Hi all,
A lot of info out there and I figured I would post what I did on my XL. This setup allowed me to keep the factory Bose amp.
First, I am an old guy and have been a die-hard rock and metal guy since my older brothers were unwrapping their new Sabbath and VH1 albums! I have been installing systems for a long time in every car I have had and I have never grown out of it.
The factory Bose system in this was in perfect shape! But, I needed to modernize and get phone connectivity. Plus, the sound quality factory system just did not cut it! 20 years ago, maybe…
I was on a mission to spend less than $1k on everything. This is a fishing rig after all! All of the main components below came out to $930ish. I had pretty much everything else (wire/cables, sound deadener, box materials, etc.) on hand.
The setup – all part information for the system is detailed below.
I kept the factory Bose amp and sub in the center console. All factory speaker wires were used. I installed a Pioneer DVD head unit and all connectivity was done through a CRUX interface. Everything worked perfectly!
New speakers vs. the Bose amp ohm issue – The Bose amp has a 2 ohm output. Major issue with most aftermarket speakers being 4 ohms. The NVX front components are 2 ohm, Infinity rear door speakers are 3 ohm and the JBL rear quarter speakers are 2.3 ohm. Sound deadener added to all 4 inner door skins.
I built the sub box to fill the hole between the rear seats and make the area flat from front to back when the seats are down. and started with a 10” sub. Then, realized I could go to a shallow 12” Pioneer. The box volume is perfect and it has worked great. I will re-cover it at some point to match.
While this is not going to win any sort of a SPL contest, the sound quality blew me away! Even with the mis-matched brands! Great lows out of the sub(s). Super clean mids and highs. The rear quarter speakers really add some high end definition.
The sub was very tight when I first installed it. It broke in VERY well and is very musical. Hits great lows and is very punchy. Far better than I expected it to be! Due to the location, the “feel” of the sub(s) is great! The remote volume control helps a lot.
Equipment details:
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH21EX DVD Head Unit ($300)
Front Speakers: NVX VS65KIT2F 6.5 Component set. Recoil BB-T Bass Blockers installed on tweeter. Tweeters in A-pillar OE location. ($120 + $8)
Rear Door Speakers: Infinity REF-5032cfx ($70)
Rear Quarter Speakers: JBL GX328 – 3.5” with Recoil BB-35 Bass Blockers ($ 65 + $9)
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-A3000LS4 12” Shallow Sub – 1500w max ($115)
Subwoofer Amp: NVX VAD10004 Monoblock Class D w/remote – 1000w ($145)
Interface: Crux CX-GMC2 Steering Wheel Interface ($100)
Sorry - No front speaker pics. I thought I had them, but...
A lot of info out there and I figured I would post what I did on my XL. This setup allowed me to keep the factory Bose amp.
First, I am an old guy and have been a die-hard rock and metal guy since my older brothers were unwrapping their new Sabbath and VH1 albums! I have been installing systems for a long time in every car I have had and I have never grown out of it.
The factory Bose system in this was in perfect shape! But, I needed to modernize and get phone connectivity. Plus, the sound quality factory system just did not cut it! 20 years ago, maybe…
I was on a mission to spend less than $1k on everything. This is a fishing rig after all! All of the main components below came out to $930ish. I had pretty much everything else (wire/cables, sound deadener, box materials, etc.) on hand.
The setup – all part information for the system is detailed below.
I kept the factory Bose amp and sub in the center console. All factory speaker wires were used. I installed a Pioneer DVD head unit and all connectivity was done through a CRUX interface. Everything worked perfectly!
New speakers vs. the Bose amp ohm issue – The Bose amp has a 2 ohm output. Major issue with most aftermarket speakers being 4 ohms. The NVX front components are 2 ohm, Infinity rear door speakers are 3 ohm and the JBL rear quarter speakers are 2.3 ohm. Sound deadener added to all 4 inner door skins.
I built the sub box to fill the hole between the rear seats and make the area flat from front to back when the seats are down. and started with a 10” sub. Then, realized I could go to a shallow 12” Pioneer. The box volume is perfect and it has worked great. I will re-cover it at some point to match.
While this is not going to win any sort of a SPL contest, the sound quality blew me away! Even with the mis-matched brands! Great lows out of the sub(s). Super clean mids and highs. The rear quarter speakers really add some high end definition.
The sub was very tight when I first installed it. It broke in VERY well and is very musical. Hits great lows and is very punchy. Far better than I expected it to be! Due to the location, the “feel” of the sub(s) is great! The remote volume control helps a lot.
Equipment details:
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH21EX DVD Head Unit ($300)
Front Speakers: NVX VS65KIT2F 6.5 Component set. Recoil BB-T Bass Blockers installed on tweeter. Tweeters in A-pillar OE location. ($120 + $8)
Rear Door Speakers: Infinity REF-5032cfx ($70)
Rear Quarter Speakers: JBL GX328 – 3.5” with Recoil BB-35 Bass Blockers ($ 65 + $9)
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-A3000LS4 12” Shallow Sub – 1500w max ($115)
Subwoofer Amp: NVX VAD10004 Monoblock Class D w/remote – 1000w ($145)
Interface: Crux CX-GMC2 Steering Wheel Interface ($100)
Sorry - No front speaker pics. I thought I had them, but...


