Planning Dual 12" Rockville Install: Can I bypass Bose "Bass Choke" without a full rewire?

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Doubeleive

Wes
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So it’s not like you’re gutting wire from the doors and rewiring the whole system right? Because that’s what I was kind of picturing.
the factory wiring is good up to 200w (door speakers, etc) if you can get 200w door speakers in and slapping kudos to you
normal installs are going to be peak only, ya the amp may say it's 300w and the speakers may handle 300w
but that's all peak, it's going to be about 1/2 of that in realty. it's all marketing bs
 

Doubeleive

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there was a brief period in the 80's where 200w meant 200w and you actually might get something that exceeded that, but that's all history now
 

Joseph Garcia

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So it’s not like you’re gutting wire from the doors and rewiring the whole system right? Because that’s what I was kind of picturing.
No. As @Doubeleive states, the existing speaker wires are good for any aftermarket conversion, short of building a 'competition' audio system. And, with the proper interface connector, you can use the existing connectors between the new head unit and the amps without cutting wires, while still retaining all of your steering wheel controls.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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No. As @Doubeleive states, the existing speaker wires are good for any aftermarket conversion, short of building a 'competition' audio system. And, with the proper interface connector, you can use the existing connectors between the new head unit and the amps without cutting wires, while still retaining all of your steering wheel controls.
Yeah, I just want some good thump. I was only able to get signal off of the Bose sub wires via the high-level harness. But for some reason, those highs just sound ugly. My next step is at least getting that CT sounds bass restore.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Is it really the high level harness signal and hose signal or do the subs just sucks lol
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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When I flip the sups upward, turn stock sub on, and stuff ports it sounds *decent*
 

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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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So we think it sounds like this (click for YT video) because of the high level inputs and a “dirty signal?” Or is the box coming apart like some have told me on bassheads on a budget group on Facebook? Lot of snobs on there to so they automatically assume the worst…
 

Joseph Garcia

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IMO, it is highly unlikely that your issue is with the sub enclosure itself. A ported enclosure can sound dirty thumpy, if it is overdriven, but it would be LOUD dirty thumpy, and I don't think that is your issue. I believe that your video confirms that, as there is little speaker throw/deflection in the speakers themselves, way less than their design potential, which shows that they are not being overdriven. Your issue is prior to the speakers themselves.
 

Doubeleive

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So we think it sounds like this (click for YT video) because of the high level inputs and a “dirty signal?” Or is the box coming apart like some have told me on bassheads on a budget group on Facebook? Lot of snobs on there to so they automatically assume the worst…
the box looks somewhat new it should not be coming apart, I think you are trying to adjust for a signal that is not there.
the crossover should be on LP (low pass) and bass eq/crossover hz are going to be your adjustments, gain is used as needed
but leave that alone and do the rest of the speakers first
my preference is to tune the front speakers alone (rear off, sub off), then turn off the front, leave sub off and adjust (only the rear), then turn off the front & rear and adjust (only the subs).
then put everything in the center balance/fade, then use the bass control knob only to increase or decrease sub output.
going forward the bass knob is all you should ever need to adjust, unless you are doing a couple different tunes for eq presets for different type of music (then just repeat the above and save the preset.)

**if the sub box were coming apart you should be able to feel it or see it and throw some screws in it in that specific area, that usually works for a good while until it just can't be fixed anymore.
I think the rattle is just signal related, some speakers & box are tuned for a specific hertz and when you fall way out of that range it just doesn't work.

**that "wedge" sub box design does not work well in suv's like ours, it should be rectangular and not wedge shaped
what sounds best in my opinion is a box that fires straight up towards the ceiling, but for me that won't work because I load crap in the back all the time.
the next best choice is a bandpass but they never survive long unless you get a expensive custom made one (a good bandpass will sound fantastic)
a mass produced one will last maybe 2 years, depends on use I guess I have completely obliterated 3 or 4 of them in the past
3rd best choice is a rectangular box and face it towards the rear. Mine I had custom built from 3/4" birch in 2015 and all that has happened is a small strip of carpet needs to be glued back down. the grill covers have done there job hence they are dented and worn. so this box is 11 years old and solid as day 1.
birch.jpg

birch1.jpg


a bandpass design just like this with slightly smaller port holes will sound really good, but they are not popular (at all) and it is hard to find a well made one unless you have a cabinet maker build you one and even then how long it last's is questionable which is probably why they are not popular. you will see a couple super cheap ones out there, don't bite they will just fall apart. this one I don't know it say's it is mdf, it might last a few years. it's $300 all over (without speakers).
bandpass.JPG
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Hey guys, quick update.


I took the Rockville setup to Sound Decisions here in Aberdeen today. After they listened and looked at it, they said one of the voice coils is starting to fail and the box is flexing pretty bad at the seams (you can feel the panels vibrating).


I’m pretty let down honestly. I’ve spent a ton of time trying to get this thing to sound right and it just isn’t working out. I’m gonna go ahead and return the Rockville stuff.


The shop offered to finance a Memphis dual 12” package for around $400. Memphis is a solid brand so I’m thinking about pulling the trigger on that instead.


Appreciate all the help and suggestions y’all gave me. Learned a lot even if it didn’t work out.
 

Doubeleive

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Hey guys, quick update.


I took the Rockville setup to Sound Decisions here in Aberdeen today. After they listened and looked at it, they said one of the voice coils is starting to fail and the box is flexing pretty bad at the seams (you can feel the panels vibrating).


I’m pretty let down honestly. I’ve spent a ton of time trying to get this thing to sound right and it just isn’t working out. I’m gonna go ahead and return the Rockville stuff.


The shop offered to finance a Memphis dual 12” package for around $400. Memphis is a solid brand so I’m thinking about pulling the trigger on that instead.


Appreciate all the help and suggestions y’all gave me. Learned a lot even if it didn’t work out.
not a wedge right? got a picture of the box?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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Talked to Sound Decisions here in Aberdeen about a Memphis dual 12” package professionally installed — came out to $700+ after wiring, LOC, and labor. Way above budget right now.
Also looked at the MTX TNE212D dual 12” package but the Autotek amp that comes with it is sketchy.
Ended up pulling the trigger on the CT Sounds TROPO single 12” complete package — sub, amp, and wiring kit. 650W RMS, quality brand, within budget. Going the DIY route since I already have power and ground run in the truck. But to be honest, I’ll probably just gut all that Rockville wiring and put the CT wiring in
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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I meant the memphis...
that single will probably sound better than the rockville ever did or would
Oh. Got ya. Not a wedge it’s just a big rectangular box. With two ports either on the outside or the middle of the front. Wasn’t able to grab a picture of the box. Regardless $700 for installation, the subwoofer package, amp, and LOC, and wiring kit. Is WAY above my budget. (For the Memphis dual 12s)

So yeah, gonna stick with the single 12 inch right now as it’s affordable and in my budget and is a reputable brand
 

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