Broken Motor Mounts

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tgui

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I have a lift in my shop now, but I've never paid attention to accessing the mounts from underneath. I have long tube headers now its irrelevant. But, this is good for those with a 4WD to know that it isn't so bad working from underneath.

How did he raise and support the engine?

Don't cringe but some of us do a 2x4 on the back end of the oil pan and jack it up a bit.
 

Bill 1960

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I have a lift in my shop now, but I've never paid attention to accessing the mounts from underneath. I have long tube headers now its irrelevant. But, this is good for those with a 4WD to know that it isn't so bad working from underneath.

How did he raise and support the engine?
I didn’t watch him all the time -most people, including me, don’t enjoy having someone looking over their shoulder- so I don’t know how he supported the engine.

I spent most of my time in the office talking classic trucks with the owner, who has a side business buying and selling those. There was a 75 Bronco on the lift next to mine. Another customer was there looking for a K5 Blazer 6.2 diesel. :hmm:

Good times at the repair shop.
 
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Nothing fancy but I used this. My oem dipstick rusted and cracked when I tried to bend it around my kook's headers. This part is nice but a tad short so careful when checking oil level on a hot engine. I'll get an installed pic in a bit.

OK. Yeah, I have one of those in stainless on my mustang to help get around the longtubes. I have one sitting in the garage for the '33 hotrod but have just never installed it yet, lol
 

tgui

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OK. Yeah, I have one of those in stainless on my mustang to help get around the longtubes. I have one sitting in the garage for the '33 hotrod but have just never installed it yet, lol

Yeah I didn't mean to over sell what I did. It's a bit short. You can just see the black head between the block and spark plug heat shield. It's not too bad just a little warm at times. I have heat wrap on on it.
PXL_20210918_190840522.jpg
 

alpha_omega

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I put my floor-jack under the exhaust just before the “Y” bend. O2 sensors were already removed so it wasn’t an issue. An impact gun/wrench and long extension makes quick work of the drivers side from above.
Same thing on the passenger side, but take the time and remove the starter, you’ll thank yourself.
Once the bolts were loose, both sides came off with a standard and a stubby 3/8 ratchet along with a combination of extensions and either a deep or shallow socket depending on which bolt was being removed/installed.
45335A1F-2FF8-4360-A38A-D602A4CCF284.jpeg9B54F984-E9DB-48A7-83CF-387716A756C6.jpegF953E2D6-CE39-4283-AC8A-B9DD6A5AF3B2.jpegEA4C1E6A-A526-46F2-BD6C-51E351544A10.jpeg
 

Charlie207

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I suspect at least one of my engine mounts has failed. I can feel it clunking from a dead stop with anything more than mild-moderate acceleration.

Also..... I'm getting a thud when 1st starting out for the day during the 2-3 shift. Even with almost no throttle the shift is harsh. I don't think the two are related, other than maybe the hard shift causing the mount to fail faster than normal.

What is the the part # for the H3 mounts, and why is the H3 mount better? (curious)
 

Rocket Man

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I suspect at least one of my engine mounts has failed. I can feel it clunking from a dead stop with anything more than mild-moderate acceleration.

Also..... I'm getting a thud when 1st starting out for the day during the 2-3 shift. Even with almost no throttle the shift is harsh. I don't think the two are related, other than maybe the hard shift causing the mount to fail faster than normal.

What is the the part # for the H3 mounts, and why is the H3 mount better? (curious)
It’s better because it’s solid rubber like the previous generations instead of the fluid filled ones you’re came with which fail prematurely. The one part # referenced by @donjetman above works on both sides.
 

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