17 Yukon 4” ReadyLIFT SST Lift

[AZ6148]

The biggest variable seems to be what factory controls arms you have originally and what kit will fit them. Think it has mostly to do with the size of the hole in the knuckle for the upper ball joint being different from one UCA to the next.

I can't comment much on comparisons between 6" kits because I didn't want to got that tall this time around. Can tell you comparing the 4" though (excluding the BDS) that Readylift seems to get the most front height, right/wrong/indifferent. Folks who have installed the Fabtech seem to usually add a lower strut spacer to get more height to match up to the 3" rear lift. The Tuff Country would be similar to the Fabtech because looking at the instructions you need to buzz the top of the strut studs off for their spacer (same with Fabtech) and you don't need to do that with Readylift, so the Readylift front spacer is indeed taller. The tuff country has a 2" rear lift. So Readylift Front 4 / Rear 3, Fabtech 3/3, Tuff Country 3/2.

Hope that helps. Again, would think any would fit 2WD as long as the UCA's are right, you'll just end up with diff drop parts you don't need.

Helped out tremendously! Thanks!!!

 

[STORMIN08]

https://www.readylift.com/blog/2017/07/11/upper-control-arms/

here is some info on GM arms

 

[nick14226]

Dirty again, but got the Amp Research PowerSteps done this weekend. I think they make a huge difference over the stock running boards.

 

[Nokturnal]

Huge difference and nice and tidy all tucked away.

“Did you lift your whip some more?!”

“No, that’s just the AMP steps.”

 

[STORMIN08]

upon revisiting some of these threads... the mention of trimming the bump stop is not uncommon...but your appear to be stock, my vehicle has zero suspension mods, and my bumps are 3/8" thick pads.

any chance (no rush) of getting one more picture. i would like to see the front wheel turned all the way (either direction), and a picture through the wheel (wheel still installed) at the distance from wheel to upper control front of vehicle.

similar to this...

 

[nick14226]

upon revisiting some of these threads... the mention of trimming the bump stop is not uncommon...but your appear to be stock, my vehicle has zero suspension mods, and my bumps are 3/8" thick pads.

any chance (no rush) of getting one more picture. i would like to see the front wheel turned all the way (either direction), and a picture through the wheel (wheel still installed) at the distance from wheel to upper control front of vehicle.

similar to this...
View attachment 269442

Correct, the droop stop bumper/pads are original thickness. With the suspensionmaxx 2.5” they advise you to trim them down to 1/8”, which I did, but replaced them with full thickness with the readylift sst. I noticed with the fabtech 3” the instructions show chopping the droop stop itself right off. Seems to me the droop stop serves a purpose to protect struts, cv’s, and ball joints by limiting travel, so didn’t like the idea of not having them. Unless UCA’s are making contact during normal driving and making for a harsh ride, but then the replacement UCA geometry probably isn’t right.

So you’re looking for a pic looking down that shows how much space there is between the wheel/tire and the UCA at full lock? Noting I have 4.5” back space and a bit narrow tire at 285. If so I can do that.

 

[STORMIN08]

agree totally on the geometry and need, hence the reason i may trim off and reinstall allowing a full thickness pad to maintain softening the hit.

yes, just looking for different wheel offsets and how much clearance each offers, since you have replacement upper arms, an installed top view will really highlight how much change has been made to the front leg location.

i am hoping i can make an aftermarket arm work with my stock wheels...for now. 22x9 (+24)

 

[nick14226]

@STORMIN08 , here you go, drivers side full lock right turn. Assuming you don’t want to run spacers, but bora 1.25” worked well for me on both sets of the 22’s I was running.

 

[STORMIN08]

Good deal, assuming this is No Spacer as you have a -24 offset...thus an inch further out than my current wheel, or probably more like 3/4" accounting for the 10" wide

also, just curious...is your brake line that tight at full lock ? Looks stretched

 

[nick14226]

Correct, no spacer in pic, 20x10 -24 wheels.

Yeah, I noticed that with the brake line before and didn’t love it, it’s not tight tight, I can move it freely with little resistance, but I’d like to see a little more slack there. The mounting point is fixed on the UCA for the brake line bracket, so don’t think it would be easy to create more slack there. The pic reminded me to look at it closer though this weekend.

 

[nick14226]

@STORMIN08 do any of your stock suspension pics show the slack In that brake line at full lock? If so, please share.

 

[STORMIN08]

they do not, the similar pic i have doesnt show that portion of the line...

i will get you one.

 

[nick14226]

Made some tweaks today to allow the ABS wires and brake hoses to move freely during full lock full droop situations in the front, and abs full droop in the back. ReadyLIFT located the UCA brake bracket stud at close to the stock position and it didn’t seem quite optimal on my rig with the lift. First pic you can see the original brake bracket hole, drilled a new 1/4” hole where you see the stud/nut. Second pic shows the new situation at drivers side full lock right turn (heck of a lot better than my previous pic in this thread). Moved onto the rear, third pic twisted that wire clamp a bit, it was originally at an angle, and wrapped some electrical tape around it to fit into the clamp to retain it. I tried to oil and slide the grommet up, but that wasn’t happening.

