What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Just Fishing

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Hoe is back together, minus the wire retainer on the top of the manifold and the engine cover.

New Found i had an ac delco belt and ac belt, interesting...
Falling apart when i was cleaning/degreasing.
What would be the chance that it's original? :jester:

Guessing it was replaced by the dealer a while back, probably one of the times it was traded in...

Anyways, took the PN from both and ordered via Amazon.
Original put back on for now.

I swear engineers must take bets on who can route the belt to be the hardest to guess, or the most ridiculous.
I finally gave in and reviewed the service manual.
Also wondering why no sticker showing the routing.
:rolleyes:

Tensioner pully was also sloppy, so i ordered a new AC delco tensioner.

Any clues on a PN for the idler?


Also put in fresh dex mixed with distilled water, bought two gallons and mixed up 4 gallons.
Using it all i'm at the "full cold" and i have yet to start the engine with it... *sigh*
:nolol:
 
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Hoe is back together, minus the wire retainer on the top of the manifold and the engine cover.

New Found i had an ac delco belt and ac belt, interesting...
Falling apart when i was cleaning/degreasing.
What would be the chance that it's original? :jester:

Guessing it was replaced by the dealer a while back, probably one of the times it was traded in...

Anyways, took the PN from both and ordered via Amazon.
Original put back on for now.

I swear engineers must take bets on who can route the belt to be the hardest to guess, or the most ridiculous.
I finally gave in and reviewed the service manual.
Also wondering why no sticker showing the routing.
:rolleyes:

Tensioner pully was also sloppy, so i ordered a new AC delco tensioner.

Any clues on a PN for the idler?


Also put in fresh dex mixed with distilled water, bought two gallons and mixed up 4 gallons.
Using it all i'm at the "full cold" and i have yet to start the engine with it... *sigh*
:nolol:
As long as the pulleys turn in the correct direction and the belt fits tight, it doesn't matter how it's routed...lol.

I have small white arrows painted on all the pulleys on my mustang so I know when I put the belt on everythings turning the right way. It doesn't have some of the stock accessories, plus has some additional ones like a vacuum pump and supercharger. There is a couple ways the belt can be routed, but each takes a slightly different length belt. They'll all work in a pinch, but one way the tensioner is just about bottomed out with one belt, but use the other belt and it's in the middle of it's range, or use the different routing and the first belt works fine....lol

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cfmistry

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Looked at it and now I'm suspicious that it's starting to lift itself again. It did this back when I was lowering it over a year ago. It just seemed to be getting taller and taller the longer I worked on it. That wheel gap is looking bigger than ever. It's not the wheel and tire combo- I compared them to the 22s when I was switching them out. They're right at 1/8" shorter OD. It needs to come down 1/2", maybe 3/4".


View attachment 266606

:confused: Looks perfect to me. Is that a 3/4” drop?

Instead of measuring fender height I measure running board height. I think it’s less arbitrary since it’s not an arch.
 

alpha_omega

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Hoe is back together, minus the wire retainer on the top of the manifold and the engine cover.

New Found i had an ac delco belt and ac belt, interesting...
Falling apart when i was cleaning/degreasing.
What would be the chance that it's original? :jester:

Guessing it was replaced by the dealer a while back, probably one of the times it was traded in...

Anyways, took the PN from both and ordered via Amazon.
Original put back on for now.

I swear engineers must take bets on who can route the belt to be the hardest to guess, or the most ridiculous.
I finally gave in and reviewed the service manual.
Also wondering why no sticker showing the routing.
:rolleyes:

Tensioner pully was also sloppy, so i ordered a new AC delco tensioner.

Any clues on a PN for the idler?


Also put in fresh dex mixed with distilled water, bought two gallons and mixed up 4 gallons.
Using it all i'm at the "full cold" and i have yet to start the engine with it... *sigh*
:nolol:

P/N for the idler pulley: 12669569

i recently replaced mine along with a “few” other parts.
 

Doubeleive

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looks easy enough I think this seal has little plastic clips, mine has not arrived yet but I was looking thru the 11,000+ pages of the service manual and saw it, lol
SEAL.jpg
 

alpha_omega

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As long as the pulleys turn in the correct direction and the belt fits tight, it doesn't matter how it's routed...lol.

I have small white arrows painted on all the pulleys on my mustang so I know when I put the belt on everythings turning the right way. It doesn't have some of the stock accessories, plus has some additional ones like a vacuum pump and supercharger. There is a couple ways the belt can be routed, but each takes a slightly different length belt. They'll all work in a pinch, but one way the tensioner is just about bottomed out with one belt, but use the other belt and it's in the middle of it's range, or use the different routing and the first belt works fine....lol

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The problem I’ve seen with the Yuks/Hoes is that guys will either install an alternator that is too big or too small or they will do the same with the harmonic balancer/crank dampener. I’ve even seen them do both and then wonder why the belt has slop in it or is so tight they end up warping the tensioner spring.
 

alpha_omega

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looks easy enough I think this seal has little plastic clips, mine has not arrived yet but I was looking thru the 11,000+ pages of the service manual and saw it, lol
View attachment 266642
Which manual are you using?

