So the pin out has changed on the 2025 Tahoe Bose 10 speaker for adding an amp or DSP.
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Sharing my work and findings if it helps...
2025 Chevy Tahoe RST with factory amplified Bose (10 Speaker system), no visible mics in headliner, no ANC that I could replicate. If I'm correct in saying this the anc plug should be the 3rd plug on the amp and in my case it was empty - no harness.
* according to Travis' post below all the 2025 have anc now: "They all have anc. It's now built into the infotainment system. There is no longer a third plug for it. The manual states, a dealer can turn it off. But after taking the tahoe to 5 dealerships, no one can turn it off".
Equipment installed:
Audiocontrol Lc2i Pro, JL Audio XDM600/1, 2 x 12W0 in Basswedge enclosure (CP212W0V3)
Mounted the amp behind oem bose amp, lc2i next to oem amp, fit nicely and still somewhat accessible through fusebox access door. It's a bit of a pain to remove the rear quarter panel so wanted to make sure I could access/tweak as needed. There's plenty of room there to mount small amps and fabricate brackets if needed as long as you're not dealing with oem sub there or an aftermarket stealthbox.
* definitely need 25ft of power cable if trying to get from battery to left rear / oem amp location. I used every inch of the length and it was perfect from battery to my amp mount. Battery on passenger side, crossed over under plastic shroud by hood release and drilled through firewall directly above hood release cable.
I tapped signal in to the lc2i via rear doors as I had read from other here and on other forums that tapping into front woofers or oe sub still had issues (but I believe they did have anc where I don't appear to) - even still I chose to grab a full range signal and let the lc2i do it's thing.
Wiring colors at oem bose amp slightly different than my application guide and resources so I made some notes:
LF Tweeter - blue/red, blue/brn - 3.5ohm - pins 7+15
RF Tweeter - wht/yel, brn/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 6+14
Center - yel/wht, blue/yel - pins 1+9
LF Mid - blue, brn/blue - 2ohm - pins 3+7
RF Mid - yel, yel/blk - 2ohm - pins 2+6
LR Door - grn, grn/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 3+11
RR Door - wht, blue/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 2+10
LR Surr - wht/grn, brn/wht - 3.3ohm - pins 5+13
RR Surr - vio, gry/wht - 3.3ohm - pins 4+12
Sub (in console) - blue/gry, grn/blk - 1ohm - pins 1+5
Previous years listed the surround speakers as parallelled with the rear doors and having caps on them, on this year/model it's not the same. The surround speakers are on their own channels, no caps, no continuity with rear doors, on their own - direct to amp
Oem amp 12v+ = red/yel - pin 4
Oem amp gnd = blk/white - pin 8
Overall system turned out good and sounded great, customer happy. Only hiccup was using GTO signal sense on the lc2i, so either use "audio" or a dedicated switched source for remote in.
Hope this helps
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Where are all the mic's | Sharing my work and findings if it helps.. | Facebook
Sharing my work and findings if it helps... 2025 Chevy Tahoe RST with factory amplified Bose (10 Speaker system), no visible mics in headliner, no ANC that I could replicate. If I'm correct in...
www.facebook.com
for the non Facebook people here's the post.
Sharing my work and findings if it helps...
2025 Chevy Tahoe RST with factory amplified Bose (10 Speaker system), no visible mics in headliner, no ANC that I could replicate. If I'm correct in saying this the anc plug should be the 3rd plug on the amp and in my case it was empty - no harness.
* according to Travis' post below all the 2025 have anc now: "They all have anc. It's now built into the infotainment system. There is no longer a third plug for it. The manual states, a dealer can turn it off. But after taking the tahoe to 5 dealerships, no one can turn it off".
Equipment installed:
Audiocontrol Lc2i Pro, JL Audio XDM600/1, 2 x 12W0 in Basswedge enclosure (CP212W0V3)
Mounted the amp behind oem bose amp, lc2i next to oem amp, fit nicely and still somewhat accessible through fusebox access door. It's a bit of a pain to remove the rear quarter panel so wanted to make sure I could access/tweak as needed. There's plenty of room there to mount small amps and fabricate brackets if needed as long as you're not dealing with oem sub there or an aftermarket stealthbox.
* definitely need 25ft of power cable if trying to get from battery to left rear / oem amp location. I used every inch of the length and it was perfect from battery to my amp mount. Battery on passenger side, crossed over under plastic shroud by hood release and drilled through firewall directly above hood release cable.
I tapped signal in to the lc2i via rear doors as I had read from other here and on other forums that tapping into front woofers or oe sub still had issues (but I believe they did have anc where I don't appear to) - even still I chose to grab a full range signal and let the lc2i do it's thing.
Wiring colors at oem bose amp slightly different than my application guide and resources so I made some notes:
LF Tweeter - blue/red, blue/brn - 3.5ohm - pins 7+15
RF Tweeter - wht/yel, brn/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 6+14
Center - yel/wht, blue/yel - pins 1+9
LF Mid - blue, brn/blue - 2ohm - pins 3+7
RF Mid - yel, yel/blk - 2ohm - pins 2+6
LR Door - grn, grn/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 3+11
RR Door - wht, blue/blk - 3.5ohm - pins 2+10
LR Surr - wht/grn, brn/wht - 3.3ohm - pins 5+13
RR Surr - vio, gry/wht - 3.3ohm - pins 4+12
Sub (in console) - blue/gry, grn/blk - 1ohm - pins 1+5
Previous years listed the surround speakers as parallelled with the rear doors and having caps on them, on this year/model it's not the same. The surround speakers are on their own channels, no caps, no continuity with rear doors, on their own - direct to amp
Oem amp 12v+ = red/yel - pin 4
Oem amp gnd = blk/white - pin 8
Overall system turned out good and sounded great, customer happy. Only hiccup was using GTO signal sense on the lc2i, so either use "audio" or a dedicated switched source for remote in.
Hope this helps
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