What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Just Fishing

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I had a Corporate amex card at my last job role, pretty much had it to pay for some traveling they had me do.
I ended up on an extended trip in Europe, and i ended up going past the "we want our money" date.
Customer service was just awesome.


For a first card,
my experience with a credit union was also awesome.
Just understand that they should never go past the 50% of the overall limit.
If you do, get it down before the billing cycle asap.

How i started out was to just use the card to buy something that i had the money for, and then pay it on it every month for 3 months, then pay it off.

It also helps that i have an addiction to surplus pews.
I Gotta keep that credit active! :cheers:
 
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Now back to what we did to our NNBS GMT900 today.....

I replaced the oil cooler line block gasket. Hopefully that fixes the leak.

I dropped the front driveshaft down onto the sway bar to give me more room by removing the 4 u-joint strap bolts.
 

alpha_omega

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man this is good to know. I was talking about trying to figure out away to do this and you just made my day.

I use my AMEX as basically my debit card and pay my bills with it.

Hopefully this will help them and they will be better off than I was
I’m glad I brought this up. I figured most of you guys would either wonder “wtf is Adam babbling about now” or “who does this guy think he is”. My uncle is 76 years old and has NO credit. Paid cash for everything and he now is paying twice the insurance premium for his 04’ than I do for my Denali. Hopefully the credit trick helps out all of you and your kids.
 

alpha_omega

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A few years back I got wise to the benefits of rewards cards. Since then I’m getting between 2-5% cash back on every dollar spent. Utilities, taxes, insurance, gas, anyone that accepts plastic. I’ve been walking around for months with the same cash in my wallet. I never use it.

Cards can be a heavy burden for those without financial discipline or in a tight financial spot. But they’re a nice perk as long as you never carry a balance.
You’re better off carrying a balance to show you’re responsible enough to have “revolving credit” as opposed to having either a maxed out card or a card that you could potentially use the max amount on.
 

alpha_omega

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The lower door seals, to me at a PITA. Would prefer to have em off if they weren’t a part of keeping water from getting inside the truck. They catch all the dirt up under them, leading me to think thats where the rust will start. I pull mine off every now and then to wash the doors properly. The ones on the back doors practically seal up the weep holes on the doors as well. I’ve had my rear doors partially fill up with water, not only from the seals but as we all also know crap inside the doors.
*Tip to help them, the quarter panels and your rocker panels from rusting out*

-Take a bottle and a small piece of clear hose (small enough to fit inside the grommet holes used for the seals).
-Fill the bottle full of transmission fluid (you could also use the Tranny fluid bottle and just tap into or screw on a new cap) install the hose.
-Fill the bottom of your doors with a small amount of fluid (don’t go crazy). Allow any excess to drain and wipe up any on the outside of the vehicle.
-Reinstall the
 

alpha_omega

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Glad I was able to share. Knowledge is power

See this credit game stuff needs to be taught in school. So all we can do now is set them up and educate them.
Ha! They hardly even teach mathematics in school…let alone simple physics. You’re absolutely right…it only going to work if parents who take the time and care enough to be proactive about setting them up for success. Otherwise they will forever be stuck playing catch-up after the fact.
I had a Corporate amex card at my last job role, pretty much had it to pay for some traveling they had me do.
I ended up on an extended trip in Europe, and i ended up going past the "we want our money" date.
Customer service was just awesome.


For a first card,
my experience with a credit union was also awesome.
Just understand that they should never go past the 50% of the overall limit.
If you do, get it down before the billing cycle asap.

How i started out was to just use the card to buy something that i had the money for, and then pay it on it every month for 3 months, then pay it off.

It also helps that i have an addiction to surplus pews.
I Gotta keep that credit active! :cheers:
Bingo! Key words…”credit union”. They may be owned by the “big banks”, but the operate much differently. Just be sure to ask them which credit company they report to. Same goes for any credit card you want to get, since it’s good to have established credit with all three (Equifax, Trans Union and Experian)
 
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*Tip to help them, the quarter panels and your rocker panels from rusting out*

-Take a bottle and a small piece of clear hose (small enough to fit inside the grommet holes used for the seals).
-Fill the bottle full of transmission fluid (you could also use the Tranny fluid bottle and just tap into or screw on a new cap) install the hose.
-Fill the bottom of your doors with a small amount of fluid (don’t go crazy). Allow any excess to drain and wipe up any on the outside of the vehicle.
-Reinstall the
Or just use a spray can of Fluid Film and its little red tube if you have it.
 

89Suburban

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*Tip to help them, the quarter panels and your rocker panels from rusting out*

-Take a bottle and a small piece of clear hose (small enough to fit inside the grommet holes used for the seals).
-Fill the bottle full of transmission fluid (you could also use the Tranny fluid bottle and just tap into or screw on a new cap) install the hose.
-Fill the bottom of your doors with a small amount of fluid (don’t go crazy). Allow any excess to drain and wipe up any on the outside of the vehicle.
-Reinstall the
Isn't transmission fluid deadly for paint finishes?
 

89Suburban

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Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.

Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
 

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alpha_omega

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Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.

Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
Yummy! I’m hoping you did a full flush/bleed instead of pushing in the pistons and pulling them off. Well, I suppose even if you push the piston but still do a good flush/bleed you shouldn’t contaminate the system.
It looks like it’s been a min since they were changed and/or someone was ******* the pedal. All the heating up and then cooling down of the brake fluid causes condensation in the lines…and since brake fluid is hygroscopic, and it absorbs moisture even when the vehicle isn’t driven all that water then mixes like muddy water and chocolate milk. Kinda looks similar to hydraulic fluid that has gotten water in the lines.

Best practice is to change ALL of your brake fluid annually if you tow a lot or do a lot of city driving.

Nice work though. Looking good and probably feeling MUCH better now.
 

alpha_omega

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Ok. Since I only seem to get on here every once in a while, but often seem to blow up the damn forum with my replies to everyone’s posts/comments all at once before…

“radio silence”

….So one more before I get my ass back under the hood.

Shocks. Mine look. Um…the front shocks on my Denali look…unhappy. Not hole in them unhappy, but rusted enough from multiple Michigan winters. Do I stick with OEM or are there any better ones out there. I do have the terribly expensive ones due to the Denali package, so I’m not even sure if I can tackle that job myself. I like having my teeth (Still in where they belong. All of them), so there’s no need to fight with that kind of tension and pressure. But nonetheless, they still need to be ordered.

Thoughts?
 
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Ok. Since I only seem to get on here every once in a while, but often seem to blow up the damn forum with my replies to everyone’s posts/comments all at once before…

“radio silence”

….So one more before I get my ass back under the hood.

Shocks. Mine look. Um…the front shocks on my Denali look…unhappy. Not hole in them unhappy, but rusted enough from multiple Michigan winters. Do I stick with OEM or are there any better ones out there. I do have the terribly expensive ones due to the Denali package, so I’m not even sure if I can tackle that job myself. I like having my teeth (Still in where they belong. All of them), so there’s no need to fight with that kind of tension and pressure. But nonetheless, they still need to be ordered.

Thoughts?
I just purchased GM replacement struts and all the related dust shields and isolators. They don't come pre-assembled and ready to drop in though. You have to have the springs compressed to take them apart.

Arnott sells a pre-assembled front strut ready to drop in, but it's passive (not electronic/magnetic) and comes with a plug that plugs into the wiring connector to keep the system happy and no dash messages.
 

Rocket Man

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Caliper #2 replaced and flushed. Just got the front two calipers to go.

Look at this nasty **** coming out when I dumped the old caliper fluid out.
Looks like 15 year old fluid. Hope you did a full flush? I use a Motive pressure bleeder, it makes a 1-man operation out of it and its super easy. No compressor and no suction on the bleeders, just pressure from the MC. And it refills the MC as you go.
 

89Suburban

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Yummy! I’m hoping you did a full flush/bleed instead of pushing in the pistons and pulling them off. Well, I suppose even if you push the piston but still do a good flush/bleed you shouldn’t contaminate the system.
It looks like it’s been a min since they were changed and/or someone was ******* the pedal. All the heating up and then cooling down of the brake fluid causes condensation in the lines…and since brake fluid is hygroscopic, and it absorbs moisture even when the vehicle isn’t driven all that water then mixes like muddy water and chocolate milk. Kinda looks similar to hydraulic fluid that has gotten water in the lines.

Best practice is to change ALL of your brake fluid annually if you tow a lot or do a lot of city driving.

Nice work though. Looking good and probably feeling MUCH better now.
I am doing one caliper a weekend starting on the R/R and moving towards the F/L. I don't fully push the piston into the caliper, only enough to pry off the bracket. So I did a "full flush" to the R/R last weekend, L/R this weekend, and to TBC to the L/F.

This was an all highway sales vehicle for 290K until I got it. I am sure these calipers are very high mileage and the fluid as well. All the bleeders were seized. This has been on my TDL for a long time. I am glad to get some new calipers/brackets/fluid worked into this thing finally. I can even tell a difference from last weekend in the pedal hardness bleeding this 2nd caliper. And I DO plan to make bleeding the brakes a once a year tinkering project now that I have working bleeder screws and I can keep on top of it.
 

89Suburban

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@Rocket Man Yes of course I did a full bleed, that's why I am going through this in the first place. All my bleeders were rusted and frozen to dog ****. That Motive pressure bleeder is on my Amazon wish list, thank to you!! :) , but I do not have it yet. So I had do to it old school for now but all is going well so far. I am not bottoming out the M/C either when I am bleeding. I hear horror stories about that ruining seals in the M/C.


EDIT:


To be quite honest, a lot of "gravity bleeding" worked well so far. When I did the R/R I used my vacuum pump tp pull a lot through the main line, toping of the M/C reservoir a few times. Id' say about a quart? Then I used an assistant to foot bleed the caliper afterewards.

On this on I removed the brake line, dumped the caliper out, let the brake line run into the pan for a bit. Gave it a half dozen pumps to help flush it. Let it keep running into the pan afterwards. Mounted the new caliper and the hose. Opened the bleeder. Let gravity fill it til it started running it. Let it run for a bit. Closed it. Did the foot bleed again. Turned out very good so far.

now onto the fronts the next few weeks!! :)
 
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Bill 1960

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You’re better off carrying a balance to show you’re responsible enough to have “revolving credit” as opposed to having either a maxed out card or a card that you could potentially use the max amount on.
Better off in what sense?

That you’ll pay double digit interest rather than just take your cash back and leave the party?

Higher credit score? Mine’s got no headroom and I never carry over a balance.
 

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