OEM Plug in sub location without sub

[juicedgsr95]

I've got a 2019 LS with the standard stereo (no subwoofer) In the jack storage area there is an unused plug, is this for the factory sub? Can I pull an audio signal from this plug to add a sub? Anyone have the pin-out?

 

[vishnu619]

That is where the bose amp would be. I would reach out to lljcustoms, they sell adapters that are plug and play to get a sub signal.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[hcvone]

Factory sub under center console on Bose system, I am replacing that with JL Audio stealthbox, after hearing it in the same truck as mine I was sold
https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...gm-4gsuvcnsl-10tw1-car-audio-stealthbox-94644

 

[Tonyv__]

Factory sub under center console on Bose system, I am replacing that with JL Audio stealthbox, after hearing it in the same truck as mine I was sold
https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...gm-4gsuvcnsl-10tw1-car-audio-stealthbox-94644

That fits under the center console?! I’m definitely looking for something to replace my crap sub in the Denali... do you have to add an amp or will it power from the factory amp ?

 

[hcvone]

Need to add amp

 

[GM_fan97]

Need to add amp

I am planning on doing the same - adding a JL Stealthbox to replace the stock sub/enclosure. Are you going with a small class D amp or something different?

I'm thinking of using something like this for the input and using an amp I have in inventory (JL A1400 or a JL Slash 250 v2)
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/


Also might use something like this - nice and small/easy to hide
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/acm-1300/
Not sure I believe the 300 watts RMS but Audio Control has a decent reputation

I like the DSP to correct for the bass roll-off (JL makes similar products, as do others) that I'm sure Bose is doing with their DSP on the stock amp.

 

[hcvone]

I am driving it with a 300 watts from my 5 channel amp, I am shocked how good the base is with the JL sub and no boxes to look at

 

[GM_fan97]

I am shocked how good the base is with the JL sub and no boxes to look at

Awesome! I had a JL 10W3v3 in a small sealed box, powered w/the A1400 mono amp, 500 watts RMS @2 ohms, in the trunk of my 97 Deville (RIP) and have been itching to get that bass performance back. The Yukon XL has a little more cabin volume than the trucks but I'm hoping performance is similar to what you're experiencing. It surely will be better than the stock amp w/cheap plastic enclosure.

 

[GM_fan97]

I'm getting the stealthbox installed at the end of January - scheduled for the 29th assuming they can get it in by then. I had heard there was a delay getting those since they are nearly all made-to-order in Florida but the installer didn't seem to think it would be an issue. I'll post my thoughts on the before/after. Hoping it'll be a big upgrade and still integrate well with the rest of the system. I'm also getting the RC-1 bass knob added so I can turn it up/down from the driver's seat. Amp is going to be mounted in the cargo area, under the load floor cover thing.

 

[hcvone]

I'm getting the stealthbox installed at the end of January - scheduled for the 29th assuming they can get it in by then. I had heard there was a delay getting those since they are nearly all made-to-order in Florida but the installer didn't seem to think it would be an issue. I'll post my thoughts on the before/after. Hoping it'll be a big upgrade and still integrate well with the rest of the system. I'm also getting the RC-1 bass knob added so I can turn it up/down from the driver's seat. Amp is going to be mounted in the cargo area, under the load floor cover thing.

Mine took about 3 weeks to get, their web site said 3-5 days, but we were told it would be 3-5 weeks when we ordered it. You can't believe how poor the stock one is until you replace it, really happy no boxes taking up room in my truck, and really good bass

 

[GM_fan97]

Mine took about 3 weeks to get, their web site said 3-5 days, but we were told it would be 3-5 weeks when we ordered it. You can't believe how poor the stock one is until you replace it, really happy no boxes taking up room in my truck, and really good bass

The stealthbox came in on time and the shop got most of the install done today. I could have picked it up basically as they were closing today but work was busy and I didn't want to rush them so I'm going to pick it up tomorrow

I couldn't find my JL Audio A1400 amp (long story but I'm pretty sure I loaned it to my brother and he sold the car w/my amp in it powering his sub) so I ended up getting the XD300/1v2 to power it.

Quick question on the install: is defeating the active noise cancelling definitely required? (snipping the purple wire I think). I'm 99% sure the install place took care of it but figured I'd pose the question prior to picking it up

 

[hcvone]

We tried it unplugged both sitting and driving, and plugged in sitting and driving and could not find any difference, now maybe it's something that Callaway turns off, but they say no, so I am just not sure, it is disconnected on mine

 

[BlackZ71-15]

The stealthbox came in on time and the shop got most of the install done today. I could have picked it up basically as they were closing today but work was busy and I didn't want to rush them so I'm going to pick it up tomorrow

How do you like the stealthbox? I've been contemplating getting one for months, but I'm worried it would cause rattling issues in the center console or dash.

 

[hcvone]

I am really happy with mine, great bass punch

 

[GM_fan97]

How do you like the stealthbox? I've been contemplating getting one for months, but I'm worried it would cause rattling issues in the center console or dash.

Hey, I am definitely enjoying it thus far. Ended up picking it up last Saturday (Jan 30th). Still want to adjust some of the settings but I'm waiting to do that until they are done with a fix on the install. They used a line-output converter that also provides a 12v remote turn on to tell the JL amp to turn on...and if I don't have the volume at 40% or higher, the Kicker LOC doesn't output enough on the 12v lead to keep the JL amp awake...and thus it turns off after about 30 seconds The install place was going to correct it this past Saturday but I already had plans so they are going to fix it this upcoming Saturday (Jan 13th).

