.e. ceramic, semi-metallic, metallic, high temp seals, coated, frozen, etc)
yes there are a couple one-off's on a few early model calipers that is a visible difference by looking at the calipers and that is a matter of knowing what you have, versus what the standard is.
I can take the brakes on my 12 and put them on my 18 or take the brakes on the 18 and put them on my 12 or take the brakes on my 16 and put them on my 18 or any other mismatch mixup you can think up. they are identical in size and shape
so any miss-information is simply not knowing that there is basically no difference, I don't care what the parts guy at the autoparts store says or that the crossover tool online says no, it's wrong......in almost all case's
the only one that sometimes get's it right is rock auto, but if you buy the better deal from rockauto you better memorize what vehicle you chose if you ever have to warranty it because if you choose the wrong vehicle (even though it fits and works) and that vehicle is not on that particular models cross-over list then the warranty will be denied.
there is absolutely no reason for 1 caliper to show it works from 07-2020 (suburban) and not also work on any other model gm 1500 including suv's & pickups (all brands chevy. gmc, escalade) as long as you do not have the 1 off calipers.... which fit but use a different pad.
all I can add is IF you are replacing 1 caliper only, it is wise to get a identical unit or replace both sides with whatever is clever. on sale, whatever..
aside from all that there is already thread breakdowns by section on the forum

 

[Doubeleive]

To my knowledge, there are no consolidated postings/lists/references on this Forum that you are inquiring about.

Your best bet is still to ask very specific questions about what you want to know more about, while also giving as much information about your truck as well, and the answers will come. Perhaps, not the most efficient, but it does work.

brakes are under this subforum

Engine & Drivetrain

Discuss engine and drivetrain items from brakes, transmissions, towing, error codes, anything in the engine bay and so on here.

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Marky Dissod]

I've searched for hours about upgrading brakes on my 2012 tahoe ... 1. Does my tahoe even need an upgrade? (I've only had it 3 months--seems to brake well)

We're not going to make this decision for you - but here's a lil nudge:
Searched for WEEKS before upgrading/updating my '02 Tahoe's front brakes with a 2010 front brake kit. Best money ever spent; even better value than a pcm tune.
I can nudge you toward a pcm tune too, but safety first! Since yours is a GMT900 (921), you'd 'need to update to GMTT1xx front brake kit.

2. wheel size vs different rotors.

So far as I know only one 17" wheel works with GMTT1xx front rotors:

STLGN096U45 Chevrolet Colorado, Silverado, GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon Wheel/Rim Steel Black #84440192

FIND A CHEAPER SOURCE. Some 'older' GM 18" wheels work, some don't, but I THINK all the GMT-T1xx front wheels work.

3. Lots of confusion about police brakes.

When you drive, are you working or playing HARD? My family recently concluded that there are instances where -
- in part because I'm closer by - I'm a better option than an ambulance (I've taken EVO courses).
And even I'M not thinking about GMT-T1xx PPV front brakes yet, presently using GMT921-PPV front brake kit.
Before you upgrade to GMTT1UC-PPV front brakes, just figure out the civilian GMTT1xx front brake upgrade / update.
Long story short: PPV brakes brake harder (NOT smoother or quieter), dust dirtier quicker, and do not last as long, but if you ever need them, they're worth it all.

4. lots about confusion ...

You already drive a truck, suv, whatever, same difference, especially from the B-pillar forward.
Aftermarket brakes ... slotted is fine, dimpled is fine, avoid cross-drilled unless willing to pay for higher quality than you're already used to - don't risk it for less.

We need to have a 'by the year/model' general guide.

No, YOU do. We'd all appreciate it, sure, but you forgot: Forums cannot profit from FAQs.
Haven't you noticed that everything ELSE about the internet has metastasized, but there are no more FAQs than there were 10 years ago?
If accuracy was more important than engagement, the internet would need less than 1/25 its present storage capacity.
Why collect all the info in one convenient place, when people can re-ask the same questions ... frequently?
ANYWAY
Use your vehicle (model year) brake lines if you're not upgrading to stainless steel lines,
and if you can't yet guess from which vehicle your master cylinder upgrade / update is coming from, stick with yours until you're ready to update that too.

