17 Yukon 4” ReadyLIFT SST Lift

[nick14226]

Looks outstanding!! This is the same kit the local shop recommended to me.. I had a few questions as this is my first lift and I am going in a little hesitant. My pops had us jumping into his trucks all with 6 inch lifts since we were in diapers so I know I'm down with it. Just heard so many Cons with lifts that it's had me second guessing...of course pops says, it's good to go and is all for it..

1. Are those 33s in the picture with the lift. As I also was thinking that was the best size to go with 4 inches. Cutting involved?

2. As this is a main reason I'm concerned, but do warning lights pop up...as with the one you initially stated you had to clear.

3. Does everything else function properly ie. Cruise control without issue.

I'll probably end up doing it regardless, but just a little insight on these topics would be helpful! Or I could just ask Pops again and he'll talk me into it. Maybe even going to up to 6inches Lol.

Thanks in advance!
Doing this on a 2016 Tahoe LS 2WD

Thanks, yes, I'm really enjoying the new look.

Good info from Stormin.

1. The tires are 285 55 20. Not quite a 33", they're closer to 32". You could get away with 33's, I went a little more extreme on the offset with 20x10 -24 so they'd stick out a bit. If you go with a 9" wide wheel with Readylifts recommended offset 33's should be easily achievable. I did need to do some wheel well and factory running board trimming to clear my setup (but again mostly due to wheel offset).

2. No other warning lights since. I believe what I had happened either because they left the battery connected during the install (with tie rods can move a lot when UCA isn't holding the knuckle) or when they moved the truck to the alignment rack before it was aligned. From what I understand the electric steering rack doesn't like being way out of alignment at any time. Once DTC's were cleared it didn't come back. I've heard of it happening with leveling kit installs too, when I did mine I disconnected the battery.

3. Yes, all features are functional. Being a base model SLE I don't have adaptive cruise, lane assist, or fancy shocks. Could need some tweaks to get all of that working if you had it, but being an LS Tahoe, we're in the same boat.

As for ride, I think it's very close to factory. When I'm driving over bumps and dips I don't feel the UCA's hitting the droop stop bumpers, off road you'd likely be harsher as you have less travel. My stiffer ride comes from pot holes and the LT D rated tires (ride harder and require a bit more air pressure than the original P tires).

I've had a variety of lifts on previous vehicles. Body lifts, leveling kits, my last truck had a Pro Comp Stage 1 6" suspension lift. There are pros and cons to everything. On my 6" lift my tie rods would hit the strut coils (steering knuckle design issue, Pro Comp sent me revised knuckles), needed to balance and re-clock my front driveshaft, and chased a rear end vibration the whole time I had the truck. Yes, geometry was better though for control arms and CV's. You're 2WD as well, so CV's aren't a concern.

I don't think you'd regret getting the ReadyLIFT, and if you make the additional tweaks I did should be good to go even at full lock / full droop. I can't speak for ball joint and CV boot life yet, but others have had good experience, so fingers crossed there.

 

[Joker619]

Thanks, yes, I'm really enjoying the new look.

Good info from Stormin.

1. The tires are 285 55 20. Not quite a 33", they're closer to 32". You could get away with 33's, I went a little more extreme on the offset with 20x10 -24 so they'd stick out a bit. If you go with a 9" wide wheel with Readylifts recommended offset 33's should be easily achievable. I did need to do some wheel well and factory running board trimming to clear my setup (but again mostly due to wheel offset).

2. No other warning lights since. I believe what I had happened either because they left the battery connected during the install (with tie rods can move a lot when UCA isn't holding the knuckle) or when they moved the truck to the alignment rack before it was aligned. From what I understand the electric steering rack doesn't like being way out of alignment at any time. Once DTC's were cleared it didn't come back. I've heard of it happening with leveling kit installs too, when I did mine I disconnected the battery.

3. Yes, all features are functional. Being a base model SLE I don't have adaptive cruise, lane assist, or fancy shocks. Could need some tweaks to get all of that working if you had it, but being an LS Tahoe, we're in the same boat.

As for ride, I think it's very close to factory. When I'm driving over bumps and dips I don't feel the UCA's hitting the droop stop bumpers, off road you'd likely be harsher as you have less travel. My stiffer ride comes from pot holes and the LT D rated tires (ride harder and require a bit more air pressure than the original P tires).

I've had a variety of lifts on previous vehicles. Body lifts, leveling kits, my last truck had a Pro Comp Stage 1 6" suspension lift. There are pros and cons to everything. On my 6" lift my tie rods would hit the strut coils (steering knuckle design issue, Pro Comp sent me revised knuckles), needed to balance and re-clock my front driveshaft, and chased a rear end vibration the whole time I had the truck. Yes, geometry was better though for control arms and CV's. You're 2WD as well, so CV's aren't a concern.