Kicker makes the LOC and from what I can tell, the LOC itself doesn't require it's own power - it converts the high-level signal from the stock Bose sub amp into a 12v DC output for the remote turn on (in addition to the regular LOC function of RCA's for the JL amp inputs). Apparently it is harder to find a switched 12v wire in the newer vehicles and this Kicker LOC was supposed to solve that problem by eliminating the need for a relay.

Anyway, once that is all fixed/happy, then I'll play with the crossover frequency. They set it to 80hz and 24db cutoff slope...I'll probably keep the 24db slope but might lower the crossover. I also have a JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box from a prior vehicle that I want to test out just for kicks. I got the HD-RLC remote level control for the sub as well which I 100% recommend. I had it installed just past the lower dash trim, driver's side in front of my right knee. I can still lean forward and reach it but it's outta sight and they didn't have to drill any holes through the lower dash piece = win

To answer the question on rattles - I haven't heard any yet but haven't played around w/it too much still...haven't been driving much w/working from home + the snow in the philly area.

 

[hcvone]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

 

[GM_fan97]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

Nice, that is good to hear. I forgot to mention that as part of the install they basically snip the wire that feeds the noise cancelation to disable it. This is different than the "Bose Autopilot", the noise canceling cannot be turned off via a setting, need to cut the wire. It can be "undone" and re-enabled if you ever put the factory sub back in. I wasn't sure if this was 100% necessary but after some Googling, an aftermarket sub (more powerful) creates a feedback loop where the noise canceling adjusts the signal to the sub in an attempt to cancel out some of the bass...which makes the sub sound different, which then makes the noise canceling change again, etc, etc, and apparently it sounds horrendous.

I am convinced I am hearing more road noise now lol - probably just my imagination since I know they disabled the noise canceling...either way, I was debating adding sound deadening to the doors + floor.

Did you DIY the sound deadening or pay an installer? The shop that did the install for me (World Wide Stereo in Montgomeryville PA) uses Dynamat brand exclusively so I'd have to use their stuff...I'm sure it works fine but I think I'm paying a premium for the "Dynamat" name. The increased product cost and paying for the labor is tempting me to try it myself. I have experience taking panels out, replacing speakers, etc...I just have a fear of putting it somewhere that causes clearance/panel fitment issues.

 

[gat0r]

if you have the time, patience & tools... do the sound deadening yourself.
look at the diff products... some are tar/asphalt based & have a smell.
butyl rubber based is the better option

good info on this site
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to

 

[BlackZ71-15]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

Hey, I am definitely enjoying it thus far. Ended up picking it up last Saturday (Jan 30th). Still want to adjust some of the settings but I'm waiting to do that until they are done with a fix on the install. They used a line-output converter that also provides a 12v remote turn on to tell the JL amp to turn on...and if I don't have the volume at 40% or higher, the Kicker LOC doesn't output enough on the 12v lead to keep the JL amp awake...and thus it turns off after about 30 seconds The install place was going to correct it this past Saturday but I already had plans so they are going to fix it this upcoming Saturday (Jan 13th).

Kicker makes the LOC and from what I can tell, the LOC itself doesn't require it's own power - it converts the high-level signal from the stock Bose sub amp into a 12v DC output for the remote turn on (in addition to the regular LOC function of RCA's for the JL amp inputs). Apparently it is harder to find a switched 12v wire in the newer vehicles and this Kicker LOC was supposed to solve that problem by eliminating the need for a relay.

Anyway, once that is all fixed/happy, then I'll play with the crossover frequency. They set it to 80hz and 24db cutoff slope...I'll probably keep the 24db slope but might lower the crossover. I also have a JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box from a prior vehicle that I want to test out just for kicks. I got the HD-RLC remote level control for the sub as well which I 100% recommend. I had it installed just past the lower dash trim, driver's side in front of my right knee. I can still lean forward and reach it but it's outta sight and they didn't have to drill any holes through the lower dash piece = win

To answer the question on rattles - I haven't heard any yet but haven't played around w/it too much still...haven't been driving much w/working from home + the snow in the philly area.

Awesome! Im glad both of you guys like them, Im probably gonna pull the trigger this coming weekend, thanks!

 

[hcvone]

Nice, that is good to hear. I forgot to mention that as part of the install they basically snip the wire that feeds the noise cancelation to disable it. This is different than the "Bose Autopilot", the noise canceling cannot be turned off via a setting, need to cut the wire. It can be "undone" and re-enabled if you ever put the factory sub back in. I wasn't sure if this was 100% necessary but after some Googling, an aftermarket sub (more powerful) creates a feedback loop where the noise canceling adjusts the signal to the sub in an attempt to cancel out some of the bass...which makes the sub sound different, which then makes the noise canceling change again, etc, etc, and apparently it sounds horrendous.

I am convinced I am hearing more road noise now lol - probably just my imagination since I know they disabled the noise canceling...either way, I was debating adding sound deadening to the doors + floor.

Did you DIY the sound deadening or pay an installer? The shop that did the install for me (World Wide Stereo in Montgomeryville PA) uses Dynamat brand exclusively so I'd have to use their stuff...I'm sure it works fine but I think I'm paying a premium for the "Dynamat" name. The increased product cost and paying for the labor is tempting me to try it myself. I have experience taking panels out, replacing speakers, etc...I just have a fear of putting it somewhere that causes clearance/panel fitment issues.

We're like neighbors, they do good work, never installed anything for me, but purchased many things thru the years from them. My installer who did my Tahoe sound system and radenso radar and laser, Joe Bruno Designs installed the dyamat, everything was removed from my truck inside, when I saw it I thought it would never go back together without rattles, but you hit a pothole or railroad tracks and less noise than stock which shocked me, thought I would be searching for rattles for years, but none