Sonofa! Hope you didn’t lose it.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Dammit.
I didn’t dismantle my airbag, just pried the old one off, cut the legs off a tiny bit, and used a blob of RTV in the center. Just line up the legs into the slots and gently push it down until it squishes into the RTV. I also bought a black vinyl sticker so the bow tie isn’t gold anymore. It didn’t go with my Esky cluster.
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
More than one way to skin el gato.
It really was easy peezy. 4 10mm nuts once it’s removed and it all comes apart easily. I pinched it back over the same way it was put on from the factory.
I will be getting the black sticker too. It does look a lot better.
looks like they finally came up with a GMC one as well, ordered one for mine
X2! **** that!
Other than disconnecting the battery and pulling the airbag that is, which I didn’t care to do. I was done in 5 minutes. Now THATS easy peezy.
R3cord303
Posse In Effect
Step dad and I borrowed a trailer and towed it with his f150 to the mechanic. Going to drop pan and change fluid, filter, and pan tomorrow. If it works it works, if not, $3K on a factory reman.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Now black out that bowtie! lol
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-W...041542&hash=item25f71bcb6f:g:iSQAAOSwB3BaDf2E
*EDIT*
Nevermind. I didn't realize I was a page behind.
R3cord303
Posse In Effect
Tahoe on the trailer. My brother was excited to see something that big get towed. Step dads ecoboost put in work
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
There is WAY too much work currently underway for me to list right now (some of it finished, some of it is just waiting to be installed once other mods/repairs are done) *but I do have photos, so their is proof...that comment is for “Rocket-Man” and the “Diver”.
Ok, so why the hell am I here? I am curious as to how your parking brake cable is routed after it leaves the firewall and is headed downwards. I’ve seen them routed more ways than one and I’m still curious as to which is the correct path of travel, and should it be routed over/under/through any parts of the frame for any specific reasons (safety, length, to prevent damage from fraying...etc).
I’ll load some photos of mine when I get back out there, but I’ll wait if you guys think it’s worth starting a new thread specifically for this discussion. If so, anyone can feel free to open one, just give me a heads up so we aren’t double tapping.
Ok, so why the hell am I here? I am curious as to how your parking brake cable is routed after it leaves the firewall and is headed downwards. I’ve seen them routed more ways than one and I’m still curious as to which is the correct path of travel, and should it be routed over/under/through any parts of the frame for any specific reasons (safety, length, to prevent damage from fraying...etc).
I’ll load some photos of mine when I get back out there, but I’ll wait if you guys think it’s worth starting a new thread specifically for this discussion. If so, anyone can feel free to open one, just give me a heads up so we aren’t double tapping.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
That's not catastrophic. You just might need to rebuild your solenoids and put some clean fluid in there, not a total rebuild or even a new converter. Course, a trans shop is going to go for the whole enchilada, always do.
that might depend on the year/model so be sure to put that info up with your pics, there were changes made in 2010 for sure, there were changes to the parking brake release mechanism that likely affect how it is routed as well.
R3cord303
Posse In Effect
Naw what happened this morning was no lockup, thats why it threw the code. What happened when i did the edit was it quit going into gear and slipped a bit. I checked fluid level, it was low. Then i added a quart and a half and it started driving again, but it was still trying to slip i think. Trailered it to mechanic, they’re going to do a service. Drop the pan, change the filter, refill. If it drives good after that, great. If not, oh well. Factory reman it is. I’ll have them take the reman trans, and do a vette servo on it. Thats a great upgrade to do. Takes 30 min.
i will see if i can keep the old one minus a core charge. Id love to rebuild and build the old one to actually take some power. Maybe put it in the S10 when it gets its LS swap. I think a 2.3L whipple would be just about perfect in that thing.
School me on the factory heated steering wheel. Are there instances where you press the button and it won’t come on?
I believe mine has stayed on (and heated up) twice (after pressing button). Most of the time the button light will illuminate for a few seconds and turn off. Other times nothing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I believe mine has stayed on (and heated up) twice (after pressing button). Most of the time the button light will illuminate for a few seconds and turn off. Other times nothing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve read of the steering wheel heating element going bad matt. Not sure on nnbs but my 19 stays on until I turn it off.
I don’t believe there is a ‘timer’ like the rear defrost. But I may be wrong.
the_tool_man
Full Access Member
Mine (2012 Denali) stays on until I turn it off with a second press of the button, or I turn off the ignition. I've kept it on for half an hour or more, and it never automatically cut off. And it doesn't automatically come on, either.
Thank you both. My 2015 stayed on as well. I wasn't sure if the GMT900 operated differently. I may pull the airbag and check the wiring. Perhaps the switch is bad.
Since there's no inventory of GMT900 heated wheels, it will certainly make me look harder at retrofitting the 2015-2017 heated wheel. Need to make sure the 15-17 airbag won't have any issues communicated with a GMT900 airbag module.
