Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Looks so good without those side mouldings.
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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Wait..... I thought you lowered it??
costco price is good regular retail is over $200
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
I like Costco. Before Covid I used to go a lot. Now I can’t be bothered with the line to pay that wraps around the entire store and takes hours to leave.
it was like that here at first now you can be in & out in nothing flat, they added like twice as many checkout stands rare to see even 3 people in a line. luckily the tire department is separate anyway.
08z71bgm
Full Access Member
I wish that’s how it is here. It’s insane. I feel like I should get my membership fee back. Barely went into the store since this shit happened.
Drok
Full Access Member
Yup one of the first things i did was to remove them and debadge
if you mean that by taking out the level, then yes it was lowered haha. Im just gonna drop the rear a bit and call it good. I keep finding more rust and it’s depressing me ughh haha
The 20s with the duratracs turned into vibratracs and i couldn’t deal with it so theyre off until i get new tires
Derick
Full Access Member
No, that's the weird thing...it kinda worked fine and got progressively worse until just a month or two ago when it gave me the SERVICE PARK ASSIST message.
Derick
Full Access Member
That's why I go to sams club. Their app is awesome with the scan n go feature. Scan while you shop, swipe to check out, skip the lines. I dont understand why people sit there in lines anymore.
It’s been a full work week in and out of the Suburban at varied speeds and external noise sources. The full length seal on the leading edge of each rear door has made a noticeable difference in noise intrusion and “solidifying” the union of the doors to the vehicle.
Certainly a worthwhile project for the $15 cost.
I believe time spent in the sun did help the doors and seal form to each other as well.
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gooffeyguy
Tom
Good to hear. I'm probably going to order this.
Curious as to why the factory didn't do it though. I wonder if its something like in cold climates it makes the door harder to open when its frozen shut, causing more broken handles from pulling on it.... Lol
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08z71bgm
Full Access Member
The frozen door stuck might be the reason. Have had that many times.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I'd say just to save a few pennies on each vehicle.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Yeah, and with more seal it will have more surface contact to freeze.
Usually when my doors have gotten hard to open due to freezing, I have a de-ice spray I spray around the seams that works pretty good.
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I don’t know of any vehicles that have 2 door seals. The inside one is the seal, the outside is just an appearance trim. If you’re hearing noise through the interior seal, it might not be sealing right. And yes one seal freezing shut is bad enough, with 2 of them...good luck.
No I got it from the store owner........I work for DoD, so I can not partake in illegal shit.
Bought it for $175 during lunch yesterday, sold today for $450. Nothing like some fast easy money
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gooffeyguy
Tom
Is that one of those "R2" type coolers (round cylinder looks like R2-D2 from Star Wars)?
Many years ago, I worked for a company that made those type coolers for promotional store displays.
Usually, stores don't "buy" them, but are given to by their distributors to help advertise/promote their product.
Good that both you and the store owner made money off it
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gooffeyguy
Tom
I hooked up and pulled my 18' tandem axle trailer out from behind the garage and a few miles to a pressure wash stall to clean it up. This is the first time I've actually used the Denali to pull the trailer.
The brake controller I installed a while ago connected and worked fine.
The Denali pulled it like there was nothing back there, except for the DIC notification of the Parking Assist System being Deactivated, see owners manual (I had it turned off via the dash button)....lol
I used a 8" drop drawbar that worked great for my trailer. I noticed about a minute after I lowered the trailer on the ball, while I was hooking up the chains and 7-pin wire harness, the air compressor came on for a bit and adjusted the rear shocks.
The drawbar I have is a Convert-a-Ball brand Cushioned mount. It's filled with rubber or something around where the hitch pin goes through and is supposed to help with it banging around when starting or stopping. It's rated at like 10k lbs and 2k lbs max tongue weight. It's the first time I used one of these, and it worked great and everything was nice and smooth and quiet.
The brake controller I installed a while ago connected and worked fine.
The Denali pulled it like there was nothing back there, except for the DIC notification of the Parking Assist System being Deactivated, see owners manual (I had it turned off via the dash button)....lol
I used a 8" drop drawbar that worked great for my trailer. I noticed about a minute after I lowered the trailer on the ball, while I was hooking up the chains and 7-pin wire harness, the air compressor came on for a bit and adjusted the rear shocks.
The drawbar I have is a Convert-a-Ball brand Cushioned mount. It's filled with rubber or something around where the hitch pin goes through and is supposed to help with it banging around when starting or stopping. It's rated at like 10k lbs and 2k lbs max tongue weight. It's the first time I used one of these, and it worked great and everything was nice and smooth and quiet.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I love auto leveling.I hooked up and pulled my 18' tandem axle trailer out from behind the garage and a few miles to a pressure wash stall to clean it up. This is the first time I've actually used the Denali to pull the trailer.
The brake controller I installed a while ago connected and worked fine.
The Denali pulled it like there was nothing back there, except for the DIC notification of the Parking Assist System being Deactivated, see owners manual (I had it turned off via the dash button)....lol
I used a 8" drop drawbar that worked great for my trailer. I noticed about a minute after I lowered the trailer on the ball, while I was hooking up the chains and 7-pin wire harness, the air compressor came on for a bit and adjusted the rear shocks.
The drawbar I have is a Convert-a-Ball brand Cushioned mount. It's filled with rubber or something around where the hitch pin goes through and is supposed to help with it banging around when starting or stopping. It's rated at like 10k lbs and 2k lbs max tongue weight. It's the first time I used one of these, and it worked great and everything was nice and smooth and quiet.
I have on of those converta-ball things on one of my hitches..... I only use it around town.... screw thing always feels loose... maybe mine is plain wore outI hooked up and pulled my 18' tandem axle trailer out from behind the garage and a few miles to a pressure wash stall to clean it up. This is the first time I've actually used the Denali to pull the trailer.
The brake controller I installed a while ago connected and worked fine.
The Denali pulled it like there was nothing back there, except for the DIC notification of the Parking Assist System being Deactivated, see owners manual (I had it turned off via the dash button)....lol
I used a 8" drop drawbar that worked great for my trailer. I noticed about a minute after I lowered the trailer on the ball, while I was hooking up the chains and 7-pin wire harness, the air compressor came on for a bit and adjusted the rear shocks.
The drawbar I have is a Convert-a-Ball brand Cushioned mount. It's filled with rubber or something around where the hitch pin goes through and is supposed to help with it banging around when starting or stopping. It's rated at like 10k lbs and 2k lbs max tongue weight. It's the first time I used one of these, and it worked great and everything was nice and smooth and quiet.
