17 Yukon 4” ReadyLIFT SST Lift

[nick14226]

Picked up the Yukon last night after the 4” front , 3” rear ReadyLIFT SST lift install. Was going to wait to post until I could get better pics, but the sun isn’t supposed to come out for the next week plus around here, so good as it’s going to get for now, haha.

Overall I think it turned out good. Geometry of upper control arms look good, front diff is dropped. I think it looks noticeably taller than the 2.5/1 level I had on. Rides same, or I’d even say a bit better, than it did with the level.

Front fender openings measure out to 40” from ground, rear 40-3/4”. This is with 285 55 20 BFG KO2’s (wheels are 20x10 -24 offset by the way).

Upon after hours pick up I had a “steering assist is reduced” message on the gauge cluster display. Used my programmer to clear DTC’s and it cleared. Spent an hour crawling all over it when I got it home. One UCA ball joint won’t take grease, I’ll try replacing the zerk. New front diff skid plate actually tucked up under the plastic gravel guard, so no major cutting there, looks clean. On the rear I noticed the upper rubber coil spring isolators weren’t reused, the bump stop extensions weren’t installed, the diff to brake line spacer wasn’t installed, and the shock extension brackets were mounted on the bottom of the shocks instead of top. Shop had various reasons why they did what they did, don’t think they’re used to a customer who read the instructions front to back more than once, but in my career attention to technical details is important so I can’t help it. Will get that all worked out.

Now I have to resist going up to 305 55 20’s since my 285’s are new...

Onto the pics!

 

[nick14226]

 

[nick14226]

 

[Nokturnal]

Looking good! Thanks for the update. She looks like my last Denali

 

[STORMIN08]

the look is spot on...

i would consider a taller vs wider tire when needed. personally, our 285 on a 22" wheel pulls more ruts that any vehicle i have ever owned, even the ones on 40" tires.

any chance of getting a front suspension pick with arms at full droop ? feel free to say no or take your time, it is just a wish.

 

[Bill 1960]

Thanks for sharing all the detailed photos, it’s nice to see how all the components fit and the angles.

It’s unfortunate how hard it is to find a shop that does reliable work. That’s why I do my own, and I’m fortunate to have the time and tools. When you watch the install vids, even the ones presented by manufacturers, you’ll never see a torque wrench. Just guys banging away with impact guns tightening suspension parts.

 

[nick14226]

Looking good! Thanks for the update. She looks like my last Denali
View attachment 267808

Thanks! Nice pic of the Denali, looks beefy, looking forward to seeing the XL!

 

[nick14226]

the look is spot on...

i would consider a taller vs wider tire when needed. personally, our 285 on a 22" wheel pulls more ruts that any vehicle i have ever owned, even the ones on 40" tires.

any chance of getting a front suspension pick with arms at full droop ? feel free to say no or take your time, it is just a wish.

Good point on ruts, I've noticed that. And the narrower tire is better in the winter, before I knew better I ran 325's on the snow/slush/ice, slip sliding my way through the season.
No problem on the droop pic, when I'm messing around with the zerk this weekend I'll throw the floor jack under the frame.

 

[nick14226]

Thanks for sharing all the detailed photos, it’s nice to see how all the components fit and the angles.

It’s unfortunate how hard it is to find a shop that does reliable work. That’s why I do my own, and I’m fortunate to have the time and tools. When you watch the install vids, even the ones presented by manufacturers, you’ll never see a torque wrench. Just guys banging away with impact guns tightening suspension parts.

You're welcome, glad it's helpful. I can sneak out to the garage for the 2 hour jobs, but getting into 7 hours plus an alignment, I begrudgingly outsourced the labor. I own a 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench and use both whenever I have a spec and they'll fit. I could tell you I know what 25 ft/lbs feels like with a ratchet, but I'll bet I'd be 10 ft/lbs off when you check it LOL

 

[nick14226]

One more, still dark but at least it’s clean

 

[nick14226]

@STORMIN08
First pic sitting neutral, 2nd pic full droop

 

[STORMIN08]

well, not as bad of an angle as i was expecting...that said, it appears to not have much droop

i am guessing ti is very close to the upper arm bump stop. typically, that make s for a harsh ride as most hits are initiated by a droop of the suspension

 

[nick14226]

well, not as bad of an angle as i was expecting...that said, it appears to not have much droop

i am guessing ti is very close to the upper arm bump stop. typically, that make s for a harsh ride as most hits are initiated by a droop of the suspension

Agreed, huge impact on ride if there’s unwanted contact there during normal driving.