I don't think you'd regret getting the ReadyLIFT, and if you make the additional tweaks I did should be good to go even at full lock / full droop. I can't speak for ball joint and CV boot life yet, but others have had good experience, so fingers crossed there.

Thanks for the reply.. yeah being a newb at this, I'm just taking all the possible worst case scenarios to much. On a side note.. With your experience, if I ditched the 4 inch kit, and went for more of a level, would you get the readylift sst kit 2.5/1.5 or would you opt for a Bilstein route...

 

[STORMIN08]

From what i have heard, i do not think the bilstein gets you that lfit amount. the FOX or ICONS do, but much more costly.

 

[nick14226]

Thanks for the reply.. yeah being a newb at this, I'm just taking all the possible worst case scenarios to much. On a side note.. With your experience, if I ditched the 4 inch kit, and went for more of a level, would you get the readylift sst kit 2.5/1.5 or would you opt for a Bilstein route...

Can't speak for the Bilsteins, prior to the 4" I was running the suspensionmaxx 2.5/1. Overall I was happy with it but if I was keeping it figured I should do UCA's at some point (I had factory stamped).

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

Without looking up specifics...there is a 4" that only drops the front diff for shaft angles.
For me, that is too much lift with put correcting A-arm angles.

Secondly, some replacement upper arms recommend or require a different off set wheel (seey pic again), as the tubes are larger diameter or on slightly different approach angles.

When exceeding *** amount
( tahoe/suburban being 2-2.5" max), I would prefer to see a drop crossmember Lowering the lower arms, and providing a longer knuckle to keep stock a arm angles and ball joint angles.
The new knuckle being longer (outside wheel barrel) and thick generally requires a different offset wheel.

That off set could be
1. New wheels
2. Spacers (I do not recommend)

@STORMIN08 - I'm currently running OE wheels with hub centric wheel spacers. 0.5" front and 1.5" rear. No trimming of hub bolts was necessary.
However, I was hoping you could expand on your #2 Spacers from above posting and some of the specifics as to why you DO NOT recommend them.
Would really appreciate your thoughts.

 

[STORMIN08]

personally, i am not a fan..simply due to the added stresses it implies on the wheel studs. as many experienced both good and bad...ball joints and studs due break and typically that would be a scenario i would not want to have. i have had 1 ball joint failure in my life

that time was shortly after a very high speed run, luckily in town and just after straightening from a turn. but yet, still very dangerous and uncontrollable.

even wheels with heavy negative offset induce much unneeded stress. i cringe when seing all these heavy liftde trucks with the wheel sticking way out the side...all to many have taken unwanted rides down the interstate when a ball joint or wheel stud fails.

simple laws of physics, the torque arm situation that is against those much smaller parts.

 

[nick14226]

@STORMIN08 - I'm currently running OE wheels with hub centric wheel spacers. 0.5" front and 1.5" rear. No trimming of hub bolts was necessary.
However, I was hoping you could expand on your #2 Spacers from above posting and some of the specifics as to why you DO NOT recommend them.
Would really appreciate your thoughts.

@Oh Kee Pah, I was reluctant at first about the 1.5" spacers I was running previously but read enough good things about Bora that I got more comfortable. Biggest pain for me was the double check of the spacer nuts. Torque them down, then the lug nuts, drive for a while, pull the wheels off to check the torque on the spacer nuts again, then torque the lug nuts and then check the lug nuts again after driving. Just a more tedious process. On my double checks the spacer nuts never loosened at all though. For the narrow spacers you're running up front assume you have enough stud and thread for the lug nuts to be comfortable (if not can get longer studs)? As for the rear, pretty sure just about everyone with a suspension lift that pushes out the front tires, and care about even track width, runs spacers in the back. Good brand like Bora, and hub centric, seems to have a solid track record of reliability.

 

[STORMIN08]

agreed, if one has to or needs to HUB CENTRIC is a must,
https://www.wheeladapter.com/
have always said to be one of best available

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

Agreed, huge impact on ride if there’s unwanted contact there during normal driving.

Pic of clearance between new UCA and droop stop bumper on drivers side, passenger is a bit less eyeing it up.

With the 2.5 suspensionmaxx they have you trim down that rubber bumper, I picked up new ones for the ReadyLIFT at full thickness. I thought with the level it looked a bit tight with stock UCA’s, looks like more clearance with the ReadyLIFT UCA’s. I’m curious what it looks like stock, I didn’t start paying attention until after I started making changes

@nick14226 - do you happen to have the GM part# for the UCA bumper? I think I've found it on a website, but hoping to confirm.

These front UCA bumps are not there on my Tahoe; so either not installed at purchase date (bought as CPO) or shop removed them (w/out me knowing) when my Freedom Off-Road UCAs were installed a couple years back. Since I'm back to "stock" angles again with my lift, in theory, figured it would be worthwhile to go ahead and throw these on. Fairly inexpensive...


