kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Original radiator sprung a leak so it needs replacing. I always try to upgrade anything that needs replacing if I can find something better.
Overkill.... probably, but I'm ok with that.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Original radiator sprung a leak so it needs replacing. I always try to upgrade anything that needs replacing if I can find something better.
Overkill.... probably, but I'm ok with that.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Cold Case has them listed for $385 + shipping.
Summit and Jegs have them listed for $370 plus a rebate right now from them drops it to like $345 + shipping.
I found it on Autoplicity for $302.71 shipped.
I ordered it late Monday night and it arrived today from Michigan to Florida.
For the price it seemed like a no brainer to me.
The construction and design of this radiator is on par with Mishimoto and Be Cool radiators.
Here is a cross section view of the different radiators they offer.
The one I got is on the far right...
That’s a good price.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I got a rad like that for my vette, Champion brand iirc.
It has been good to me, and handled a bit of an over pressure very well.
When looking at the radiator from the side, is it perfectly flat or does it have a slight twist to it?
The one in my vette had a slight twist.
Never caused an issue, but it looked a little odd.
It has been good to me, and handled a bit of an over pressure very well.
When looking at the radiator from the side, is it perfectly flat or does it have a slight twist to it?
The one in my vette had a slight twist.
Never caused an issue, but it looked a little odd.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I got a rad like that for my vette, Champion brand iirc.
It has been good to me, and handled a bit of an over pressure very well.
When looking at the radiator from the side, is it perfectly flat or does it have a slight twist to it?
The one in my vette had a slight twist.
Never caused an issue, but it looked a little odd.
It looks flat to me. That is odd.
I'm having this problem. My rear lines rusted in the 04. Changed them but can't get pressure to the back lines for anything gallons of fluid used so far cycled abs....nothing trucks been down for 2 weeks
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Make sure the caliper bleed screws are on the top or you will never get them bled right.
Otherwise it might be a master cylinder issue.
Also if the lines rusted out, you probably got crud in the calipers.
Might need to disassemble and clean them if a good solid manual flush won't do the trick.
I also have had fantastic luck with a vac brake bleed tool i bought off of amazon.
requires an air compressor, but i use it for other things than just brakes...
What are you using to bleed them? If you’ve never tried one, get a Motive pressure bleeder. You put up to a half gallon of fluid in it and it has a lid that replaces the MC lid. You pump it up with the hand pump and then go bleed your brakes by opening the bleeders one by one in the correct order. Use a piece of clear tube so you can see when the air is out. It maintains the MC at full and it’s super easy. I tried to use a vacuum one and they suck, literally. The Motive is so easy and foolproof it’s crazy.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
If you have air, i have one of these
I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WKCKW0
I actually have two, lost one replaced it and then recently found the other.
Dropped it one day, broke off the little muffler.
Works even better now!
I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WKCKW0
I actually have two, lost one replaced it and then recently found the other.
Dropped it one day, broke off the little muffler.
Works even better now!
Those are a PIA compared to a Motive. They’re more expensive but well worth it. Once you’ve used one you’ll never go back. Blow, don’t suck! I hate how those can suck air in. Plus you don’t have to keep topping off your MC. You can flush all your lines with all new fluid in minutes.If you have air, i have one of these
I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013WKCKW0
I actually have two, lost one replaced it and then recently found the other.
Dropped it one day, broke off the little muffler.
Works even better now!
gooffeyguy
Tom
Let us know in 12 years how this one is holding up
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
It actually came with a little bottle to top off the fluid or something.
I never messed with it.
The one pita is that i do have to watch the fluid level at the MC.
Usually only a problem when doing a full flush until the fluid looks perfect.
For most things, i only want to pull the old fluid out of the caliper when doing things like pads and stuff.
I also use the suction tool for sucking fluids out of things.
Ranging from my power steering fluid, to pulling the windshield washer fluid out.
And that reminds me, while the hoe is in the garage i need to remove the blue washer fluid that the PO used (Freezes)!
It has a full tank of it...
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
And while installing the valve covers yesterday.
I decided i might as well clean them up a bit.
No point to install dirty parts...
I thought for a moment about giving them a high polish, but went for a light brushed look using Fine grit 3M Crossbuffs...
Top picture you can see my AC flush tool that i used to prime the oil system...
I also replaced the oil fill tube, cap, oil level dipstick tube, and dipstick.
Went to remove the Oil Fill cap and noticed it's a one time use, lock tab breaks off!
And the dipstick would not remove for me when pulling the heads, it was a bit tweaked.