Pic of clearance between new UCA and droop stop bumper on drivers side, passenger is a bit less eyeing it up.

With the 2.5 suspensionmaxx they have you trim down that rubber bumper, I picked up new ones for the ReadyLIFT at full thickness. I thought with the level it looked a bit tight with stock UCA’s, looks like more clearance with the ReadyLIFT UCA’s. I’m curious what it looks like stock, I didn’t start paying attention until after I started making changes

 

[AZ6148]

Agreed, huge impact on ride if there’s unwanted contact there during normal driving.

Pic of clearance between new UCA and droop stop bumper on drivers side, passenger is a bit less eyeing it up.

With the 2.5 suspensionmaxx they have you trim down that rubber bumper, I picked up new ones for the ReadyLIFT at full thickness. I thought with the level it looked a bit tight with stock UCA’s, looks like more clearance with the ReadyLIFT UCA’s. I’m curious what it looks like stock, I didn’t start paying attention until after I started making changes View attachment 267958

Agreed, huge impact on ride if there’s unwanted contact there during normal driving.

Pic of clearance between new UCA and droop stop bumper on drivers side, passenger is a bit less eyeing it up.

With the 2.5 suspensionmaxx they have you trim down that rubber bumper, I picked up new ones for the ReadyLIFT at full thickness. I thought with the level it looked a bit tight with stock UCA’s, looks like more clearance with the ReadyLIFT UCA’s. I’m curious what it looks like stock, I didn’t start paying attention until after I started making changes View attachment 267958

Any reason why this wouldn’t fit a 2wd? Trying to find a lift kit that is 4” or bigger for a 2wd that’s not 2k lol this one seems to not change the knuckle so I’d assume it shouldn’t matter.

 

[STORMIN08]

most of these will fit a 2wd ( verify first) as the parts are the same, minus the axle shaft.

your hubs do differ as there is no opening for the shaft, but the suspension parts are typically the same.

 

[nick14226]

Any reason why this wouldn’t fit a 2wd? Trying to find a lift kit that is 4” or bigger for a 2wd that’s not 2k lol this one seems to not change the knuckle so I’d assume it shouldn’t matter.

I believe it would, you just wouldn’t use the diff drop spacers.

 

[nick14226]

Readylift website shows it fits 2wd as well

 

[AZ6148]

Readylift website shows it fits 2wd as well

Lol my bad I was thinking the Tuff country country 4” lift. It says nothing about a 2wd but is the same design. Was also thinking the rough country 6” lift but they don’t make it for a 2wd. Some company’s make a bracket lift that fit both 2wd and 4wd. I wonder what makes them different. Thought about just purchasing and trying to put that on and fab what I need. I called RC and the guy on the phone just read the description to me off the web site ‍

 

[nick14226]

The biggest variable seems to be what factory controls arms you have originally and what kit will fit them. Think it has mostly to do with the size of the hole in the knuckle for the upper ball joint being different from one UCA to the next.

I can't comment much on comparisons between 6" kits because I didn't want to got that tall this time around. Can tell you comparing the 4" though (excluding the BDS) that Readylift seems to get the most front height, right/wrong/indifferent. Folks who have installed the Fabtech seem to usually add a lower strut spacer to get more height to match up to the 3" rear lift. The Tuff Country would be similar to the Fabtech because looking at the instructions you need to buzz the top of the strut studs off for their spacer (same with Fabtech) and you don't need to do that with Readylift, so the Readylift front spacer is indeed taller. The tuff country has a 2" rear lift. So Readylift Front 4 / Rear 3, Fabtech 3/3, Tuff Country 3/2.

Hope that helps. Again, would think any would fit 2WD as long as the UCA's are right, you'll just end up with diff drop parts you don't need.

 

[STORMIN08]

you assumption in 4 vs 6 hard parts is a correct assumption...

i has been stated that several companies will state that when asked, generally the same hard part is used, and the strut height is the differ...just as in a level kit.

again, i would feel 99% safe in ordering a kit for a 2wd as long as the upper arm stated matched what my vehicle had.