Does that mention anything about using weatherstripping “adhesive”? 3M makes some pretty awesome stuff that at first glance might make you wonder why you wasted the money, but once you get the hang of it the stuff is magical. Works similar to the old gasket maker, but is a little more forgiving and cleanup is easier.
 

iamdub

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Aka, GM lean!

Is there gas in the tank?

Lol


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But that's backwards from the GM lean! The driver side should be lower. Besides, I adjusted for that when I lowered it. After driving, both sides vary from being level to within 1/8" at most. Has about half a tank. I'll have to measure it to get some actual numbers. I swear it's losing its drop.
 

iamdub

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:confused: Looks perfect to me. Is that a 3/4” drop?

Instead of measuring fender height I measure running board height. I think it’s less arbitrary since it’s not an arch.

Thank you.

3.5/4.5

Front was supposed to be 4" with the spindles and struts, but each yielded 1.75". The rear is Jeep TJ coils and were just an experiment, but stayed cuz I like them.
 

Doubeleive

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Which manual are you using?

Does that mention anything about using weatherstripping “adhesive”? 3M makes some pretty awesome stuff that at first glance might make you wonder why you wasted the money, but once you get the hang of it the stuff is magical. Works similar to the old gasket maker, but is a little more forgiving and cleanup is easier.
07-14 manual that you can get off ebay for $25 it is a pdf file on a cd, I just copy and pasted it into my documents, it's a hack job so it doesn't hyper link pages in the file so it makes it kind a of a pia to use but the information is there. but no it just says what I pasted in the photo nothing about using adhesive on that particular seal, I am pretty sure it has plastic clips so adhesive is not used, the upper seal that goes along the top does use a self adhesive along the backside of the rear door, the front part just slides into a groove along the edge of the front window, I think they made it like that so if you have to replace the front window then it wont tear up the seal.
 
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But that's backwards from the GM lean! The driver side should be lower. Besides, I adjusted for that when I lowered it. After driving, both sides vary from being level to within 1/8" at most. Has about half a tank. I'll have to measure it to get some actual numbers. I swear it's losing its drop.
Not backwards if the tank is empty

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lee.solorzano

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I know it’s off topic. But let guys know have been post last few day cause got a kidney trans plant the 31. So it will some time before I get to work on truck but I will Entertain myself with reading what you guys have done thanks Lee


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alpha_omega

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View attachment 266553 View attachment 266555
The problem with the valve covers is they’re raw aluminum so it won’t be long before they’re oxidized again and look bad. Unless you plan on removing them occasionally and re-polishing I recommend painting them with something like VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did mine 2 years ago and they still look great, it holds up to pressure washing or a scrub brush and degreaser.
Why did you use the “wrinkle plus” vs. the standard VHT paint? Just curious if it’s because that’s what you had laying around, or if it’s something specific for alum/oxi. I’ve used VHT on the manifolds/headers and calipers before but never tried their wrinkle plus line.

07-14 manual that you can get off ebay for $25 it is a pdf file on a cd, I just copy and pasted it into my documents, it's a hack job so it doesn't hyper link pages in the file so it makes it kind a of a pia to use but the information is there. but no it just says what I pasted in the photo nothing about using adhesive on that particular seal, I am pretty sure it has plastic clips so adhesive is not used, the upper seal that goes along the top does use a self adhesive along the backside of the rear door, the front part just slides into a groove along the edge of the front window, I think they made it like that so if you have to replace the front window then it wont tear up the seal.
It might be worth trying some of the 3M stuff. It definitely won’t cause any tear issues with future repairs.

C5A37388-669E-4E83-A7D0-FEB687F8D03E.jpeg
 

Fless

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I know it’s off topic. But let guys know have been post last few day cause got a kidney trans plant the 31. So it will some time before I get to work on truck but I will Entertain myself with reading what you guys have done thanks Lee

Praying for a full recovery for you, @lee.solorzano. May 2021 be a great year for your health!
 

alpha_omega

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I know it’s off topic. But let guys know have been post last few day cause got a kidney trans plant the 31. So it will some time before I get to work on truck but I will Entertain myself with reading what you guys have done thanks Lee


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Welcome “back” Lee. Here’s to a speedy recovery! Dialysis sucks, so let’s hope for all to go well with your new hardware.
 

Doubeleive

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Why did you use the “wrinkle plus” vs. the standard VHT paint? Just curious if it’s because that’s what you had laying around, or if it’s something specific for alum/oxi. I’ve used VHT on the manifolds/headers and calipers before but never tried their wrinkle plus line.


It might be worth trying some of the 3M stuff. It definitely won’t cause any tear issues with future repairs.

View attachment 266646
the problem with the inner seals on the nnbs is the bottom part gets all torn up from getting in & out, never had that problem on my nbs, both driver and passenger side were tore up already when I bought mine and every one I looked at were as well, it doesn't seem to have gotten any worse since I have owned it and I don't think I ever step there so it must happen from short people :shrug:
 

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