 

[BourbonNcigars]

Looks great. I'd drive it.

 

[Joker619]

Looks outstanding!! This is the same kit the local shop recommended to me.. I had a few questions as this is my first lift and I am going in a little hesitant. My pops had us jumping into his trucks all with 6 inch lifts since we were in diapers so I know I'm down with it. Just heard so many Cons with lifts that it's had me second guessing...of course pops says, it's good to go and is all for it..

1. Are those 33s in the picture with the lift. As I also was thinking that was the best size to go with 4 inches. Cutting involved?

2. As this is a main reason I'm concerned, but do warning lights pop up...as with the one you initially stated you had to clear.

3. Does everything else function properly ie. Cruise control without issue.

I'll probably end up doing it regardless, but just a little insight on these topics would be helpful! Or I could just ask Pops again and he'll talk me into it. Maybe even going to up to 6inches Lol.

Thanks in advance!
Doing this on a 2016 Tahoe LS 2WD

 

[STORMIN08]

If done properly with a reputable kit..all works as did stock.

Also from expirience...I would rather have a lift that keeps as much geometry as stock.

Ie...a 4-6 " lift the uses a drop cross member, preferably longer struts, coils and shocks

Keeping stock parts and using extending bra kits I purely for on road looks.

I may do a 2-2 1/4" front level, but even at 1.5" my 2011 tahoe never aligned correctly

 

[Joker619]

If done properly with a reputable kit..all works as did stock.

Also from expirience...I would rather have a lift that keeps as much geometry as stock.

Ie...a 4-6 " lift the uses a drop cross member, preferably longer struts, coils and shocks

Keeping stock parts and using extending bra kits I purely for on road looks.

I may do a 2-2 1/4" front level, but even at 1.5" my 2011 tahoe never aligned correctly

Thanks Stormin...so for example this kit, the readylift 4 inch, would that suffice for more looks and daily driver...thats what I pretty much do, and take some switchbacks, dirt roads once in a blue moon. 95 percent street. And is this kit company good quality reputable parts... This is the 4 inch kit available here to me at a local shop and it's in my budget. This would be my first personal lift on one of my trucks so I think 4 would be cool. Last choice is a readylift 1.5 or their 2.5 level kit. Would I need new control arms for the level?? Cause if so, I'd be like damn, maybe I shoulda at least went for the 4. Anyway, thanks for the reply again...I'm down with the little bit harsher ride, but I think with a better kit and new 33 Toyo At3s (on 18s), it would be pretty nice and decently smooth. What do you think, go for it? I'm excepting 2-3 mpgs less, and a little harsher ride maybe.. but for the most part a nice beefier truck vs a soccer mom suv. The total with the 4inch kit, new toyos, and new pro comp wheels, 4600 installed...is that a lot??

 

[STORMIN08]

Without looking up specifics...there is a 4" that only drops the front diff for shaft angles.

For me, that is too much lift with put correcting A-arm angles.

Secondly, some replacement upper arms recommend or require a different off set wheel (seey pic again), as the tubes are larger diameter or on slightly different approach angles.


When exceeding *** amount
( tahoe/suburban being 2-2.5" max), I would prefer to see a drop crossmember Lowering the lower arms, and providing a longer knuckle to keep stock a arm angles and ball joint angles.

The new knuckle being longer (outside wheel barrel) and thick generally requires a different offset wheel.

That off set could be
1. New wheels
2. Spacers (I do not recommend)

Doing your homework now ensures a correctly performing vehicle, nice ride experience and No quick for sale signs.

 

[Joker619]

Cool

Without looking up specifics...there is a 4" that only drops the front diff for shaft angles.

For me, that is too much lift with put correcting A-arm angles.

Secondly, some replacement upper arms recommend or require a different off set wheel (seey pic again), as the tubes are larger diameter or on slightly different approach angles.


When exceeding *** amount
( tahoe/suburban being 2-2.5" max), I would prefer to see a drop crossmember Lowering the lower arms, and providing a longer knuckle to keep stock a arm angles and ball joint angles.

The new knuckle being longer (outside wheel barrel) and thick generally requires a different offset wheel.

That off set could be
1. New wheels
2. Spacers (I do not recommend)

Doing your homework now ensures a correctly performing vehicle, nice ride experience and No quick for sale signs.

Cool!! Yeah, I was told I'd have to get new wheels if I went higher than a level which I didn't initially factoring in price wise of the total lift n tires ..I was cool with stocks. Some more things to think about...thanks again!

 

[STORMIN08]

even the higher lift amount level kits, i would highly recommend the replacement of upper control arms...some of which recommend lesser off set wheels.

remove a wheel, placing jack under the control arm...lower to stock height and look around, crank wheel both ways and observe all you can on clearances...then do the same with the wheel on, but jack under crossmember, setting height to the amount of you level you desire, reinspect and take good measurements.