 

[Doubeleive]

We're not going to make this decision for you - but here's a lil nudge:
Searched for WEEKS before upgrading/updating my '02 Tahoe's front brakes with a 2010 front brake kit. Best money ever spent; even better value than a pcm tune.
I can nudge you toward a pcm tune too, but safety first! Since yours is a GMT900 (921), you'd 'need to update to GMTK2xx front brake kit.

So far as I know only one 17" wheel works with GMTK2xx front rotors:

STLGN096U45 Chevrolet Colorado, Silverado, GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon Wheel/Rim Steel Black #84440192

FIND A CHEAPER SOURCE. Some 'older' GM 18" wheels work, some don't, but I THINK all the GMT-T1xx front wheels work.

When you drive, are you working or playing HARD? My family recently concluded that there are instances where - in part because I'm closer by - I'm a better option
than an ambulance (I've taken EVO courses). And even I'M not thinking about GMT-T1xx PPV front brakes yet, presently using GMT921-PPV front brake kit.
Before you upgrade to GMTK2UC-PPV front brakes, just figure out the civilian GMTK2xx front brake upgrade / update.
Long story short: PPV brakes brake harder (NOT smoother or quieter), dust dirtier quicker, and do not last as long, but if you ever need them, they're worth it all.

You already drive a truck, suv, whatever, same difference, especially from the B-pillar forward.
Aftermarket brakes ... slotted is fine, dimpled is fine, avoid cross-drilled unless willing to pay for higher quality than you're already used to - don't risk it for less.

No, YOU do. We'd all appreciate it, sure, but you forgot: Forums cannot profit from FAQs.
Haven't you noticed that everything ELSE about the internet has metastasized, but there are no more FAQs than there were 10 years ago?
If accuracy was more important than engagement, the internet would need less than 1/25 its present storage capacity.
Why collect all the info in one convenient place, when people can re-ask the same questions ... frequently?
ANYWAY
Use your vehicle (model year) brake lines if you're not upgrading to stainless steel lines,
and if you can't yet guess from which vehicle your master cylinder upgrade / update is coming from, stick with yours until you're ready to update that too.

front rotors are not bigger on a k2, they are the same size 13" (12.99) 07-20

 

[ZKWBQD]

Ive searched for hours about upgrading brakes on my 2012 tahoe. Many posts. Much info and misinfo This is a BIG subject. An important one. Have I missed this in here? I think (if we dont have it) an entire thread just on brakes. I have questions: 1. Does my tahoe even need an upgrade? (Ive only had it 3 months--seems to brake well) 2. wheel size vs different rotors. 3. Lots of confusion about police brakes. 4. lots about confusion about compatible truck brakes. About after market brakes. We need to have a 'by the year/model' general guide. How about brake lines, master cyl---on and on. Posts touching these subjects are spread throughout the site. If all I need to know about a 2013 tahoe is already here---can someone direct me to it? At 72 brakes are about the only thing left that I can work on because I can sit while doing them LOL

I don't hate you. I don't hate anyone here. Why do you think anyone would hate you for asking a perfectly reasonable question. This site is nothing but rainbows and unicorns all the time.

 

[Eighthtry]

JosephGarcia suggested asking specific questions. I think you have enough info here to do that. Do it by text or email for hard tracking responses.

 

[West 1]

The standard Factory brake pads were Ceramic on these trucks. Ceramic is chosen because it is smooth stopping, lasts a long time and your rotors last a long time. ceramics are normally very quiet brakes so no squeaking.

Ceramic brakes like to work at lower temperatures so the rotors on the GM trucks are large to work with the Ceramic material and stay in the proper temperature zone..