Thank you! @nick14226's rig is looking darn good BTW, as usual

 

[nick14226]

@nick14226 - do you happen to have the GM part# for the UCA bumper? I think I've found it on a website, but hoping to confirm.

These front UCA bumps are not there on my Tahoe; so either not installed at purchase date (bought as CPO) or shop removed them (w/out me knowing) when my Freedom Off-Road UCAs were installed a couple years back. Since I'm back to "stock" angles again with my lift, in theory, figured it would be worthwhile to go ahead and throw these on. Fairly inexpensive...


Thank you! @nick14226's rig is looking darn good BTW, as usual

Thanks @Oh Kee Pah, as does your Tahoe!

Here's the info on the UCA stops.

Suspension : Bump Stop
GM GENUINE 84128120
Front Upper

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

Thank you! @nick14226 -> Leaving Chevy dealership now with 2 new UCA bump stops for $8.43.

 

[STORMIN08]

depending in design, i tend to drill several holes in mine to soften them up. also do this when lowering to keep the cush, but not to remove entirely

 

[ChanceTx]

Nick14226... I've got some questions about your truck. I sent a message the other day but not sure if you received it. Can you email me at [email protected]? Thanks!

 

[nick14226]

Nick14226... I've got some questions about your truck. I sent a message the other day but not sure if you received it. Can you email me at [email protected]? Thanks!

Ask away on here @ChanceTx, your questions and my answers could benefit others looking

 

[ChanceTx]

Thanks. I believe I have also "spoken" with Oh Kee Pah and he was helpful as well. Anyway, we just got my wife a 2017 Yukon Denali 4WD. Hers has the Magneride suspension and the rear air bags. Every 4x4 shop around is telling me they can't find a kit that will work. She really likes how your Yukon sits and we'd like to replicate that. So we are wanting the 4" in front and 3" in rear lift. Can't they just remove/delete the Magneride stuff? As well as the air bags? And your wheels have a -24 offset. I saw on this thread where another guy had the same -24, but his wheels looked like they stuck out really far. We do not want them to stick out that far. Any chance you could measure that for me? Yours just don't look like they stick out much at all, which we like.

Also, do you happen to know if a bumper off an SLE like yours will fit on a Denali? We both like the look of yours better.

 

[nick14226]

Thanks. I believe I have also "spoken" with Oh Kee Pah and he was helpful as well. Anyway, we just got my wife a 2017 Yukon Denali 4WD. Hers has the Magneride suspension and the rear air bags. Every 4x4 shop around is telling me they can't find a kit that will work. She really likes how your Yukon sits and we'd like to replicate that. So we are wanting the 4" in front and 3" in rear lift. Can't they just remove/delete the Magneride stuff? As well as the air bags? And your wheels have a -24 offset. I saw on this thread where another guy had the same -24, but his wheels looked like they stuck out really far. We do not want them to stick out that far. Any chance you could measure that for me? Yours just don't look like they stick out much at all, which we like.

Also, do you happen to know if a bumper off an SLE like yours will fit on a Denali? We both like the look of yours better.

So having an sle im no expert on magneride and air bags, but yes, many have replaced the Magneride with regular shocks, you just need to trick the system into thinking they’re still there (and there are companies that make components to do that). The air bags arms can be extended for auto level, but not sure you can bolt up the rear coil spring spacers for the air bags. I think there are other threads with info but will take you some more searching. Definitely seen guys with Denali’s with lifts, unfortunately you’ll likely need to learn how by searching here to teach the local off-road shops yourself…

As for the offset, there are three things that effect tire stick out. The width of the wheels, the offset of the wheels, and the width of the tires. New steering knuckles will effect front tire stick out too, but not the case with these style 4” lifts, just the BDS has the new knuckles (maybe that’s what you saw). Mine were (I traded the Yukon in on a ‘22 z71 yesterday ) 20” diameter x 10” wide, -24mm offset, with 285 mm wide tires.

I trimmed the front valance with a dremel, and added the front bumper piece with opening and added the tow hooks. You could do the same, however, with adaptive cruise (which I didn’t have and you might) there are complication adding tow hooks on both sides.

 

[ChanceTx]

THANKS for the help! I've been saving some links to a few threads on here to send to a local shop.

And I think you are right about there may be a complication with the front bumper. Hers DOES have the adaptive cruise. I'll probably just leave the bumper alone...at least for now. We would like to at least put a basic grill guard on it though, so I'll have to research that a little on here as well.

This site is awesome!

 

[ChanceTx]

Well fellas, as much as I have appreciated everyone's help in getting my wife's Yukon looking better, we never did anything with it. She just couldn't decide on what direction to go. That being said, she has decided she likes driving her old 2013 Yukon better and wants to keep it. So, we will be selling the 2017. I guess there is a Classified section on here? I haven't even looked yet!

 

[Oh Kee Pah]

@ChanceTx - thanks for the update. Keep the boss happy!