Found the local dealership had everything i needed in stock.
So i mangled the F out of the dipstick tube to get it out.
New one slid in after being well lubed.
I decided i might as well clean them up a bit.
No point to install dirty parts...
I thought for a moment about giving them a high polish, but went for a light brushed look using Fine grit 3M Crossbuffs...
Top picture you can see my AC flush tool that i used to prime the oil system...
I also replaced the oil fill tube, cap, oil level dipstick tube, and dipstick.
Went to remove the Oil Fill cap and noticed it's a one time use, lock tab breaks off!
And the dipstick would not remove for me when pulling the heads, it was a bit tweaked.
Found the local dealership had everything i needed in stock.
So i mangled the F out of the dipstick tube to get it out.
New one slid in after being well lubed.
iamdub
Full Access Member
The problem with the valve covers is they’re raw aluminum so it won’t be long before they’re oxidized again and look bad. Unless you plan on removing them occasionally and re-polishing I recommend painting them with something like VHT Wrinkle Plus. I did mine 2 years ago and they still look great, it holds up to pressure washing or a scrub brush and degreaser.And while installing the valve covers yesterday.
I decided i might as well clean them up a bit.
No point to install dirty parts...
I thought for a moment about giving them a high polish, but went for a light brushed look using Fine grit 3M Crossbuffs...
View attachment 266551
View attachment 266552
Top picture you can see my AC flush tool that i used to prime the oil system...
I also replaced the oil fill tube, cap, oil level dipstick tube, and dipstick.
Went to remove the Oil Fill cap and noticed it's a one time use, lock tab breaks off!
And the dipstick would not remove for me when pulling the heads, it was a bit tweaked.
Found the local dealership had everything i needed in stock.
So i mangled the F out of the dipstick tube to get it out.
New one slid in after being well lubed.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
And I was able to setup my catch can the other day.
Had planned to get pictures, but the baffles were pretty tight.
Might still pull it apart once more before the final install.
However, i used a stainless scrub thingy on the bottom, baffle above that.
Then while cutting out the baffles in the sheet aluminum, i noticed my scissors were nearly cutting perfect little windmill blades.
SO i made a center baffle as a little propeller.
Idea is that the air will spin when getting sucked up to the top.
And most likely it's just going to be a center baffle that flows very well...
Then another baffle above that.
then built a little stand off in the middle and riveted the assembly together.
I thought about another baffle at the top, but lazy me just cut one of the scrubs in half and stuffed it in there.
Installed a tube all the way to the bottom, nice tight fitting in the baffles, should force it to the other side etc.
It should work fine i believe.
Had planned to get pictures, but the baffles were pretty tight.
Might still pull it apart once more before the final install.
However, i used a stainless scrub thingy on the bottom, baffle above that.
Then while cutting out the baffles in the sheet aluminum, i noticed my scissors were nearly cutting perfect little windmill blades.
SO i made a center baffle as a little propeller.
Idea is that the air will spin when getting sucked up to the top.
And most likely it's just going to be a center baffle that flows very well...
Then another baffle above that.
then built a little stand off in the middle and riveted the assembly together.
I thought about another baffle at the top, but lazy me just cut one of the scrubs in half and stuffed it in there.
Installed a tube all the way to the bottom, nice tight fitting in the baffles, should force it to the other side etc.
It should work fine i believe.
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Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I thought about that, and it's what i wanted to do.
But it's freaking cold outside, hard to paint.
If i did the polish i would have also done some clearcoat to preserve it.
iamdub
Full Access Member
got the intake on!
it was full of oil...
lots of oil.
made a mess when i picked it up.
Let it drain for a bit, then took it outside to the back corner of the yard with a can of gas.
Rinsed that baby out the best i could...
stunk up the garage, i think i went cross-eyed for a bit...
once oil finally stopped leaking out i cleaned it up pretty good, removed the map sensor (Doh!) and cleaned it...
Nearly ready to run this pig!
I got barbaric with mine. I first stood it up in a tray to bleed out like a hog for a few weeks while I worked elsewhere on the engine. Then, I sprayed the inside (in each port and through TB) with foaming engine degreaser and rinsed that with the high pressure nozzle on the garden hose. Repeated until the foamy water washed out white. Then, I sprayed brake cleaner everywhere inside it, shook it around from all angles to stir it, and repeated until the liquid running out was clear. Soaked it one last time with the brake cleaner and blew it dry with the compressor. Inside was sanitary. If I remember, I'll check the manifold for oil when I do my oil change in 1,000 miles. That may be a few months, though.