FYI: Ford for years ran a Carbon Metallic brake pad on F250 trucks, Ford also had smaller rotors than GM. It worked for Ford because the Carbon Metallic brake pads worked well at higher temperatures.

Brake Material.

When choosing brakes
Ceramics are the quietest and last a long time with little wear on the rotors or pads. Many GM trucks go 90,000 miles before needing brakes. Ceramics are OEM on all but the HD and Police vehicles.

Semi Metalics are the next higher temperature brake material available. These work at higher temps than Ceramics and can help if you trailer a lot or work the brakes hard.

Carbon Metallics are the highest temp brake pads for your rig. These are normally factory on Police duty because they handle more heat without fading. They also leave far more black dust on your rims and wear the rotors more. The rotors become sacrificial while also offering better braking under heavy loads. I ran these on my Tahoe for several years because I towed with that Tahoe often. They handled the loads great. Problem: Driving with no loads when cold it felt like you had no brakes until they heated up a little. When hot they were really good. When these wore out I went back to OEM Ceramic Materials and was happier.

Before buying brakes think about you actual needs, don't get hooked on some advertisement and think you need that for safety.

 

[NEECAPR]

I don't hate you. I don't hate anyone here. Why do you think anyone would hate you for asking a perfectly reasonable question. This site is nothing but rainbows and unicorns all the time.

I didn't notice comment on brake lines. After redoing the brake lines a second time on my '99 Yukon thanks to sand and salt, the line sections I had formed first time from Advance Auto powdercoat stock were just dusty, not rusty. Well worth the screwing around making extra bends to use up excessive length of their standard lengths. Never found a local machine shop here that had a flare end forming machine. Harbor Freight types just ruin the end. The rust free lines are comforting though.

 

[OR VietVet]

I didn't notice comment on brake lines. After redoing the brake lines a second time on my '99 Yukon thanks to sand and salt, the line sections I had formed first time from Advance Auto powdercoat stock were just dusty, not rusty. Well worth the screwing around making extra bends to use up excessive length of their standard lengths. Never found a local machine shop here that had a flare end forming machine. Harbor Freight types just ruin the end. The rust free lines are comforting though.

I ran a brake and alignment shop back in the late 90's and early 2000's. One of the things I did to not interrupt the techs working on the vehicles was to handle making the metal brake lines when people came in. They would carry their old formed lines in and I would go out to a table we had set up that had rolls of the different size lines and all the needed tools for flaring them to match the old lines. I would even do the bends and explain that I gave them 1' extra line, on the longer sections and how to bend by hand for a custom fit. I would give them back their old lines to show the match. They either took the old line or I disposed of it.

 

[solli5pack]

I don't hate you. I don't hate anyone here. Why do you think anyone would hate you for asking a perfectly reasonable question. This site is nothing but rainbows and unicorns all the time.

He probably tried asking on Facebook first and received plenty of hate.....

 

[mikez71]

Never found a local machine shop here that had a flare end forming machine. Harbor Freight types just ruin the end. The rust free lines are comforting though.

I have used this handheld hydraulic flare tool, worked great.. Around $300 Mastercool here

Mastercool 72485 Master Hydraulic Flaring Tool Set for sale online | eBay

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I sold it because I rarely used it.. Kinda wish I kept it 'just in case'..
Looks like there's cheaper ones that look just as good.
OMT brand about $165...

OMT Hydraulic Flaring Tool 45° Double Flaring Tools Brake Repair for 3/16"-1/2" | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OMT Hydraulic Flaring Tool 45° Double Flaring Tools Brake Repair for 3/16"-1/2" at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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[GMCChevy]

There's lots of good brake info around if you search the forum. Use Rock Auto or ant online cross reference to help determine what parts are compatible between years and models. If you do start switching parts around keep a record of whilst you've done or it could turn into a headache later.

For flaring brake lines the tools like this work great and small enough to use easily repairing lines on the vehicle and don't cost much.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8_maf_1?crid=2JWNM5Y95XJM5